My most recent stalling have happened between 30 and 40 mph while accelerating. It will hesitate for a few seconds and refuse to accelerate any further then stall out. I currently have it at the dealership for the third time in two weeks.

I have refused to pick it up until they can diagnose and positively fix the problem. If they cannot I no longer want to own the vehicle.

 

My Hemi stalled while at operating temp and low speed with no warning. There were no dash lights when it stalled or any indication the engine had quit, except the RPM dropped off and the steering was very hard, as well as the brakes to operate. I read here on the forum about the EGR valve and changed the EGR valve, which cost $40.00 and it only took about 40 min to change. It fixed the problem.

History: I noticed over the past couple of years my RMP had went from 650 to 525 very slowly, so I figured it was time to do a tune-up. I think now that the EGR valve was starting to fail over the last two years, and it finally got to the point of no return.

I'm an old race guy from years past I know what a bad EGR valve can do, so it made since, and it worked. With all the electronics on trucks and cars now days, anytime there is a problem without having thousands of dollars of test equipment it can be a most anything. We consumers have to stick together so we don’t get ripped off... Thanks to all that post!!!

 

ONe thing the dealers or dodge will not tell you is that the in tank fuel pump uses the fuel to keep it cool while operating. If you let your tank get down past 1/4 of a tank the only thing keep it cool is the sloshing fuel. It will shorten the life of the pump by half if not more. So, one thing you can do is make sure you keep a little more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel to keep the pump under the fuel and keep it cool.

 

ok here is the deal, while driving down the road my truck died, dash lights, radio,all electronics still working and it wont start back up.it will turn but wont start.it threw 3 codes 2110,2111,2106 all pertaining to throttle actuator control system.i replaced the throttle body and that cleared my codes.i put a new cam pos sensor,and crank pos sensor.i also changed plugs and new battery.i have 50 pounds of fuel pressure a the rail and with a plug tester determined i have spark.still will not start.ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!thanks in advance

 

It looks like you have done a lot of work so far, I guess I would suggest that you go back to the old trouble shooting. 1. Are you getting spark?, 2. Are you getting fuel? 3. Are you getting air? From what you have indicated you have plenty of fuel pressure but are the injectors being opened? Check the exhaust while you are cranking it and see if you can smell fuel, if not the injectors may not be getting the power to open. If you are getting fuel, I guess what left is spark. If you are not getting any spark then the other two don't matter. It would seem that if it does not even try to start and you are getting fuel, I would make sure you are getting some power to the plugs. Even if the plugs are getting power at the wrong time it should try to start or at least get some sort of back fire. I'm sorry i'm not to much help, but if you ensure you have the three basic things to make it run you can go from there to trouble shoot... And of course the dreaded ECM who knows... Good luck and please post what you finally do it get it running... Interesting...