Lube, type, frequency, tips on the job, post em up!

 

I usually get it done by someone who can suck the oil out that way if I have not leaks, I won't get any! for fun one time after the suck job I challenged them, I figured a lot of dirt still in there, nope was clean as a whistle so no I have confidence, I am told the transfer case can be done like this too?

 

At 18 K, you are suppose to change the rear diff. Any DIY'ers out there?

 

For 2010 Ram 1500s, there essentially is no required maintenance on the differentials for the first 150,000 miles in light-duty service. If used in Severe Service, then the fluids should be changed every 18,000 miles.


Severe Service is defined by Chrysler as meeting any one of the following:

• Day or night temperatures are below 32 degrees F
• More than 25% stop and go driving
• Extensive engine idling
• Intermittent short trips of 10 miles or less
• More than 50% of driving is at sustained high speeds (above 55 MPH) during ambient temperatures of 90 degrees F or higher
• Trailer towing
• Vehicle is used in commercial applications (Taxi, Police, or delivery service)
• Operation in off-road or dusty environments
• Operation with E-85 fuels

NOTE: Items in blue pertain to differential service

The Severe Service schedule for axle fluid change is every 18,000 miles.

The recommended fluid is Chrysler 75W-140 Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant (MS-8985), part number 04874469.

If vehicle has a limited slip differential, it requires 4 oz. of Mopar Limited Slip Additive/Friction Modifier (MS-10111), part number 04318060AB.

Although most shops (including dealers) will remove the differential fill plug and draw the old fluid out, Chrysler recommends that the differential cover be removed when changing the lubricant. Suction techniques will not completely remove all of the fluid. Also, at each fluid change the cover should be removed to clean off the magnet that's glued to the bottom of the differential case and inspect for and remove other debris.

When reinstalling the differential cover, use Chrysler/Mopar Engine & Gear Sealant RTV (MS-GF44C), part number 82300234.

Here's my very **** maintenance process:

1. Drive vehicle >10 miles to heat up the differential fluid.
2. If possible, raise entire rear differential and axle assembly so that both rear wheels are off the ground on a level surface. WARNING: Place safety jacks under the axle tubes while working under the vehicle.
3. Place a thoroughly clean catch pan under the differential.
4. Loosen all differential cover bolts, and remove all but the two top most bolts.
5. Using a very thin tool (putty knife), insert the tool between the very bottom of the differential cover and the housing to break the RTV seal until fluid begins to flow out of the housing. Some prying force may be required to pull the cover away from the housing slightly.
6. After all the fluid has been drained, remove any remaining bolts and remove the differential cover.
7. Using a scrapping tool and/or wire brush, remove all old sealant from the cover mating surface on the housing.
8. Using a lint free cloth, remove any remaining fluid from the bottom of the housing. Inspect the magnet at the bottom of the housing for excessive signs of debris.
9. Check the condition of the old fluid for signs of excessive moisture or water. If condition exists, check for a obstructed differential vent tube.
10. Inspect the differential components for damage (ring, pinion, side gears).
11. Using inexpensive spray cans (4) of carburetor cleaner, flush as much of the old fluid and limited slip clutch material out of the housing. Rotate the ring gear to access the side gear carrier and all ring teeth. NOTE: You cannot over clean the inside of the differential and housing.
12. Once clean to your satisfaction, allow the carburetor cleaner solvent to completely evaporate.
13. Remove all sealant material from the differential cover and soap and water clean.
14. Using the Chrysler/Mopar Engine & Gear Sealant RTV, apply a sufficient amount around the perimeter of the cover in the area that will contact the cover mounting face on the housing. Spread the sealant across the cover surface to ensure a uniform coating. Allow the sealant to set for ten to fifteen minutes at 70 degrees F or until sealant becomes tacky.
15. Reinstall differential cover and reinstall cover attaching bolts. CAUTION: Avoid getting sealant in to the cover mounting holes.
16. Tighten cover bolts to 30 ft. lbs.
17. Allow sealant to cure for 10-20 minutes at 70 degrees F.
18. Remove differential cover fill plug.
19. If limited slip differential, install 4 ounces of Chrysler Friction Modifier in to housing.
20. Install 2.90 quarts of Chrysler 75W-140 Axle Lubricant.
21. Reinstall cover plug and lower vehicle.
22. Test drive and inspect for leaks.

Other Notes

I have found that using competitive RTV sealants on differential covers can be problematic. Since I've started to use the Mopar sealant I have never had a problem with leaks. The factory sealant is usually red in color; the Mopar field product is gray. I use the Mopar stuff even if its a Ford or Chevy. It is a special formula that withstands gear oils and friction modifiers.

