Fox Coilovers Installed start of Dodge Ramter (Raptor) Conversion
#1
Fox Coilovers Installed start of Dodge Ramter (Raptor) Conversion
I got these a while ago, and am finally getting around to writing about them. I had to get special ends machined to thread onto the end of the coilover. They are the correct length to allow the front to droop out to where the CV's almost bind. The upper balljoint is not an issue, because it is not machined at the same angle as the factory knuckle. I made the lower clevis and the upper bracket. The coils are Hyper Coils (650-700 lb/in somewhere in that range), there is about 1 inch of preload on the coils. I dont know what the specific valve code is for these, I think they just cross referenced some of their other applications and used something similar.
Like the aftermarket Bilstein struts, these increase the wheel travel. I cycled the suspension without the coil on the body and nothing binds up. I get about an extra inch of droop and inch of compression.
Factory struts:
The Fox coilovers come with short ends, you have to heat them up to break the red loc-tite death grip in order to unthread them.
I should have taken more pictures of the individual pieces, but I really couldn't wait and wanted them on there really bad. I'm impatient.
This is the start of my Dodge Ramter (Raptor) conversion. I have a bunch of other stuff I'd like to do, I just need time - and money.
Such as:
Step 2: Spec out the half shaft center section and order custom +2" width axles for the front, new fabbed upper and lower a-arms with 88-98 chevy 1500 ball joints. The upper ball joints have 45 degrees of motion EACH WAY, they have tons more articulation than our upper ball joints do. The taper is different, but I have access to a chevy tapered reamer to correct the knuckle tapers. The ball joints are bolt on style so I dont have to use COM bearings. Glassworks unlimited makes front fenders, not sure if I'm going to go that route or get some bushwhacker fender flares. I have to get some prices on getting the half shafts made. This is what the inside of your CV's look like - incase anyone wondered.
Like the aftermarket Bilstein struts, these increase the wheel travel. I cycled the suspension without the coil on the body and nothing binds up. I get about an extra inch of droop and inch of compression.
Factory struts:
The Fox coilovers come with short ends, you have to heat them up to break the red loc-tite death grip in order to unthread them.
I should have taken more pictures of the individual pieces, but I really couldn't wait and wanted them on there really bad. I'm impatient.
This is the start of my Dodge Ramter (Raptor) conversion. I have a bunch of other stuff I'd like to do, I just need time - and money.
Such as:
Step 2: Spec out the half shaft center section and order custom +2" width axles for the front, new fabbed upper and lower a-arms with 88-98 chevy 1500 ball joints. The upper ball joints have 45 degrees of motion EACH WAY, they have tons more articulation than our upper ball joints do. The taper is different, but I have access to a chevy tapered reamer to correct the knuckle tapers. The ball joints are bolt on style so I dont have to use COM bearings. Glassworks unlimited makes front fenders, not sure if I'm going to go that route or get some bushwhacker fender flares. I have to get some prices on getting the half shafts made. This is what the inside of your CV's look like - incase anyone wondered.
#2
This is how you take your inner CV apart - incase anyone ever needs to. There is a Circlip you have to expand in order to get the shaft from the inner CV.
Then I thought I was going to get lucky. I measured a 07 Chevy half shaft and the center section was 2 inches longer. I got the files from SEMA, but the Chevy half shaft diameter is 0.100" smaller. That would have been awesome, because it would have saved a lot of time.
Then I thought I was going to get lucky. I measured a 07 Chevy half shaft and the center section was 2 inches longer. I got the files from SEMA, but the Chevy half shaft diameter is 0.100" smaller. That would have been awesome, because it would have saved a lot of time.
#3
hey jball pretty bad a$$ man what model of shocks are those and did they lift it any i got the bilsteins know and really like them but if i can up grade them i would love to u might have already seen these but bms blitzkrieg motorsports makes a upper arm and there sick i got them on mine and its a whole new animal in the dirt soaks up anything another route ypu can consider if you dint want to wide the track width is kore offrad makes half shafts that hold up to the abbuse but wont widen anything and gives the truck something like 13 inches or so of usable wheel travel
#5
hey jball pretty bad a$$ man what model of shocks are those and did they lift it any i got the bilsteins know and really like them but if i can up grade them i would love to u might have already seen these but bms blitzkrieg motorsports makes a upper arm and there sick i got them on mine and its a whole new animal in the dirt soaks up anything another route ypu can consider if you dint want to wide the track width is kore offrad makes half shafts that hold up to the abbuse but wont widen anything and gives the truck something like 13 inches or so of usable wheel travel
The Kore and BMS stuff is real nice, but I can't make billet arms like theirs (no access CNC mills)... I have access to tubing benders, flared hole dies, and CNC lasers - so I can fab my own up. If the half shaft stuff falls thru, I'll have to keep the stock track width and see about upgrading to their CV's.
They are still the factory upper arms. I'm going to wait to get started on arms until I can get the half shafts made by someone... That's the only thing I can't do myself. I've got that old CV shaft so I can get one made. And if I can't figure out something as far as the half shaft goes I'll just keep it stock width. I got something figured out for the upper ball joint as far as a direct replacement..... I think / hope
And who keeps leaving a tiny bit of coffee in the coffee pot?!?!? GRRRRRR!
#6
I use these guys for my Subaru Race/Street car, after snapping 7 half shafts in one season I deceided to give them a try. 700+HP and they've lasted 2 seasons so far, launching the car at 7,000rpms on 4 slicks LOL.
My car makes 580WHP and weights 3200lbs, they rate the axles I'm using @ 800 WHP!
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/
I'm sure they could make some for you
Hope that helps you out!
My car makes 580WHP and weights 3200lbs, they rate the axles I'm using @ 800 WHP!
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/
I'm sure they could make some for you
Hope that helps you out!