Has anyone had a problem jump starting another car
Dont know if its been covered or not , but A few weeks ago i had to jump start my other car. Hooked up the cables to my Ram and to the car, it turned it over a lil but never started it. Tried it a few more times, never started. Tried it with my wife's '05 Chevy Malibu, started right up... Has anyone else had this problem? Its a '09 Ram Sport 5.7l
I've used mine to jump other vehicles probably about 6 times so far and have never had a problem. Acutally, one time I jumped a Ram 3500 that had been dead for a long time and that one took quite a while to jump, I'd say 15 minutes at least before it was charged enough to turn over.
I shouldn't have to state this but I will because some people don't know that you have to START the primary vehicle in order for it to supply enough cranking amps to turn over another vehicle's starter.
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
I shouldn't have to state this but I will because some people don't know that you have to START the primary vehicle in order for it to supply enough cranking amps to turn over another vehicle's starter.
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
I'm confused, why can the battery start the truck that it is in but not a truck that you jump without being started? I never start my truck when I jump something, I have been told this may help to prevent messing up the electronics.
Now we go back for some clunking noise I can anticipate a fight already. I hope not. Gotta show them the drivers seat on the YES material on the Avenger is fraying in 2 spots and not where you would think....Monday morning.......not looking forward to it.
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I shouldn't have to state this but I will because some people don't know that you have to START the primary vehicle in order for it to supply enough cranking amps to turn over another vehicle's starter.
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
The voltage will always be there but it's the cranking amps that you need to turn a big *** engine over.
Thanks
Sounds like operator error to me.
I would be willing to bet you just didn't get a good conection.
I know running used to be the norm, more juice to give out, but new vehicles can get scary, especially if the car you are trying to jump isn't just dead, but has an electrical issue. It can backtrack into your running vehicle. Not always, but it can.... And why if it is good enough for your car not running, isn't it good enough for the other car? The cables.... Same thing as running an electric item on a long extension cord. The longer the cables, the more power you lose before it gets there.
I know running used to be the norm, more juice to give out, but new vehicles can get scary, especially if the car you are trying to jump isn't just dead, but has an electrical issue. It can backtrack into your running vehicle. Not always, but it can.... And why if it is good enough for your car not running, isn't it good enough for the other car? The cables.... Same thing as running an electric item on a long extension cord. The longer the cables, the more power you lose before it gets there.
Dead Car Battery Starting Method # 1: Preferred method of starting the dead battery
Try this method before you try Method #2. A guy named Doug from Canada sent in this tip. He's boosted cars a lot in winter and has found that it's critically important to shut off the boosting car’s engine during the moments of actual cranking of the car with the dead battery. This does however reduce available power to the dead car because the boosting car's alternator isn't running, Doug has had a number of "live" boosts make the boosting car's alternator diodes either fail outright or die very prematurely from the extreme current draw on the alternator while cranking the engine on the bad car. So the safest method is to have the good engine running a few minutes to charge the dead battery. Then shut off the good car's engine and disconnect the cables and start the bad car's engine. This method does not always work, so if Method #1 does not work for you, try Method #2. Personally, I've never had a problem with Method #2, but the risk is there. I still think the best thing for you to use if your car is near a source of AC current, is a home car battery charger/jumper. In the Method #1 above, I might add that if you keep trying to crank the bad car and it won't start, then stop this process before you drain the good car's battery. You don't want 2 dead car batteries on your hands. You may need to start the good car's engine and proceed with original method.
Dead Car Starting Method # 2: Gentlemen, Start Your Engines!
Start the good car's engine, and make sure the headlights are off, to allow the maximum amount of power to get to the dead battery. Let the good car's engine run a minute or so before attempting to start the dead car. Sometimes you get lucky and the dead battery will jump start right away, sometimes it takes a few minutes. If you're lucky and have a voltmeter built into your dash on the dead car, turn the key to the accessory setting and read the voltage coming into your charging system. Ideally you want between 12 and 13.6 volts, but some cars can start at 10 volts. If your dead car's interior dome light comes on, it's a great sign that you've connected the cables right. Now shut all doors and dome lights and try to start the car. If it sounds like it's trying to crank but won't turn over completely, give it a few more minutes and rev the engine moderately on the good car. You may also need to play with the cable grips to get a better connection, and use that in dash voltmeter to its fullest if you have one. You'll get a normal sparking as you move the cables around a bit.
Try this method before you try Method #2. A guy named Doug from Canada sent in this tip. He's boosted cars a lot in winter and has found that it's critically important to shut off the boosting car’s engine during the moments of actual cranking of the car with the dead battery. This does however reduce available power to the dead car because the boosting car's alternator isn't running, Doug has had a number of "live" boosts make the boosting car's alternator diodes either fail outright or die very prematurely from the extreme current draw on the alternator while cranking the engine on the bad car. So the safest method is to have the good engine running a few minutes to charge the dead battery. Then shut off the good car's engine and disconnect the cables and start the bad car's engine. This method does not always work, so if Method #1 does not work for you, try Method #2. Personally, I've never had a problem with Method #2, but the risk is there. I still think the best thing for you to use if your car is near a source of AC current, is a home car battery charger/jumper. In the Method #1 above, I might add that if you keep trying to crank the bad car and it won't start, then stop this process before you drain the good car's battery. You don't want 2 dead car batteries on your hands. You may need to start the good car's engine and proceed with original method.
Dead Car Starting Method # 2: Gentlemen, Start Your Engines!
Start the good car's engine, and make sure the headlights are off, to allow the maximum amount of power to get to the dead battery. Let the good car's engine run a minute or so before attempting to start the dead car. Sometimes you get lucky and the dead battery will jump start right away, sometimes it takes a few minutes. If you're lucky and have a voltmeter built into your dash on the dead car, turn the key to the accessory setting and read the voltage coming into your charging system. Ideally you want between 12 and 13.6 volts, but some cars can start at 10 volts. If your dead car's interior dome light comes on, it's a great sign that you've connected the cables right. Now shut all doors and dome lights and try to start the car. If it sounds like it's trying to crank but won't turn over completely, give it a few more minutes and rev the engine moderately on the good car. You may also need to play with the cable grips to get a better connection, and use that in dash voltmeter to its fullest if you have one. You'll get a normal sparking as you move the cables around a bit.



