Curt Mfg hitch?
any one got a curt mfg hitch? full on one not the one that bolts to the stock cross bar? was interested in get the 13374 or the 14374 models. i wonder wat the difference is construction wise. one a class 3 hitch and the other class 4/5 hitch. is worth getting class 4/5 if class 3 right at the trucks towing capacity? any got any pics? im assuming i will see the crossbar on this setup unlike the clean stock hitch....
I bought the 13374 last week from Anything Automotive, $153 no shipping, no tax. I put it on over the weekend, it took longer to drop the spare tire and read the instructions then it did to install. It was heavier than i expected and it's off balance but you can do it with one person.
If you do go with this one I have an installation suggestion: once you fish the new bolts through, reverse fish the 2 in the frame first, take the fish wire off, then do the 2 that face the bumper through the tube, but leave those fish lines in place because you'll most likely knock them back into the bumper tube to get the hitch in place. Raise the hitch and loosely install the 2 OEM frame bolts that you took out, becareful not to knock the bolts back into the frame as you set the hitch in place. Next, just finger tight the nuts to the new frame bolts. Fish the remaining 2 bolts through the hitch and finger tight those nuts. Torque down the OEM frame bolts first. It's a nice clean look, the round tube hitch matches the bumper tube and in my opinion worth the $50 more than the Mopar add on.
I didn't take any pics but I can if you want. The 2" square receiver is flush with the bumper, you'll see the crossbar if you stand back far enough, but it's not bad--I don't think it could be recessed any further.
If you do go with this one I have an installation suggestion: once you fish the new bolts through, reverse fish the 2 in the frame first, take the fish wire off, then do the 2 that face the bumper through the tube, but leave those fish lines in place because you'll most likely knock them back into the bumper tube to get the hitch in place. Raise the hitch and loosely install the 2 OEM frame bolts that you took out, becareful not to knock the bolts back into the frame as you set the hitch in place. Next, just finger tight the nuts to the new frame bolts. Fish the remaining 2 bolts through the hitch and finger tight those nuts. Torque down the OEM frame bolts first. It's a nice clean look, the round tube hitch matches the bumper tube and in my opinion worth the $50 more than the Mopar add on.
I didn't take any pics but I can if you want. The 2" square receiver is flush with the bumper, you'll see the crossbar if you stand back far enough, but it's not bad--I don't think it could be recessed any further.
Last edited by greenblur; Aug 12, 2009 at 09:32 PM.
heres the differences in hitches (email from Curt Mfg.). anyone have a pic how they look on the truck with a full end to end hitch?
All our hitches use grade 5 hardware. Hitch #14374 is a class 4 hitch rated for 10,000 lbs. The main tube on this hitch is ¼” thick and the side plates are 5/16” thick. Hitch #13374 is a class 3 hitch rated for 6,000 lbs. The main tube on this hitch is 3/16” thick and the side plates are ¼” thick.
All our hitches use grade 5 hardware. Hitch #14374 is a class 4 hitch rated for 10,000 lbs. The main tube on this hitch is ¼” thick and the side plates are 5/16” thick. Hitch #13374 is a class 3 hitch rated for 6,000 lbs. The main tube on this hitch is 3/16” thick and the side plates are ¼” thick.
I went with the 13333 model as it has the same capacity as the 13374 model but its easier to install and cheaper, $87 vs $153 and is rated for more than my pickups pulling capacity. My 4.7Quad Cab w/20in wheels and 3.55 rear end max trailer capacity is only 5250# but I could increase that by 1000# by adding a 3.92 rear end or "17 in wheels or 2000 by adding both.






