Thank you, I did not want to bother. Common sense, warranty only covers everyday normal driving and they can prove it all, with the black box, mainly for police and insurance companies. I don't know if this RAM has it but another car that was totalled in an accident the "black box" told how fast the car was going at the time of accident, if the brakes were applied, how hard, direction of wheels turning. Part of this is for the new generation airbags so they don't go off right away, even the fireman disconnected the negative because the air bags didn't go off, he figured he would save use some money but the insurance wrote it off anyway. Now this black box I was told is in most car by a cop...not sure if it is true or not but if so, I am sure that Chrysler might have issue with you bringing your car to 107mph 3 times a week for 4 weeks. 12 pulls on a dyno. Unless I was getting more than just an cai let them go rent a truck and try it. I had a CAI on my Durango R/T when I went in for oil changes I asked the service manager would this thing void my warranty. He said only if they can prove that it caused the problem and unless you wanna take on their lawyers, that was when I found out about some vehicles with data recorders, basically newer motors....my car was a Sebring with 2.5 HO and a 6 speed auto slap stick, Very fast car, I think it could hang with the SRT6 Crossfire.

 

so if your at the drags alone... and you make a pass to test your truck out.. is that considered racing?

 

By their definition I would say Yes. A timed event (drag or race track) is considered racing. It's very similar to what a Police officer can charge you with: If you are "racing" with another vehicle on the street he/she can charge you with that and reckless driving, etc. If you are just gunning it off the line and there is no car to be considering racing against, they can still charge you with "display of speed" and reckless driving, etc. Ask the Mitsubishi Evo and Subaru STI guys about how the manufacturer handles warranty issues in such situations.

 

how long do you need to have your batter disconnected to reset the computer. I had no clue that this had to be done and have been driving for a few hundred miles with it the way it was before the cai install

 

I had mine undone for 15 minutes and it worked. I would try it quickly and see if it works. If not, wait the 15 minutes.

 

how do you know if it worked? Does anythingelse reset? I did mine for 15 or so today radio and everythingelse stayed programmed. My mpg was crazy though. I have only put about 25 miles on since the reset. How long untill it gets staightened out?

 

It only really takes a few minutes for the computer to adjust for the increased airflow after you pull the battery cable. You just need to let it idle for a few minutes after you start it up. The main reasons to pull the battery cable are to allow the computer to quickly adjust to increased airflow and prevent any CEL's or MIL's, but if you didn't pull the cable it will just take your truck longer to adjust to the increased airflow.

 

You won't get CEL lights for doing an intake swap unless the sensors are damaged.

The truck isn't learning much at idle...its a default setting and there isnt much better airflow for it to need to learn. The battery can either be disconnected for about 15 minutes then reconnected or it can be "hot driven" without disconnecting the battery. After the install the truck should be driven a bit normally then a little bit more aggressively for the truck to actually learn the new set-up. There is no magic time number for this to happen. I would advise anyone to drive the truck for the entire day and just mess with it a bit but start off how you drive normally. For it to learn it has to go through the entire power band within reason. You will not be able to tell if the truck is doing this, it just is. Also, I guarantee that if the CAI is only giving a few HP you will not notice it anyway....but you will hear the noise difference and relate noise with performance. A dyno is always recommended to see the results..otherwise there would be no need to dyno anything...it would all be "I can feel the extra power and its about 15hp" crap guesswork. A dyno is not something that can void your warranty if the operator performed it correctly. If the test ruins your vehicle it would be the burden of the dealer to find the cause and if the cause is NOT part failure but abuse then they can claim owners fault. (Refer to the Magnuson-Moss Act)

 

I have seen quite a few guys get CEL's when they didn't do the battery cable disconnect (no sensors damaged), but plenty of people have installed intakes w/o the battery disconnect and never gotten one, who knows why. I didn't mean for it to sound like the truck was completely used to the intake after a battery disconnect and brief idle, but just that is kind of like an SOP after an intake install. Most intake install instructions recommend the battery disconnect, I assume b/c it helps the truck adjust to the added airflow more readily. We're all still waiting on dyno #'s and intakes from the likes of AEM and K&N but considering how little restriction is in the 09 hemi intake they may be even lower than the gains on 3rd gen intakes.

 

Hmmm....I've never seen one person throw a CEL for this, but, I haven't seen everyone's install either.

I wouldn't mine getting some extra power outta the intake but I would be happy just to get that ugly stock set-up out anyway. I am also lookin gto some friends at a Carbon Fiber company to replace the engine cover with a nicer Carbon Unit. I think I'll post about it after I confirm if they can do it. (Seibon Carbon) I had a GT Style hood made for the SRT-4 that went to market.