Cheap lift.... Input?
Alright so I was bouncing around looking for lift kits for the TRX4. I'm never gonna do any SERIOUS offroading or at least not for a few years.... maybe a few trails here and there. I realize body lifts are the "cheaper" way to go. Can I get some input on possible issues with this as well as how difficult this would be to install at the house?
BTW I'm thinking this would fit the TRX4 just fine if you left the strut spacers out... am I wrong?
Possible warranty issues??
http://www.performanceaccessories.co...body-lifts.pdf
BTW I'm thinking this would fit the TRX4 just fine if you left the strut spacers out... am I wrong?
Possible warranty issues??
http://www.performanceaccessories.co...body-lifts.pdf
My new truck should be here in 2 wks. Iam going to do 3 inch body lift did one 20 yrs ago, looks like theres a little more to it these days but iam going to do it. Local truck shop quoted 600 for install which aint bad, but i like the satisfaction of doing it my self. The only thing that bothering me is what to do with the exhaust. The reason for body lift is ive always had 2500s and i went with the 1500 for the ride dont want to change ride quality and want to stay with my 265 tires. AnyBODY out there done one there self ,any problems? By the way my new truck is a blk qc 4x4
Last edited by bkc; Feb 2, 2010 at 11:19 PM.
its not just a body lift. its a 3" body plus a 2" or so coil spacer. ive seen a few new 2wd that have done it but not a new 4X4..ive seen tons of previous years rams with the same setup though. fine in my opinion if you want the look and not want to spend so much money
I looked at the componenets of the kit again, and would still advise against a 5" lift using spacers between the frame and the body. Think of it this way, with your truck sitting as is, the distance between the bottom and top of the spring is controlled entirely by the spring. When you install the spacers between the frame and the body, you are creating a larger distance from the lower and uppper spring mount. Adding the spacers to the top of the spring only regains you a portion of the OEM spring rate, unless it is exactly as long as the spacers between the frame and body. So in order to get 5 inches of lift, your spacers have to be 5" long, and in order to retain OEM spring rates/performance, the spring spacers would also have to be 5" long. They are not additive.
So, as you are driving along, you have created a 5" larger distance between your frame and all the unsprung components and the frame/sprung components. Should something untoward happen, you have a larger lever between the likely impact points (body) and the control points (brakes/tires) which would create much greater potential for failure.
It's your money, but you get what you pay for. If you want to get to 5" of lift and adding bigger tires, my suggestion is to do it right and get a suspension lift. A few inches of lift with pucks wouldn't be so bad, but you are talking 5" of lift.
So, as you are driving along, you have created a 5" larger distance between your frame and all the unsprung components and the frame/sprung components. Should something untoward happen, you have a larger lever between the likely impact points (body) and the control points (brakes/tires) which would create much greater potential for failure.
It's your money, but you get what you pay for. If you want to get to 5" of lift and adding bigger tires, my suggestion is to do it right and get a suspension lift. A few inches of lift with pucks wouldn't be so bad, but you are talking 5" of lift.
I looked at the componenets of the kit again, and would still advise against a 5" lift using spacers between the frame and the body. Think of it this way, with your truck sitting as is, the distance between the bottom and top of the spring is controlled entirely by the spring. When you install the spacers between the frame and the body, you are creating a larger distance from the lower and uppper spring mount. Adding the spacers to the top of the spring only regains you a portion of the OEM spring rate, unless it is exactly as long as the spacers between the frame and body. So in order to get 5 inches of lift, your spacers have to be 5" long, and in order to retain OEM spring rates/performance, the spring spacers would also have to be 5" long. They are not additive.
So, as you are driving along, you have created a 5" larger distance between your frame and all the unsprung components and the frame/sprung components. Should something untoward happen, you have a larger lever between the likely impact points (body) and the control points (brakes/tires) which would create much greater potential for failure.
It's your money, but you get what you pay for. If you want to get to 5" of lift and adding bigger tires, my suggestion is to do it right and get a suspension lift. A few inches of lift with pucks wouldn't be so bad, but you are talking 5" of lift.
So, as you are driving along, you have created a 5" larger distance between your frame and all the unsprung components and the frame/sprung components. Should something untoward happen, you have a larger lever between the likely impact points (body) and the control points (brakes/tires) which would create much greater potential for failure.
It's your money, but you get what you pay for. If you want to get to 5" of lift and adding bigger tires, my suggestion is to do it right and get a suspension lift. A few inches of lift with pucks wouldn't be so bad, but you are talking 5" of lift.
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I have run many 3" body lifts. No issues at all. The nice thing is that you keep a factory ride and keep you center of gravity lower then a suspension lift does. And really, a lift is only as good as the height of your difs for the most part and that only gets higher with larger tires. Body or suspension don't really matter.
Thanks guys.... yeah I'm taking it as a 3" body lift with an additiona 2" from the spacers (which I'm going to leave out, because of the TRX4 suspension). So I think a 3" body lift is safe enough. Gonna cost more for the install than the lift :-) Yikes!
I am new to the dodge scene but i can give you the advise that i know about lifts. I had a tacoma that i lifted and did the works to the suspension. As far as body lifts go they are usually a no-no please correct me guys if im wrong. I also know from past experience that on lifts you get what you pay for. If you go with a cheap lift you will be sacraficing you cars ride alot. Depending on the type of lift you do you might even have a truck that wonders all over the road. When you change the height you affect more than just the ride height. If the ride doesnt bother you than a cheap lift will work great for ya. Not trying to discourage just educate but like i said im a virgin as far as dodge's so maybe they handle the lifting better? than every other truck?



