Mine is a crew cab and I believe there is a real difference based on what the engineers from AMP Research are saying.

 

Actually if you look at the kits, the only difference is the board length. The hardware and brackets are exactly the same.

In any event, I hope they get things fixed up for you.

 

Actually, the boards are not that different but what the main difference is the truck. The metal is not as stiff in the crew cabs; thus, causing binding. I spoke with an engineer at AMP Research yesterday and he is sending me the hardware so I can make the change so they are more rigid and that they work like they should.

 

Okay. Here is an update on the Power Step problems. Well, I spoke several times with the customer support techs and even the engineers over at AMP Research and, first of all, they are top notch guys. Really intent on doing what it takes to make things right. So, I was talking with Anthony over there (engineer) and he basically said that when they first developed the Power Steps for the new Dodge crew cab, they basically did it off of CAD and specs provided from Dodge. They didn't have an actual truck to do R&D on. So, admittedly, they had some bugs to work out.

So, what they did for me was, they had me take the boards back off, switch the back driver's side bracket with the motor, up to the front passenger side. But, in order to do that, he sent me a whole new bracket because the motor had to be angled a little differently in order to clear some of the underbody.

Then, I had to switch the rear passenger bracket with motor to the driver's front side, that was using the same bracket. The idler brackets criss-cross switched as well. So, I got it all switched around and then put the fuse back in to find out that when I shut the door, the boards would come out and when I opened the door, they would retract. So, I switched the wiring harnesses to see if that would do the trick. Well, now the problem was that when I opened the driver side doors, the passenger boards would operate, and vice-versa.

So, here is what I had to do, I had to go back under the fuse box, take the wiring apart and switch all the connections. Not a hard thing to do but time confusing and aggravating.

By the way, they also sent me new pieces that that go up into the rocker to replace the propeller-type flange that bends really easy. The new piece is made out of thick aluminum and makes the whole set up much more solid.

So, after all that and about 4.5 hours, everything works fine. I wish I would have taken pics of all the new stuff but I was so anxious to get them on. There is nothing that I hate more than having stuff hanging down off my truck.

If you are having this same problem, I highly recommend calling AMP Research and talking to them but before you do, you might want to try one quick thing and that is to loosen up the allen head bolts that attach the boards to the brackets and then have the boards retract all the way up. Push them up further underneath with your shoulder as you tighten the bolts back up. Sometimes I think the board binds and won't go up but if you get it tightened up in the retracted position, it will be more likely to return to that position.

I hope this helps. Take care.

Robert

 

That sounds like a major PITA!!!! I wonder if they "Amp Research" would like to pay me for my time to do all this on a defective product? I am really disappointed to hear that you have to go through all this to make it right. I will try the loosening the boards and re-tightening trick, but as far as all those other hoops that you jumped through? Yikes!! these things were not cheap and the installation was not that easy to have to do all over again. Bummer

 

is this issue mostly with the crew cab models only?

 

No issues here but I have a Quad Cab.

Sounds like it was a squareness of the hinge to the board issue if loosening them and retightening fixes that problem.

 

From what I was told, the Crew Cabs are the only ones that experience these problems. The rocker is not nearly as solid as the Quad Cabs. I really think that they should send the more rigid pieces with the kit. When these things work properly, they are probably the coolest things out there. I will keep you informed of anything that happens.

By the way, has anyone installed the running board LED lights yet? I might tackle that soon. Still trying to decide. I am kinda tired of crawling around under the truck after yesterday.

 

I was going to order them but didn't want to drill the holes for the wires. Looks like there is tight clearance between the step and the lip so that is why you have to drill. The instructions are on the website.

Did you notice a big difference in flex with the new style propeller like brackets? I may have to inquire about them.

Thanks for all the info you have provided in this thread.

 

Top Gun, that is probably the biggest thing I have noticed, other than the boards retracting all the way up now, is that with the new pieces that replace the propeller, the boards are much, much stiffer. I am a bit more confident when stepping on them.

I have the lights in a box out in the garage along with the instructions. I just haven't worked up enough nerve to drill anything yet. Plus, it is too darn cold outside to work in the garage.