The recommended differential service interval for Dodge trucks have varied over the years. Prior to the 4th gen Rams it was every 24,000 miles for severe service, at least as far back as 2002. My older Dodge D-series truck service manuals indicate differential service at 36,000 miles for "normal service, and 18,000 miles for severe service (D/W100 - 400). Dakota, which uses the 8.25 axle, as well as the 9.25 used in Rams, specifies severe differential service every 12,000 miles.

The Dana units used in Rams, as well as the very similiar Dana's used in GMs, have a reputation for a higher problem/failure rate. My personal experience is I've never seen or heard from an owner of a diff or axle failure on a unit that had its prescribed service. I drove a 2003 Dakota with a 9.25 inch LSD dfifferential to 151,000 miles without any problem at all. I changed the differential fluid every 25,000 miles and carried loads approximately 4% of those miles.

Since I've seen Fords, Titans, and even a couple of Tundras with differential problems or failures, I think this is one area that is taken for granted by owners way too much. I'll continue to be changing fluid every 25,000 miles at least.

Regards,
Dusty

 

Dusty, thought I'd share the noise situation. The 2010 Ram 1500 ST, 3.55 is at the dealers having the pinion and ring gear replaced. Mileage is 14.5k. When I heard what they needed to do to repair the problem I asked what it would cost to put in a LSD. I was amazed to hear them say $1400--mostly for parts. I said "nevermind". I had been pretty happy with this dealership, but, wow... find it hard to believe how hard they were stepping on the cost of sliding in an LSD.
Just mentioning this as a data point.
Regards,
RC

 

Well, I believe the clutch pack assembly is around $600US. I don't know what the labor hours are, but when you figure that the ring gear must be removed from the old differential carrier, side bearings removed, and the many reassembly steps, I actually think thats a bargain.

My main worry is the critical nature of the set-ups and adjustments. No offense intended to auto technicians in general, but just like anything else some are more fussy and some are more impatient than others.

Did they tell you what parts needed to be replaced?

Best regards,
Dusty
2010 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 545RFE, 3.92 LSD, dual exhaust, 20” wheels

 

I picked up the truck yesterday. They did a pretty complete rebuild. Pinion, ring gear, bearings, seals. And yes, I'm concerned about the quality of the work, but not much can be done about that, except see how things play out over the next few years.

 

One of the reasons I went with a slightly used Dodge Ram was the warranty.
"
<LI class=ques>How do I know if I’m covered by the new Chrysler 5-Year /100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty?You are covered if you are the registered vehicle owner – retail or lease – in U.S., Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. This applies to 2010 model year vehicles.
<LI class=ques>When does the coverage begin and for how long does this powertrain warranty last?The powertrain limited warranty lasts for up to 5 years or 100,000 miles on the odometer, whichever occurs first, calculated from the start of the Basic Limited Warranty.
<LI class=ques>What does the new 5-Year / 100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty include?The powertrain limited warranty covers the cost of all parts and labor needed to repair a covered powertrain component – engine, transmission and drive system – on most new Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep® brand vehicles.
<LI class=ques>What powertrain parts and components are covered?Gasoline engine, transmission and drive systems (FWD, AWD, RWD or 4WD).
<LI class=ques>Are any Chrysler vehicles excluded?Vehicles that are not covered under the new 5-Year / 100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty include Sprinter models and Ram Chassis Cab vehicles.
<LI class=ques>Is towing included in the new 5-Year / 100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty?The powertrain limited warranty covers the cost of towing your vehicle to the nearest authorized Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep® dealer if your vehicle cannot be driven because a covered powertrain component has failed during the coverage period.
<LI class=ques>How does a customer transfer the powertrain warranty?There is no transfer required.
<LI class=ques>Why has Chrysler decided to make this change?Our customers are telling us they prefer a transferable 5-year / 100,000-mile no hassle powertrain limited warranty. Our warranty programs exemplify our investment in powertrain and our commitment to improved quality on all our vehicles. Chrysler stands behind our products.
<LI class=ques>What is different from your Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty to the new 5-Year / 100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty?The lifetime warranty was not transferable and towing was not available. In order to maintain the lifetime coverage every, a dealer must perform a powertrain inspection every five years. The new 5-Year / 100,000-Mile powertrain warranty balance transfers with the vehicle, includes towing and no powertrain inspections are required to continue coverage.
<LI class=ques>How does your 5-Year / 100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty coverage compare to your competitors?Our competitors that offer a longer-term powertrain warranty – Hyundai, Kia and Mitsubishi – do not offer a transferable warranty. Ford offers a 5-year/60,000 mile transferable powertrain warranty."

