Transmission Oil Cooler
has anyone installed a transmission oil cooler
Recently I installed the jet 180 deg Thermostat. worked out great. Anyway Ive been I've been looking at the temp on the evic, which got me thinking of the transmission temp. My 06 SLT had a transmission oil cooler.
I looked at the front of my radiator on my 2010 laramie, and all I saw was the powersteering cooler. I checked the service manual, and it says that a transmission cooler is standard equipment on all RAMS all engines, there are removal and installation instructions just like everything else. So why don't I have one? eveidently Chrysler wanted to save money and decided not to make them standard after they printed the service manual. LOL We got cheated.
Anyway. I think I may look to install one now. I'm not concerned with the temp under normal conditions, but it gets pretty hot when I start driving up into the mountains, or towing.
Has anyone installed one on their truck?
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Recently I installed the jet 180 deg Thermostat. worked out great. Anyway Ive been I've been looking at the temp on the evic, which got me thinking of the transmission temp. My 06 SLT had a transmission oil cooler.
I looked at the front of my radiator on my 2010 laramie, and all I saw was the powersteering cooler. I checked the service manual, and it says that a transmission cooler is standard equipment on all RAMS all engines, there are removal and installation instructions just like everything else. So why don't I have one? eveidently Chrysler wanted to save money and decided not to make them standard after they printed the service manual. LOL We got cheated.
Anyway. I think I may look to install one now. I'm not concerned with the temp under normal conditions, but it gets pretty hot when I start driving up into the mountains, or towing.
Has anyone installed one on their truck?
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OK after romoving the grill and getting under the truck I do see there is a transmission oil cooler, it actuall takes up the entire front face of the radiator, there are lines going to it from the radiator., Maybe I'll install and electric fan instead.
I was gonna say, you SHOULD have one...
E-fan is a good upgrade, you'll see some free'd up ponies and should see a solid 1-2 mpg gain in city driving where a clutch fan is really parasitic.
If you tow, just make sure the fan you get is at least 3000 cfm.
Installing a tranny temp gauge is also never a bad idea, especially if you tow.
E-fan is a good upgrade, you'll see some free'd up ponies and should see a solid 1-2 mpg gain in city driving where a clutch fan is really parasitic.
If you tow, just make sure the fan you get is at least 3000 cfm.
Installing a tranny temp gauge is also never a bad idea, especially if you tow.
The thermostat shouldn't be changed out for a cooler one. The computer is set to the factory operating temp. You are likely to have problems with it. You are not dealing with an old engine that ran better at cooler temps. These are tested for millions of hours at the best temp range for a reason. It's where they operate the best.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
The thermostat shouldn't be changed out for a cooler one. The computer is set to the factory operating temp. You are likely to have problems with it. You are not dealing with an old engine that ran better at cooler temps. These are tested for millions of hours at the best temp range for a reason. It's where they operate the best.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
There are negatives to running a 180* t-stat, among them are running one in cold climates, where it will take the heat longer to come up to temp and warm the cab. Also, if you tend to take shorter trips, the engine oil has a better chance of sludging, as it will require more time to come up to temp and break down larger oil molecules. The PCM will also richen the mix slightly at 180* than it will with a stock t-stat, not much, but you'll use more fuel, especially in cooler/cold weather driving, not talking that much here, but you will see a small decrease in gas mileage.
Benefits are you will get a small boost in power due to the richer mix. Over the long haul, a cooler running engine will still live longer than a warmer running one, but we aren't talking a big temp difference here, so this shouldn't be a consideration.
IMO, you should stay with a stock temp t-stat, unless you have mods that would dictate changing to a cooler one. Many mods will lean the mix slightly and if you "bundle" some of these mods, then the mix can get too lean. Among them most CAI's, especially those that bring in the warmer air from under the hood, not to mention it increases air flow which leans a little, headers increase the air flow even more, meaning even leaner. Couple this with a tuner, which almost all tunes advance the timing some. Performance (higher octane) tunes advance timing quite a bit, again leaning the mix.
