MDS Light - How to
Yes. There are one of four that we can use.
Cyl -1 BR/WHT
Cyl -2 BR/LB
Cyl -3 BR/DG
Cyl -4 BR/OR
Each of these refers to a MDS solenoid. They should be in the same spot as the blue wire mentioned. Once I find one, I will edit the original post.
It is too cold to go outside right now and check. Maybe this afternoon.
Cyl -1 BR/WHT
Cyl -2 BR/LB
Cyl -3 BR/DG
Cyl -4 BR/OR
Each of these refers to a MDS solenoid. They should be in the same spot as the blue wire mentioned. Once I find one, I will edit the original post.
It is too cold to go outside right now and check. Maybe this afternoon.
Okay if I don't have the light is my truck still going into 4 cylinders under it's ideal conditions just I do not have a light or not to tell me when it is working or not. I did notice on the highway the other day that at 65 mph my tach was at 1100 so I would assume that is a good thing. My truck is rated on the highway only 6 miles an hour less that a honda fit and look how much more vehicle I have and well Iam lucky if I put 10000KM's a year so gas is not a worry. My truck is advertised as having MDS I thought a light would come one and tell me when it is in 4 not when in 8 that is backwards to all the other buttons which you would think pushing them turns stuff on but it really turns stufff off.
stand by for updated info. The wire which i thought was to the mds was actually for the vct.
if you do this and break something, or if any information posted is wrong, it is not my fault.
i got under the hood finally and tried the 2006+ mds light mod. It does not work, the wires must be different. After tracing the some wires, i found that there is a harness that runs underneath the intake manifold and into one of the mds harnesses. I think it is a lifter controller??
I just took a solid core wire and pushed it into the back side of the connector. I know this is not the preferred method, but it allows me to take it off when i want to go to the dealer for something. I don't want them to ask me any questions.
Check out post #16 to see the voltage. When mds is off, meaning running on all 8 cylinders, it runs 6 volts. When mds is on, there is .3 volts.
First. Loosen the worm clamp and pull off the intake tube.

second. Slide the red button out and then press down the black tab shown by the yellow arrow and pull the connector from the sensor. Then, loosen the worm clamp and remove the intake tube and set aside.

third. Pull off the engine cover. It just pops off, there are no screws or bolts. Then, find the blue wire in the connector shown. The wire goes underneath the intake manifold into one of the mds connectors. I pushed a solid wire into the connector shown, on the back where the blue wire enters it. I did not solder or cut anything. I want this to be easily removable.

this is a picture of the wire in the connector.

fourth. I drilled a small hole and put an led in there. I wired one side to the led and grounded the other side. This panel pops out after the three screws are removed.

i ran the wire through the nipple underneath where the big bundle of wires goes through the firewall. I poked a small hole with my knife.

i grounded the led with this bolt.

here is a quick video. The light comes on when on all 8, it is off when on mds is on.

lastly, good luck working on this thing.

if you do this and break something, or if any information posted is wrong, it is not my fault.
i got under the hood finally and tried the 2006+ mds light mod. It does not work, the wires must be different. After tracing the some wires, i found that there is a harness that runs underneath the intake manifold and into one of the mds harnesses. I think it is a lifter controller??
I just took a solid core wire and pushed it into the back side of the connector. I know this is not the preferred method, but it allows me to take it off when i want to go to the dealer for something. I don't want them to ask me any questions.
Check out post #16 to see the voltage. When mds is off, meaning running on all 8 cylinders, it runs 6 volts. When mds is on, there is .3 volts.
First. Loosen the worm clamp and pull off the intake tube.

second. Slide the red button out and then press down the black tab shown by the yellow arrow and pull the connector from the sensor. Then, loosen the worm clamp and remove the intake tube and set aside.

third. Pull off the engine cover. It just pops off, there are no screws or bolts. Then, find the blue wire in the connector shown. The wire goes underneath the intake manifold into one of the mds connectors. I pushed a solid wire into the connector shown, on the back where the blue wire enters it. I did not solder or cut anything. I want this to be easily removable.

this is a picture of the wire in the connector.

fourth. I drilled a small hole and put an led in there. I wired one side to the led and grounded the other side. This panel pops out after the three screws are removed.

i ran the wire through the nipple underneath where the big bundle of wires goes through the firewall. I poked a small hole with my knife.

i grounded the led with this bolt.

here is a quick video. The light comes on when on all 8, it is off when on mds is on.

lastly, good luck working on this thing.

Because they brag about the mileage on TV and well the Hemi is rated 26 on the highway at least my 09 crew cab RAM 1500 sticker says so, now when they advertise the FIT which is spelled wrong should be **** but anyway they only get like 6 more mpg than a 390 HP HEMI. I don't understand why anyone fears the HEMI mileage. JUst drive normal, if you put someone in one hard to get them out or not sell it to them I bet. I notice the dealerships around here they move them fast.
Because they brag about the mileage on TV and well the Hemi is rated 26 on the highway at least my 09 crew cab RAM 1500 sticker says so, now when they advertise the FIT which is spelled wrong should be **** but anyway they only get like 6 more mpg than a 390 HP HEMI. I don't understand why anyone fears the HEMI mileage. JUst drive normal, if you put someone in one hard to get them out or not sell it to them I bet. I notice the dealerships around here they move them fast.
This is for my 09 Dodge with HEMI I can only scan part at a time so here is the part that you need to see!!! So they may not get that mileage where you live but here they put a sticker that says what is says. So read it and weep...Mine is getting an average between city and expressway....22.3, 22.4 mostly. Now all you have to do to mess that up is let me drive then it starts getting crappy mileage for a while till my wifes foot resets the computer. She really only needs a lawn mower engine. Ihave heard her make the exhaust make it's growl when she is behind on her way to work,but usually she drives for mileage since we had an R/T Durango...360 CID and never over 19 mpg.
Last edited by 72combo; May 8, 2009 at 12:59 AM.



