2010 2500 two tie rod ends have fractured
hey john, i have a 2010 3500 with 28,000 miles and this past monday i was entering a intersection and driver side tie rod end fractured and had to cross in front of on comming traffic to due to loss of steering because the tie rod dropped down and got wedged inside of wheel between wheel and rotor scary experience, im just glad it happened at a slow speed rather then the steep twisty noth i had just come through minutes before. Any updates on what chrysler has done to resolve the problem? I live in maine and its the first that my dealer has seen of this type of problem.
When something fails like a tie rod fails someones got to be first.If more fail Chrysler seems to dig into the issue pretty quick it seems.RRT and recalls seem to happen in a hurry to address issues.Until the failure reason is known lots of times techs in dealerships don't have a clue to why.Engineering then will feed the info down to dealer level.I would think tie rod failures etc.would get addressed pretty quick. Oh and by the way.Smelly ac units happen on many models and manufacters.Worse with certain owners.Been that way for several decades.
Last edited by hounddogg; Jan 5, 2011 at 06:28 PM.
When something fails like a tie rod fails someones got to be first.If more fail Chrysler seems to dig into the issue pretty quick it seems.RRT and recalls seem to happen in a hurry to address issues.Until the failure reason is known lots of times techs in dealerships don't have a clue to why.Engineering then will feed the info down to dealer level.I would think tie rod failures etc.would get addressed pretty quick. Oh and by the way.Smelly ac units happen on many models and manufacters.Worse with certain owners.Been that way for several decades.
I've never heard Hemi tick.I have had noisy lifters on cold start.Only using a Wix oil filters. Had two Wix filters do this.Hanging upside down it shouldn't be able to bleed off.But does.Never any lifter noise using a Factory or Pure One filter.I agree on low quality parts more then likely causing tie-rod failure.All these auto manufacturers outsource lots of parts and to low bids.Its no excuse but its how its done.Some things are beyond dealer level and if not for TSBs or RRTs would never be repaired.It takes engineers for that. As far as AC smells.ITS NORMAL LOL until a sure fire repair is discovered.Then again.Engineering. AC smells are a pet peeve of mine.I have had them beat me to death in years past. On Nissan's,GMs Chrysler's and a few others.Some owners are like a bulldog to get rid of the smell.I have seen evaporators,all internal plastic duct work replaced and tons of chemicals used.The stank came back. The best I can say about bad ac odors is that its only SOME vehicles with SOME drivers.I found that in some cases the driver or repeated passengers stank in some way.Perfume,hand cremes,smokers,dogs.Not all but I found that enough times to be more then by chance.Of course vehicle owner didn't want to hear that,Best repair I found was staying off Max or Recirc on the ac controls.Some owners said that it didn't help.Others did.I'm actually surprised that it still happens.Its a very old issue.Then again a engineering issue not for the most part a dealer issue looking for the cure.
Last edited by hounddogg; Jan 6, 2011 at 04:49 AM.
ReCirc is supposed to used initially cool the vehicle down.Once insides are down then fresh is suppose to be used.I had a big go round with Dodge techs about my 03 3500 dually.Too high of head pressures and freon gets by the blow off valve.Chronic problem on 03/04.Any how if you use RECIR when its low on freon it will cool just ok for a while.Even at its best it dosen't cool well on fresh.They insisted RECIR should be used ALL the time.Only vehicle I have EVER owned to cool it you had to keep it on RECIR.Just plain poor ac. I got Chrysler to keep a open file on it for 4 years or so as a issue never repaired.They did allow a updated orifice tube/line to be installed way out of warranty.It helped a little.
Do you turn your truck to full lock and hold it there? Your turning radius is limited by hard stops on the axles, so you'd have a hydraulic press (power steering box) smashing those ends when you go to full lock. My wife used to go thru tie rod ends in about 60k miles, until I got her to quit turning it to full lock and holding it there.
After a month of digging and sending my broke parts to a lab in New York for testing I know what happened to my tie rod ends. The tie rod end at the pitman arm was overtightened and nearly twisted off when my lift was put on. I have a 3.5 inch suspension lift.
The tie rod end on the drivers side was left cocked to one side after the lift and alignment. The result of that was that when I was making right hand turns the tie rod stem was binding against the side of the tie rod end housing. Looking at the part I could see a wear spot and a buldge in the housing where the stem was striking it. I have also gained some turning radius since correcting this problem. So hard right hand turns kept bending my stem over the edge of the housing until it finally failed.
I had to figure this out on my own. Sad to say Dodge had no idea and neither did 4Wheel parts my installer although 4 Wheel Parts did go out of their way to correct the problem and replaced my whole steering system. If you have a tie rod fail inspect the failed part because you won't be able to get a dealer to. I had dealers do everything from say they had no idea and seem not to care about figuring it out to saying they knew exactly what it was and thier conclusion was not even reasonable.
MAKE CERTAIN YOUR TIE ROD ENDS ARE MOUNTED CENTERED AND NOT COCKED TO ONE SIDE OR ANOTHER AND TELL YOUR INSTALLER TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH NOT AN IMPACT ON YOUR PARTS! THEN WATCH THEM BECAUSE IF YOU DONT THEY WILL LIKELY IMPACT IT ANYWAY.
The tie rod end on the drivers side was left cocked to one side after the lift and alignment. The result of that was that when I was making right hand turns the tie rod stem was binding against the side of the tie rod end housing. Looking at the part I could see a wear spot and a buldge in the housing where the stem was striking it. I have also gained some turning radius since correcting this problem. So hard right hand turns kept bending my stem over the edge of the housing until it finally failed.
I had to figure this out on my own. Sad to say Dodge had no idea and neither did 4Wheel parts my installer although 4 Wheel Parts did go out of their way to correct the problem and replaced my whole steering system. If you have a tie rod fail inspect the failed part because you won't be able to get a dealer to. I had dealers do everything from say they had no idea and seem not to care about figuring it out to saying they knew exactly what it was and thier conclusion was not even reasonable.
MAKE CERTAIN YOUR TIE ROD ENDS ARE MOUNTED CENTERED AND NOT COCKED TO ONE SIDE OR ANOTHER AND TELL YOUR INSTALLER TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH NOT AN IMPACT ON YOUR PARTS! THEN WATCH THEM BECAUSE IF YOU DONT THEY WILL LIKELY IMPACT IT ANYWAY.
Hum.. any one who lifts a truck and expects all the stock oem parts to work with aftermarket can't expect Dodge, GM ect to honor the warenty, if the brand name rolled out the truck with a lift kit direct from the factery, than I understand the intial complaint.
Glad to hear your concerns were adressed.
Glad to hear your concerns were adressed.



