hey guys, does anybody have good or bad experiences with using a 2WD truck at the boat ramp? Have been thinking of buying a 20ft boat (2500lbs dryweight without the trailer) but not sure if my 2WD can handle it at the ramp.

 

I launch a 21' pntoon all the time , never had a problem. Even with the 321 gears.

 

I have a 21ft. Caliber 1 and launch it on my launch ramp (which is steeper than most) all the time. My truck does have LS 3.92's, but I used to launch the same boat with my 03 4.7L with 3.55's and open diff. you can always release a little air out of the rear tires for a little extra bite on the ramp.

What it comes down to is taking note of the condition of the ramp. Make sure that the ramp isn't covered in moss and if it is, don't back the rear tires down into the water, get the boat as far down into the water as you can, and then have a buddy help you pull the boat off of the trailer. This will save you from having to ask someone to pull your truck out of the lake/river.

 

I have a 21 foot center console bay boat that is nearly identical to the weight you've mentioned. I just recently dropped it in at a very steep launch and had no issues whatsoever with my 2011 Laramie (hemi of-course), 2wd, 3.55 rear axle. My prior truck was an 02 Dodge 1500, 2wd, 4.7L, don't remember gear ratio on axle but I never had any issues with it either. My fishing partner & I are always laughing about how many others seem to struggle at this particular launch as it is very steep. We were discussing this very topic on our first fishing trip with my new wheels hoping that I wouldn't be joining the comedy club. I was smiling in the end as I went in and out without any wheel spin at all. We have seen many other trucks pulling boats of similar size having nothing but problems. I believe some of it is just poor weight distribution. A "dumb" driver at the wheel probably makes a big difference as well.

 

only if the ramp is wet, or if you dip the rear wheels in. My uncle says his next truck is gonna be 4wd for the specific reason. He said one time he got the rear wheels too far in and the truck slid a foot or so into the water and he had to have another guy pull him out. other than that I think your fine

 

I launch a 19ft bayliner (3000lbs+) or a 21ft pontoon 3-4 times a week in the summer. Never had a need for 4wd.

 

If you are using primarily state, county maintained or commercial ramps then 95% of the time you you'd be just fine. You just gotta look at the ramp and if it's iffy, find another spot to put in. Also, in some of the remote spots in Ga, they have clay ramps which can be iffy even with a 4x4.
I fished bass tourneys heavily from the early '90s till about 2004, at both the club and tour levels and I've seen it all. Been more than once I've had to hook up to the front of someone's truck or suv to give a pull so they could make it up a ramp. I've even had to have a guy re-float the boat and take off my trailer and hook his up to pull his boat out, then swap back in the parking lot twice.

Thing you gotta watch out for that's not as obvious as a moss slicked or poor ramp is a drop off at the end of the ramp, especially in low water conditions, often there is pure soft muck at the end of the ramps and if your rear tires drop off into that, you are f*cked...

 

Thanks for the replies. Regarding weight distribution, does the height of the hitch have anything to do with this? Any other way of increasing the tonque weight?

 

Ball height will play a part in tongue weight, but you should always adjust ball height to make the trailer sit dead level. The proper way to adjust tongue weight is to move the weight of what's on the trailer forward or back.

On a bunk trailer (which is all I've ever had on my 3 different bass boats), the bunks are adjustable either forward or back by simply loosening a few bolts. This will move the weight either backwards, decreasing tongue weight or forward, increasing it. On roller trailers, the rollers are adjustable in much the same way.

Rule of thumb is for every 1" you move the boat you will effect tongue weight by 15 lbs. Remember on a bunk trailer to never move the rear of the bunks more than about 6-8" from the transom. Also remember to move the bow support (the roller the winch rope goes under) accordingly so the bow rests firmly against it.

Never try to adjust the trailer with the boat on it.

Usually, if the boat/motor/trailer was bought together as a package (as all of mine were) they are set up optimally at the factory...

 

My dad has a 6 cyclinder stick shift ram with 1 pump chump to the rear and he's used it to pull out my boat/trailer at the ramp numerous times with NO PROBLEMS! My boat + trailer weight in right aroud 5,000 lbs

On a side note the ramp is coregated/ridged concrete, but it does get VERY SLIMY from algae when the rear tires get into the water (which they were).

I've also pulled my boat out about 60 times with the rear tires completely buried in the water at that same ramp in 2 wheel drive with no problems.

In the end it all depends on the ramp and how well it has been maintained. I know for a SURE FACT that some of the places I've been would stop a 2x4 dead in it's tracks! Mostly consisting of muddy or rocky surfaces and extremely steep launch angles

w00t!