Rear Airbag Install
#21
Sorry been awhile.
I havent taken any pictures of this Im sorry but I can describe it as best as possible to you guys.
Installed the bags using a spring compressor (that wasn't to hard). Now from the right side to the left there is a bed strenghening pocket I ran my line down to the left bag from the right.
There I tee'd and sent the line to the steering column following the factory wiring harness exactly. (NOTE** ONCE BY THE CAT CONVERTER PUT THE LINE INTO THE FRONT WHEEL PLASTIC INNER FENDER I MELTED MINE HERE)
I was pulling a 30 ft trailer through the mountains but still..
Once at the firewall Tee again and send a line into the dash through the rubber boot for the other factory wires. (This is kind of a pain) Then I sent my line above the alumnium brace under the dash on top of the column. I then sent the line from there to the center console and drilled a hole to my lower console (for the gauge) **send your Compressor PWR with this hose through the firewall to the console**.
Back to the outside of the firewall complete the Tee and run the line towards the front going behind the battery along the fender. I kept going across the grill and to the passenger side headlight (where I mounted my compressor).
That completes the pneumatics.
Ground the compressor at the compressor screws/mounts.
The PWR wire we fed through into the interior I soldered into the cigarette lighter positive and left the pressure switch inside the console (under the shifter area).
I then soldered into my PRNDL light two wires for my gauge light.
Then I fed those wires into the lower console compartment to finish. Then cut the rubber mat twice paralell and left the flap up against the gauge assembly to hide the side a bit.
...Sorry Im trying to be desciptive, I'll get some pictures going as soon as I can. But doing it this way allows you to have a lighted gauge inside you lower console and you can control pressure up and down and not have a nasty looking rig tearing up your knees.
Also if you take your time..like me and buddy painfully did you cannot see anything. We ran Loom along ALL lines and hid it everywhere we could (Under grill valance,behind the battery etc..) The only things visable are the Compressor (which was black and looks factory), the Red bags and the Gauge assy in the console.
I havent taken any pictures of this Im sorry but I can describe it as best as possible to you guys.
Installed the bags using a spring compressor (that wasn't to hard). Now from the right side to the left there is a bed strenghening pocket I ran my line down to the left bag from the right.
There I tee'd and sent the line to the steering column following the factory wiring harness exactly. (NOTE** ONCE BY THE CAT CONVERTER PUT THE LINE INTO THE FRONT WHEEL PLASTIC INNER FENDER I MELTED MINE HERE)
I was pulling a 30 ft trailer through the mountains but still..
Once at the firewall Tee again and send a line into the dash through the rubber boot for the other factory wires. (This is kind of a pain) Then I sent my line above the alumnium brace under the dash on top of the column. I then sent the line from there to the center console and drilled a hole to my lower console (for the gauge) **send your Compressor PWR with this hose through the firewall to the console**.
Back to the outside of the firewall complete the Tee and run the line towards the front going behind the battery along the fender. I kept going across the grill and to the passenger side headlight (where I mounted my compressor).
That completes the pneumatics.
Ground the compressor at the compressor screws/mounts.
The PWR wire we fed through into the interior I soldered into the cigarette lighter positive and left the pressure switch inside the console (under the shifter area).
I then soldered into my PRNDL light two wires for my gauge light.
Then I fed those wires into the lower console compartment to finish. Then cut the rubber mat twice paralell and left the flap up against the gauge assembly to hide the side a bit.
...Sorry Im trying to be desciptive, I'll get some pictures going as soon as I can. But doing it this way allows you to have a lighted gauge inside you lower console and you can control pressure up and down and not have a nasty looking rig tearing up your knees.
Also if you take your time..like me and buddy painfully did you cannot see anything. We ran Loom along ALL lines and hid it everywhere we could (Under grill valance,behind the battery etc..) The only things visable are the Compressor (which was black and looks factory), the Red bags and the Gauge assy in the console.
#22
Got some pictures in this gallery
2 of the compressor
2 of the gauge
2 of the "Tee's" you'll have to look close to see the one by the firewall
1 of the left bag
and 1 of the strenthening rib where I channeled the right to left line. Its about 10 inchs forward of the coils.
http://img269.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc00241w.jpg
2 of the compressor
2 of the gauge
2 of the "Tee's" you'll have to look close to see the one by the firewall
1 of the left bag
and 1 of the strenthening rib where I channeled the right to left line. Its about 10 inchs forward of the coils.
http://img269.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc00241w.jpg
#24
I installed my airlift 1000's tonite .. took 2 hours only cuase i was takin my sweet time .. all went well .. ran a seperate line for each bag ..
NOTE :
it is not required to remove the sway bar link bolt to install bag. The ONLY bolt that has to come out of EACH side is the lower shock mount bolt .. thats IT ...
i haven't drilled a hole anywhere for each air valve yet .. i just zip tied each valve just under the bumper a few inches inside of each exhaust pipe .. out of the way ..
QUESTION .. how much slack did you guys leave in your hoses ? .. tight ? loose ? .. i left them very loose .. to allow for movement as the axle travels up and down ..
thanks
NOTE :
it is not required to remove the sway bar link bolt to install bag. The ONLY bolt that has to come out of EACH side is the lower shock mount bolt .. thats IT ...
i haven't drilled a hole anywhere for each air valve yet .. i just zip tied each valve just under the bumper a few inches inside of each exhaust pipe .. out of the way ..
QUESTION .. how much slack did you guys leave in your hoses ? .. tight ? loose ? .. i left them very loose .. to allow for movement as the axle travels up and down ..
thanks
#26
#27
I don't have a set yet but was thinking that the hose comes out the top of the spring? If so, there really would not be any movement to worry about.
#28
See Ive got the luxury of a hoist so my instructions will be biased here.
On the hoist I didn't undo any bolts all at, I just used a clamshell style spring compressor and yanked the springs out.
Thanks BTW I love the hood, and I think Im gonna leave the inserts in until "mabe" someone makes a ram air kit for it.
On the hoist I didn't undo any bolts all at, I just used a clamshell style spring compressor and yanked the springs out.
Thanks BTW I love the hood, and I think Im gonna leave the inserts in until "mabe" someone makes a ram air kit for it.
#29
Put in my Air Lift 1000's today and it was an easy install. Took about an hour to get the bags installed with only disconnecting the rear shocks. Do keep an eye on the brake line tension - I noticed the passenger side was tight so I could not let the axle all the way down. I ran the T type setup with the fill mounted to the trailer hitch. Next week I will be pulling the car hauler and will see if my sag issue is gone.
#30
Ok, I just took a towing and hauling trip with my newly installed Airlift 1000 bags. I had easily between 950 and 1150 lbs in the bed. I also towed a 1,000 pound single axle trailer with another 1,500 lbs on it. The bags do the trick at 30lbs of pressure on keeping the truck almost level with full recommended load (maybe a bit more load than recommended). As far as the 2,500 on the hitch? I had to keep looking to see if it was back there. I am now satisfied that I can carry a 1/2 ton of stuff without the squat that was frankly embarrassing for a 40k truck. Tow mode is awesome! I love the way it gears down when you brake.
By the way, I tee'd the lines together and put the valve next to the rear license plate.
I also found out the hard way that the lip on the tailgate hits the surge brake bracket on this particular trailer hitch when open..... bummer on my first dent.
By the way, I tee'd the lines together and put the valve next to the rear license plate.
I also found out the hard way that the lip on the tailgate hits the surge brake bracket on this particular trailer hitch when open..... bummer on my first dent.
Last edited by Stonewhiteram; 07-29-2009 at 08:09 PM.