Borrowed a buddies 20ft haulmark enclosed trailer. It towed fine with the trailer brakes. I would say you would be good with the use of a weight distributing hitch. I didn't use one, but would recommend it for your application.

 

NATE769...good post but I think you missunderstood me about the trailer pushing the truck around. I'm not talking about when you are braking. I'm talking about when you are driving down winding roads as in left to right winding roads (not straight, lol) at 55/60 mph. The trailer will automatically try to push/keep the truck in a straight direction because of the bulk/weight and tandem wheels. Especially with C rated tires, E or D has firmer sidewalls. At the very rear side of your truck, get a grip on the bed rail and violently push the truck side to side and watch your spongy sidewalls sway. Then try the same thing wiht E rated tires on it and it won't budge! That's what the trailer will be doing to your truck while you are driving (not breaking) at 55/60 mph on winding roads and you will feel it. EDIT: To be clear, it won't violenty shake your truck, lol. It will sway the rearend left to right because the weak C rated sidewalls and trailer. Take the tenis shoes off and put some work boots on it, lol.

 

That makes more sense haha...and yes your 100% correct there. The equalizer hitch helps out with that alot too, that and good tires together you would never have any problems...Glad you cleared that up

 

My truck is an RCSB, it doesn't weigh but a buck twenty, lol! I had to put some E's on mine because of that ...works fine/feels safe now when I pull the longer trailers.

 

Your 2011 Ram 4x4 Hemi Sport short box (120.5” WB) is rated at 8850 lbs for towing. I assume you have the factory tow package (hitch, wiring, cooler). I also assume you have the 20” wheels that come with P rated (passenger) tires.

I tow a 24’ enclosed car hauler (100” tall, 8.5’ wide) 4,000 miles every summer with my drag race car, tools ,scooter and more that weighs 7,500 lbs loaded. The trailer is rated for 9,600 GVWR. Prior to this year I pulled it with a 2004 Hemi Durango Limited with 3.92 gears (119” WB) and full tow package rated at 8800 lbs with a weight distribution hitch (NO air bags). The Durango had 17” tires and I had P rated Bridgestone Revos that were supurb. They no longer offer these first generation Revos made in Japan. The Durango weighs 5100 lbs empty. This ride was rock steady at 65 mph behind, between and passing semis with one hand on the wheel. 20 mph side winds didn’t upset it much and always was predictable. What a great tow vehicle.

I replaced the Durango this spring with a 2011 Hemi Ram 4x4 Sport CC, 3.92 antispin, and got the dealer to switch the 20” wheels with the 17” wheels from the SLT in the deal so I could run E rated tires. Rated at 9800 towing this Ram hauls it the same as the Durango but does have more power to maintain speed for uphill towing. Both have the 545 trans. NO air bags.

Based on my experience this is my opinion. Your Ram will easily and safely tow the trailer you’re looking at. Because of the trailers 3500 lb axles it’s only rated at 7,000 GVWR and it has electric brakes. As long as you have the factory tow package you’ll only need a weight distribution hitch (800 lb torsion bars) and a brake controller to pull the trailer. I’d try it with the factory 20” P rated tires and see how it goes. At worst you’d have to put 17” rims with E rated tires on if it swayed at higher freeway speeds. You should scale the trailer and set it for proper tongue weight when towing large loads like a car. I travel to several drag race tracks every year and the half ton Chevy, Dodges and Fords I see many racers pulling 20 to 28’ trailers with no problems. I’ve seen the 07 - 09 Dodges with 20” P rated tires pulling 24’ trailers into the track.

As for your selection in trailers I’m going to give you my opinion from what I’ve seen at the race tracks and talked with others about so PLEASE don’t be offended. The price of the new trailer web link you posted is cheap because the quality is the same…cheap. I’ve seen several of these type Southern Manufacture trailers and looked at them a couple years old that were carrying cars. The upper rear door framing was distorted because of thin bracing. The aluminum sheet exteriors were oil canning because the sheets are wafer thin. The axles were cheap Chinese leaf springs imports with undersized bearings. Siding screws were falling out. They always had an OSB interior to try and make the whole structure more ridged.

Personally I’d look on Craigslist at some used BRAND name trailers (Wells Cargo, Pace, Hallmark and others) to see what better quality looks like. Avoid leaf springs and look for torsion axles. They handle and ride smoother because of higher quality. D rated tires are a must. 6 bolt axles are better than 5 bolt ESPECIALLY on 24’ trailers.

 

This trailer was purchased factory direct in Pearson, Ga. in 2001. It's as solid as any trailer I've seen, is used almost daily and there is NOTHING from China on it. That said, I dunno if it's built by the same company as the one you're looking at. Pearson is like the "trailer capitol of the south" and there are at least three manufacturers there, maybe more...

 

Truck will pull it just fine........If you load the trailer properly,the class 4 hitch will be fine.....JB.

 

I drove Dodge trucks for about 10 yrs and then Chevys for about 10. I beat the crap out of my Chevys over loading and trailering without even thinking about it. I can't do that to My Ram, it's just too damn pretty!

 

Its also a better workhorse! HAHA

 

Yeah, I gotta agree with that. I did a lot around my old house with river rock when I had my '02 Chevy Z71. Did the same type of work around my mom's a few years ago and found I could have a LOT more river rock loaded in the bed of the Ram before it hit the bump stops. Oh and this was before I lifted my Ram or put air bags in it, so it was a fair fight, LOL...