Take note of the amount of metal debris in the fluid. Differential fluid will always exhibit some debris. Like most makes, Mopars seem to exhibit a lot at the first change. You shouldn't see gear chips or large chunks of bearing material. Check for pieces or whole clutch locking clips on the magnet (limited slip only).

If limited slip you'll notice a gray coating on all of the differential parts. This is clutch material and it's sacrificial, meaning the clutches are always losing some of it. A thin coating is normal at 25,000 miles.

I use the 75W-140 synthetic Mopar fluid only. Yes, it's expensive. Some swear by Redline and other "pure" synthetic products and I've never heard of a problem with them. They usually cost even more. Never had a problem with the Mopar stuff.

Getting the new fluid in to the housing through the fill plug is a little challenging, although it's easier if you don't have a rear sway bar. I actually jack up one side of the truck more as a way to slightly overfill the housing. The Dana 9 and 1/4 differentials used on the Rams have a reputation for premature failure on older units. They're better now, but here is where I like to have an edge. But then again, I've never seen a Ram or Dakota differential fail that had proper maintenance.

Best regards,
Dusty

 

Dusty, I would like to tap into your vast experience and knowledge concerning a whine I am experiencing from the rear end.
I just purchased a 2010 with 14.5K miles. It has the 4.7 and 3.55 rear end.
I notice a whine coming from the back of the truck on mild speed maintaining acceleration. Example is driving at 60 mph, when I go lightly on the gas to maintain speed I hear a whine from the rear end, and when I let off, it goes silent. So, I'm guessing the source is the differential. On the other hand, being a new owner of only a week or so, the whine may be characteristic of the breed and of no concern. But, then again, it may indicate improper factory assembly. I'd very much appreciate your thoughts on this subjecct.
Regards,
RC

 

First, this problem could be tires. Try a tire rotation and see if the symptom changes or goes away.


How to Diagnose Axle & Differential Noise


Warm the axle and differential components and fluid by driving the vehicle at least ten miles.

Growling or whine noise that occurs only at a specific speed range (straight-ahead driving)


On a straight, smooth and level road, bring the vehicle past the speed that produces the noise. Shift the vehicle out of gear and coast down through the speed range where the noise is usually heard. If the noise stops or changes significantly:

· Low or insufficient differential lubricant
· Expired or contaminated differential lubricant; incorrect viscosity or lubricant
· Incorrect ring gear backlash
· Incorrect pinion depth
· Incorrect pinion-to-ring gear tooth contact
· Worn or damaged front pinion bearing
· Damaged ring or pinion gear teeth
· Incorrect carrier housing offset or squareness

NOTE: Noise in a specific speed range can also be initiated during acceleration or light load constant speed.

On a straight, smooth and level road, load the differential by moderately accelerating the vehicle:

· If noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is defective

On a straight, smooth and level road, unload the differential by coasting the vehicle:

· If noise occurs, the front pinion bearing is defective


Constant Noise (any speed)
· Worn or damage pinion bearings
· Worn or damaged differential bearings
· Worn or damaged axle bearings


Noise occurs on turns only


· Worn or damaged differential side gears or thrust washers

Regards,
Dusty

 

Thank you for the complete instructions on determining the source of the whine. I assume it is either the backlash or something else internal, but, I'll work on further trying to isolate it before contacting the dealer.

 

I had that exact same issue with my truck last summer while pulling my camper, same noise symptoms you experience and same diff (3.55). It would wine gradually louder the faster you'd go and go silent when you let off. It's just gonna get worse and sadly i'd say it's your diff going. I went to the dealer and they told me my diff was pooched, so since i never changed the oil in it at the 18 000mile I had to pay for it, so i told them to throw some 4.56 in there, just to let you know my experience.

 

Interpunx,
Do you know the requirements for fluid change to keep the warranty in force? I haven't found a quick answer in searching the web and was unsure from your response whether you were saying there was a required fluid change at 18K, or that you had 18k on the truck and since you hadn't changed the fluid, you had voided the warranty.
Thanks.
RC

 

I had passed the 30 000kms (in canada) i believe by almost double, and that was the recommended interval to change the oil at. It says it in your owner's manual somewhere, and the dealership won't go out of their way to tell you your due for a change. Since i never had records of it being serviced which i never did, they did not cover it under warranty, but I also wanted the 4.56 gears so i would of ended up paying for it anyways. Now i change the oil before it's even due, live and learn