A 180* thermostat can counter-act this and work to richen the fuel up a little, often just enough to avoid a Lean State CEL. I have a 180* thermostat for this purpose, as with a CAI, Headers, Perf. Tune I was running a tad lean, not quite CEL lean, but leaner than stock non-the-less. 180* was a very inexpensive band aid to bring me back almost to stock spec.
The thermostat shouldn't be changed out for a cooler one. The computer is set to the factory operating temp. You are likely to have problems with it. You are not dealing with an old engine that ran better at cooler temps. These are tested for millions of hours at the best temp range for a reason. It's where they operate the best.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
You have a built in Tranny temp gauge in the cluster computer selected from the steering wheel.
In what way is the computer "set" to the factory operating temp? The closed/open loop is running time controlled, not temp controlled.
There are negatives to running a 180* t-stat, among them are running one in cold climates, where it will take the heat longer to come up to temp and warm the cab. Also, if you tend to take shorter trips, the engine oil has a better chance of sludging, as it will require more time to come up to temp and break down larger oil molecules. The PCM will also richen the mix slightly at 180* than it will with a stock t-stat, not much, but you'll use more fuel, especially in cooler/cold weather driving, not talking that much here, but you will see a small decrease in gas mileage.
Benefits are you will get a small boost in power due to the richer mix. Over the long haul, a cooler running engine will still live longer than a warmer running one, but we aren't talking a big temp difference here, so this shouldn't be a consideration.
IMO, you should stay with a stock temp t-stat, unless you have mods that would dictate changing to a cooler one. Many mods will lean the mix slightly and if you "bundle" some of these mods, then the mix can get too lean. Among them most CAI's, especially those that bring in the warmer air from under the hood, not to mention it increases air flow which leans a little, headers increase the air flow even more, meaning even leaner. Couple this with a tuner, which almost all tunes advance the timing some. Performance (higher octane) tunes advance timing quite a bit, again leaning the mix.
A 180* thermostat can counter-act this and work to richen the fuel up a little, often just enough to avoid a Lean State CEL. I have a 180* thermostat for this purpose, as with a CAI, Headers, Perf. Tune I was running a tad lean, not quite CEL lean, but leaner than stock non-the-less. 180* was a very inexpensive band aid to bring me back almost to stock spec.
There are negatives to running a 180* t-stat, among them are running one in cold climates, where it will take the heat longer to come up to temp and warm the cab. Also, if you tend to take shorter trips, the engine oil has a better chance of sludging, as it will require more time to come up to temp and break down larger oil molecules. The PCM will also richen the mix slightly at 180* than it will with a stock t-stat, not much, but you'll use more fuel, especially in cooler/cold weather driving, not talking that much here, but you will see a small decrease in gas mileage.
Benefits are you will get a small boost in power due to the richer mix. Over the long haul, a cooler running engine will still live longer than a warmer running one, but we aren't talking a big temp difference here, so this shouldn't be a consideration.
IMO, you should stay with a stock temp t-stat, unless you have mods that would dictate changing to a cooler one. Many mods will lean the mix slightly and if you "bundle" some of these mods, then the mix can get too lean. Among them most CAI's, especially those that bring in the warmer air from under the hood, not to mention it increases air flow which leans a little, headers increase the air flow even more, meaning even leaner. Couple this with a tuner, which almost all tunes advance the timing some. Performance (higher octane) tunes advance timing quite a bit, again leaning the mix.
A 180* thermostat can counter-act this and work to richen the fuel up a little, often just enough to avoid a Lean State CEL. I have a 180* thermostat for this purpose, as with a CAI, Headers, Perf. Tune I was running a tad lean, not quite CEL lean, but leaner than stock non-the-less. 180* was a very inexpensive band aid to bring me back almost to stock spec.
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With a 180 thermostat I worry about moisture not burning off the oil. I'll stick with factory temps. Certain amount of heat needed for moisture removal as well as good combustion. Even in factory performance vehicles 180 is and has not been used.
I was doing some towing last year, basically driving 14 hour days for 3 days with a camper and didn't like the temps i was getting. The temp would climb right up and stay there depending on conditions. I'm gonna be changing my transmission rad for a bigger one. I told them to put the biggest one they could basically fit, and i'll see how it will perform after that. I'm expecting a fairly big improvement.



