My rear sliding window just quick working. Took a look back there an noticed the cable with the metal knot (for lack of a better word) had pulled free from the plastic housing that makes it open. I've tried to get the cable pulled back up to slip in, but now it's like 2" too short. I tried dripping some oil down there to see if it'd free it up any, but sounds like it's wound up or bound up? Does this mean I have to take out the seat and dig in to fix through there? Are there any quick fixes or ideas? I bought the lifetime warranty with a deductible, but not sure it's worth the deductible to take to the dealership though.

Anyone else had problems with their rear sliding window? I appreciate the advice and feedback. Thanks!!

 

If you had any idea what it costs to replace that back window you would happily pay the deductible.

 

I guess that's part of the problem, I'm not sure what it'd cost. From the sound of it though and the more I think about it ... the more I'm inclined to let them monkey with it. Guess I can wait til spring and see what else goes haywire over the winter!!

 

Do a search on here, i think i`ve seen a few of these on here with this exact problem.
If i remember right, some plastic piece breaks and blows the cable out.

 

I currently have this issue...the cable pulled out, tried fixing it myself, but the plastic piece wedged out and the cable will not stay seated. The stealership is covering under warranty for me, just have to get time off to get in there .... I find it foolish you can't just replace the plastic piece ...they are replacing the whole window. Which sucks bc I have all my windows tinted to 5%...

I'd just pay the deductible if you paid for the warranty.....

 

I have to agree mikey, that just sucks...!
I would make them pay for the truck window to be re-tinted.
Their failed garbage, but YOU pay, go figure. New vehicles, what a loosing battle.

As for replacing the WHOLE window just because a piece of plastic broke.... now THATS some pretty dumb azz engineering right there...!!!!
I`ve stopped using mine in fear of it breaking. Isnt that nice, pay $45 grand and `im in fear of it breaking.
Its built just about as good as the rest of this truck....CHEAP GARBAGE...! But today, what isnt.

 

I love the sliding window and beyond pissed that it's going to be a major project over a POS plastic coupler. I can't see why they'd have to replace the whole window though - I just want the motor and cables replaced! I think I'll wait til spring and see what else goes wrong and then just pay the deductible.

Thanks for the feedback folks!

 

Yesterday I was closing my rear window and the same thing happened. Looked back and the cables popped out of the plastic holders.

I have a 2009 with 43,000 miles on it...i think i only have the 36,000 mile warranty so i guess i'm screwed?

 

Every vehicle in todays world in built CHEAP, just enough quality to pass the safety standards... yet you pay up the ****!

I'm going to try and get them to pay it, if not I talked to the guy who did my 5% tint and he said he'd hook me up $30 to do it since I've brought him business from other people....it might just be worth it to pay the $30 instead of dealing with the dealer and giving myself a brain aneurism trying to deal with the stupidity that comes out of there mouth sometimes.....

I'm not sure call them give them your vin and they could let you know... Call parts and ask how much for the window b/c it might be cheaper and even if you have minimal mechanical knowledge you could do it (prob. just as much as the techs at the dealership lol)

 

Have 2006 Dodge 1500, same sliding window crash a year ago. Out of warranty, dealer can supply only whole new window assembly for almost $4oo then $2-300 installation. Screw that. Cradling the sliding widow is a cheap plastic runner to which the pulling cables are attached. This feeble plastic cradle additionally has a weak section where the pull cable is attached and where all the pulling force is concentrated and breaks. Machine shop wanted $800 to machine a duplicate cradle out of aluminum. Screw that. So I fabricated a cradle helper out of 16 ga steel strap which sits atop the plastic cradle. It spans the window and has slots on either side to which the pull cable attaches instead of to the plastic attachments. It needs to clip the cradle and window for predictable pulling. One of the cradle plastic attachments was already broken off and I cut the other off. Required lots of disassembly to get to the problem and fussing to make it . Additionally the cable jammed inside the take-up spool requiring that to be fixed too. HINT: do not run cable drive motor when cables are loose. Cable tension is required to keep everything on track. Cost was nil in my functional nerd workshop.