I am with you I have installed a few body lifts and I will not do it on anything newer than a 1980 truck they are a big headacke and I have seen the pucks fall out and break. Suspension lifts may be more money but that is the only way to go. just my 2 cents on the matter

 

i just did a suspension lift on mine. its a 2.5'' front and 2'' rear. there is a video in the 4th gen section. it was cheap($150) and not hard at all to install. they say it will work with the TRX4 package. and it will clear 35s

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...all-video.html
here is my lift, oh and its a daystar kit. i have been real happy with it

 

Once again, you won't get an additional 2" from the spring spacers. Those will serve to regain the spring's normal performance due to the body lift opening up the distance the springs have to fill.

I've seen tons of 3 inch lifts and they do give you more clearance for bigger tires. If you're looking to go cheap then that's the way to go. Your steering geometry is affected marginally, but other than that they typically work well. Thinking you can get 5 inches out of a body lift is just something I have never seen work well and frankly, that much body lift would probably just be unsafe.

 

I've installed a few body lifts and they do absolutely nothing to the suspension of the truck, all they do is lift the body off the frame 3 inches, the suspension components are untouched.

So adding 2 inch coil spacers along with a 3 inch body lift will net you 5 inches of lift and is perfectly safe if installed correctly.

 

....body lift is only lifting the body not suspension...so adding spacer will still raise the front end

 

im lost can some one explain this to me

 

With the stock truck sitting as is and the springs bearing the weight of the truck, they will normally keep the distance from the bottom spring perch to the top of the spring pocket at a fixed distance. Let's use 20 inches as an example and we'll call that distance X. Adding the body lift pucks alone will increase the distance from the bottom spring perch to the top of the spring pocket the distance of the spring plus the puck height. In this case, with 3 inch pucks, the distance from the bottom perch to the top of the pocket will now become X+3 or 23 inches. The springs will not be as compressed as they normally would. Adding the spring spacers will have the effect of regaining the normal spring compression X, they won't add more lift. Adding the spring spacer will have the same net effect as reducing the difference between X and the 3 inch pucks, but since they are only 2 inches, you'll wind up opening X up by only 1 inch by the time you are done.

You'll probably also want to get some new shocks, if the kit doesn't come with them.

I may be entirely off base, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see how you're going to get 5 inches out of that kit.

I have a little experience with installing lifts. I went through 3 different lifts to get my last ride to it's final height.

 

I think you are confused as to where the body lift spacers sit, they do not touch the springs at all, they sit literally in between the body and the frame and do not increase the distance from the bottom and top spring perches. The spring compression remains the same with body lifts.

 

Yep, I understand where I'm in error here. For some reason I was thinking that the upper spring pocket was attached to the body vice the frame. I guess I just got used to dealing with my unibody Jeep, which didn't have a frame. Thanks for the correction and my apologies for adding any confusion here.