Just for a comparison, here's my warranty experience with BMW:

I bought a Z4 Mcoupe a couple of years ago. Great car, and problem free. The seller advertised the car as having an extended BMW warranty. Prior to purchase I called BMW and went over the terms of the extended warranty, which was basically a CPO warranty, and their records showed it was purchased by the Seller. Upon purchase, I called BMWNA and told them of the purchase for their records and warranty.
A year or so later I called BMWNA, as my original factory warranty was about to expire, and asked a few questions about the extended warranty.
At that point they informed me that the extended warranty was no longer in affect, as I had not had it transferred to my name in the proper time period. I made several calls and was given a couple of answers re the transfer of warranty procedure that I failed to follow. Basically, at first their response was I failed to notify them in the proper alloted time. I pointed out I called within five days to transfer the notice of ownership to me from the original buyer, and just because I didn't say the magic words "transfer the extended warranty to me", I voided the warranty. Then, after another one or two calls I was told that I should have notified the original dealership that sold the new car to the fellow I purchased it from and it wasn't BMW's fault that I didn't do this (a sane and ration person would have expected BMW to state the procedure for transferring extended warranties to a potential buyer when they called in inquire about the nature and scope of the extended warranty). I was also told (to paraphase as I didn't record the call) " that you shouldn't have bought a used car from a private party, but from a dealer instead, you got what you deserved". When I asked for the original dealer's phone number so I could call them, BMW gave me the wrong number/ dealer. At that point I was so angry, I shelved the whole thing. The funny part is the car is low mileage and has never had an issue and in all probability will never need the extended warranty.
Needless to say, I have little use for BMWNA

Apples to oranges, re warranty and attitude....and, I won't even begin to talk about the difference in pricing for labor and parts, other than to say the oil service and cabin filter change at 30,000 is $300, oil for the M engine is over $12 qt!

 

Thank you for the very informative thread.
I plan on using Redline fluids for my front and rear differential changes (75w90 and 75w140) and also Redline friction modifier.
However I have the 4WD Auto transfer case and to my understanding there is no aftermarket viable fluid for that. Closest I could find is http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=53&pcid=9
Is it worth going with the OEM Blue ATF fluid, or should I try the redline?

Thanks

 

With the exception of motor oils, in general my philosophy is to stick with the manufacturer recommended fluids since usually the recipe is taylored to the design or materials. Sometimes claims of superiority are not really backed up by documented evidence.

Not being familiar with Redline products, I don't know if they supply a specifcation sheet for their product. If they do you could compare it to the factory fluid and make an intelligent decision based on that.

Keep in mind that where ever ATF+ is specified that it's a proprietary fluid. No one else can make the same exact recipe without obtaining a license from Chrysler. ATF+4 contains very specific compounds and ingredients and is very unique.

ATF+4 Description

Developed by the Lubrizol Corporation and currently manufactured by Havoline, Chrysler Type 9602 or ATF+4 is a specially formulated fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid that incorporates a very high viscosity index (VHVI) base stock and contains a unique and industry exclusive high-strength additive package. This transmission fluid is engineered to be a "fill-for-life" fluid under normal driving conditions with a minimum practical end life of 150,000 miles. Designed exclusively for DaimlerChrysler automatic transmissions, it is also recommended for certain manual transmissions and all 1999 and newer Chrysler power steering systems. ATF+4 is fully compatible with all transmission applications where Type 7176 fluids (ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3) have previously been specified.

Through the use of its patented additive package ATF+4 will maintain the original shift quality of all Chrysler designed automatic transmissions. It contains superior properties for low temperature operation to -55 degrees F, and maintains a high viscosity index above 350 F. ATF+4 produces superior wear and rust prevention qualities especially when compared to Dexron-Mercon or aftermarket synthetic fluids. ATF+4 controls oxidation to a much higher degree than Dexron-Mercon series fluids and represents a notable improvement over ATF+3.

ATF+4 reduces the effects of moisture and will practically eliminate the formation of deposits in otherwise healthy transmissions. Its exclusive friction modifier composition also controls friction and maintains the minimum surface loss of transmission clutches. ATF+4 contains the maximum anti-foaming characteristics of any currently marketed ATF.

ATF+ series automatic transmission fluids must be operated in a ATF+ pure operating environment and are highly susceptible to chemical destabilization from non-ATF+ automatic transmission fluids. Automatic transmissions designed and manufactured by Chrysler Corporation or DaimlerChrysler using ATF+3 may use ATF+4, either as a supplement or for full replenishment.

(end of brief)

The typical density (viscosity) of SAE graded ATF is; 850 kg/m3 15 centigrade, 820 kg/m3 100 C, and 788 kg/m3 150 C. These values are typical and will vary from one manufacturer fluid to another. I can not find a SAE established viscosity range for any ATF. The above values are NLGI (National Lubricant and Grease Institute) figures for Dexron-Mercon type II, which is now obsolete.



Regards,
Dusty
2010 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 545RFE, 3.92 LSD, dual exhaust, 20” wheels

 

Wow, Im glad to hear I dont have to change my AT fluid anytime soon, I will be going with the Mopar ATF+4 for my transfer case also. But I see no reason to stick with the diff fluids.

 

Another article regarding ATF-4

http://www.centerforqa.com/home.html

Jay

 

I re-read Dusty's post, and according to
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=53&pcid=9
It satisfies the Chrysler Type 9602 requirements