I tapped into the drivers door tan/green tan/white, I see some guys further down have found the ones I should have tapped into. I am into the drivers door, I think I was misunderstood. Anyway I am happy with it, my only reason is to try to prevent tailgate theft that is it. I think the dodge one hooks up into plastic this seems to be pretty sturdy I was surprised.
Only issue was I had to kinda bend it a bit to make the rod hit the right spot, there is no splicing they supply T clips and the hardest thing was to get the dam wire thru the rubber into the cab, man they make a good seal, compared toworking on my old 72 chevy, the rubber on the dodge is actually 2 layers.

 

That is not where my instructions say to find the wires, no splicing just t-taps I actually never saw these before they are cool then you plug wires in and you can disconnect. I followed instructions from Pace Edwards, in fact I called there because I wasn't sure why they say to plug in the wires under the dash, I guess that is the easiest place to find them.
If you pull the part that has the blue and grey large connectors off its holder then you can find the two wire you need right away and you get more room to work. The other thing I did was put more wire loom on spots that might rub inside the tailgate for instance. And under the hood I velcroed the 2 relays to the side of the fuse box up front I hope they stay I cleaned it properly and used industrial velcro like the stuff they use for the bedrug. I may get a couple more t-taps and put them on the mopar recommended rear door? just so the tailgate is not opened everytime, the truck is opened but just looks like a universal type motor I put in my daughters jeep. I am not sure of anything under the truck my kid did it for me he is skinny and not paraplegic, usually that is the stuff I do but I just told him to follow the oem wiring and wiretie it along the way and at the front you have to be careful where you go you can get close to the exhaust he says, so we came up behing the wheel well then behing the battery then it hooks up to the wiring harness that has the relays and it goes into the truck, not anything like how they had that fuse box all pulled apart.

 

The Pace Edwards unit requires the installation of relays?

The Mopar unit just wires straight in. The Mopar unit is spliced and soldered in, which is more work than the T Taps, but it's a much better electrical connection than T Taps. Splicing and Soldering results in a larger contact area, and the connection won't corrode.

 

I just got mine today and I went out to check things out. Where the heck to I squeeze these stinkin wires in at? Geez!

The rest I don't think I'll have a problem with, just gotta find the correct wires and using your suggestion about pulling the connectors of the holder will most likely help.

 

Well it turns out I cannot find those TAN/GREEN and TAN/WHITE wires.

Are they a TAN wire with a GREEN and WHITE stripe or the other way around?

I removed a big harness from behind the E-Brake pedal and was looking through it and can't find those color wires. I don't know if this is the right harness, but it is the biggest harness behind the pedal. I was still able to lock and unlock my doors by the button on my door when this was disconnected.

Here is the harness I'm talking about. Click it for the fullsize pic





EDIT: OK, I'm pretty sure I figured out the TAN/GREEN wire garbage. Now what is the secret to getting those wires through the firewall? The rubber around the existing wires is super tight and it almost looks like they're made tighter buy electrical tape. Do you remove the tape to loosen it a bit so you can squeeze the new wires in and then re-tape it?

 

I personally would connect to the wires under the hood as shown in the link above. They can be tapped under the fuse box. But if you want to use the ones under the dash, look on the firewall near the brake booster. There is a large rubber boot that has the main harness going through. Near the bottom of the boot, you will see a separate small nipple. You just cut the tip off and then feed you wire though. It is originally for the backup camera wires but no reason you can't use for your purpose. They recommend adding a bit of sealant after you run your wire to close it back up. But that is what the nipple is there for.

 

Yeah I saw that little dude down there when messing with it. I will give that a try this evening. Thanks

 

I don't get why they want you to run wires into the cab. It's so easy to just follow the main harness all the way from the back and up into the fuse box, without messing around going through the firewall or under the dash.

 

Oh man I thought that nipple was an install aid. I just poked a hole in the rubberand the wires are so tight I don't think there will be and issue but i think I will put some black rtv around the wire. The reason the factory hook up is under the fuse panel is because it makes use of relays under the hood, I don't know why pace edwards uses their own relays but I was told they like to be totally responsible for the complete wiring up to the power source. I am going to give the t connectors a shot of the stuff for electrical connections to prevent corrosion, this was too if I were to have some electrical problems I can easily take out and evidence, I was considering changing the wiring to open on the second push but I thought when you come up to your truck with stuff you usually toss it in the back so one hit gets you in the tailgate and the front door. I may have a dealer talked into a freebie handle with locking key and power for my inconvenience. Playing the handicap card. We all should have it since it is standard equipment on Sport or Slt and up. I will surely let you know if I get away with it, then I will be selling a pace edwards cheap, hell I might give it away if I get the proper set up.