I AM BACK GUYS, HAPPY NEW YEARS TO ALL !...

HOW MUCH SHOULD I PAY FOR THE 2010 DODGE RAM R/T ?THE DEALER HAS 4 COMING IN NEXT WEEK....
& I AM GOING TO BUY ONE....

SO PLEASE HELP ME SO I CAN MAKE A GOOD PURCHASE!...

did anyone get a rebate when they got theirs?

THANKS,

SINCERELY,
CACA

 

Ugggg.......this question always gets under my skin. Someday I will post a thread on HOW to buy a car smartly based on my insider information. People really need to STOP asking others what they paid as every deal is still different and it can be misleading. For instance, on my contract I paid about 38,000 for my truck with a sticker of ~39,500. I know many of you paid much lower than this during the "crisis" but you also need to consider that my trade car was about $5,000 upside down. So technically I paid about 33,000 and the difference had to be soaked into the contract....hope this makes sense.

As a general "business rule of thumb", offering the dealer 3% above invoice is considered a fair deal. (But you want a better deal I know, just like all of us.)


RULES OF ENGAGEMENT:
Find out what the invoice cost for the dealer is and also see if you can find out what the "holdback" amount is. These are 2 very critical numbers. Even though you know the invoice amount you want to know how much they will make off of you if you pay that based on volume sales....this is generally the "holdback" from chrysler or fiat or whatever the name is now. You can usually get this information through an online site who specializes in this for about $20 or so.

Hopefully you are not going to share any information such as how much you WANT to spend as far as monthly payments because they can jack you around, don't deal on a trade in if you have one until you confirm the sale price of the truck cause they will jack you. Do not tell them you are going to finance the truck casue they will jack you. Do not let them finance you if you can get a better deal through a local credit union and be preapproved cause they will jack you. They make money off of the interest rate by jacking up the points.

Search/call SEVERAL dealers, not just your local dealer to compare their BEST deal on an identical truck. Do the homework and find out he build codes. When ready, go see the dealer and share what YOU think you want to pay and see if they bite. If not, take your money elsewhere. Bottom line, the dealer wants and needs to make money. Only you can determine how much that pad is.

PM me if you would like clarification on any of this. It is quite complicated at times which is because in general, people just do not know and the numbers can easily be skewed in their favor.

And for god sake people, stop buying the lame add-on stuff: GAP, paint protection, underbody sprays, most warranty contracts, etc.

(Lo-Jack is always good but might be negotiable)

 

ramphreak,
thanx, good info... lol....
that being said,
how much did any of u all pay for
ur 2010 r/t, for those of u who order'd
one? & did u all get rebates... thanx,

sincerely,
caca

 

I have bought more trucks then the average due to my construction company...I always go in and tell the sale person I am very busy, that I am interested in their truck. I then have them either fax, or email over their best deal, and offer them invoice, I keep rebates. I do not negotiate their hold back, unless they tell me they are giving a percentage. They make a 1000.00 per vehicle or better with hold back. So don't sweat tasking them for their invoice, best deal I gave was invoice plus 300.00. This truck I own, is an 09 SLT loaded for 27300. Could have traceled 200 miles and got it for 800.00 cheaper...too busy for that. Check EBAY their are several giving hold back to.

 

You will probably not find anyone that can tell you what they paid for a 10 R/T as they are JUST hitting the lots, as are all the other sport models.

 

thanks,
for u all imputs, keep them coming


caca

 

Hey I think the price of the 2010's went down, I built the exact truck that I have now and it was 4000 less online. I am sure there must be 4000 grand in fees and taxes and bs.

 

10s did go down, but not by that much. You may have been looking at the total after incentives. Mine was about 1K less, but given we got 10K+ off sticker it all balances out.

 

I looked at the RT's I could find on line and they look to have the identical equipment as my 2010 Sport, only thing missing is the R/T badge in the front grille. I paid $39K for my loaded Sport in Canada last week, it listed at $48,800. Taxes not included, I'm a Chrysler employee.

 

Don't pay more than $65.00.

J/K - are the R/Ts that much cooler or something?