DDM is the company that I'm ordering the HIDs from. It was used earlier in the thread.

 

i'm not quite sure what ddm stands for, will get it from a buddy when I see him. its the BMW crowd. pretty sure it is to bmw what jdm is to honda (japanese domestic market) but I could be wrong.

regardless its the best kits I have bought, and if its huge with the bmw guys, I dont think they would go throwing $h!t on their expensive cars

 

Well after looking on their website, I found an article or note that talks about the flickering and it says that you need to install something to prevent it i.e. capacitor or resister. I think I'd rather find a kit that already has it installed. I'm not wanting to be blamed for messing up the kit by soldering on extra components.

 

You should be alright on your 09, they are basically the same as the 11s just improvements. But as far as the lighting part they should be identical. I might be wrong and thats why they say you should get the caps to prevent flickering, either that or they are just throwing in gimmics to make sure you buy it. Either way I have never heard of anyone with flickering issues on the new rams. I did have flickering issues on my 07 and not even a set of caps fixed that. That system was stupid tho cause it was hard to fool that system, not to mention you needed a relay harness to provide the power because the dodge system could not handle the current.

If your not worried about money then yes you should go with the caps. But most of the time what you order with the higher end kits are an electronic digital ballast. The lower qualities are not digital. This is where you don't have to worry about getting the flickering issues. The ballast is able to sense that change in voltage and adjust the output proportionally.
Then what you can get is a resistor/capacitor pack. The resistor is to trick the computer to think there is a resistance on the circuit to imitate there are no burnt out filaments. HIDS have no resistance therefore the dodge computer would recognize that as a burnt out bulb or filament giving you a lamp out light. Sometimes but not all the time they come with incorporated caps that are designed to help out with voltage flow to the lamps in case your ballast looses rated voltage above what the ballast can handle. Basically this pack is just a pack with a male end on one side and a female on the other. It will go in line with your ballast to the trucks system. You don't have to alter the ballast if thats what your thinking of.

You wont find a ballast with this all built in, just because most HID manufactures don't build ballasts specific for each vehicle. They just provide resistors/caps when needed.

Take a look in the DIY section, I have a thread on my HID install there, you might be able to see what I ment by this pack. Not to mention you can see what you are going to get into!

 

Yeah I wasn't expecting the resistor/cap to be built into the ballast, but the kit I bought before had it built into the harness. I seen your DIY, but it's for a quad light setup and it's a 2011. Not sure how much difference that makes, but I know I've had issues before. I guess maybe I'll mess with my old kit a little bit and if I can't get it to work then I'll just order the kit from DDM and go from there. I can solder the extra components on there if I need to. Maybe the kit I had wasn't digital, who knows. I just like the look and extra light output of the HIDs so I want a set for my truck. Especially with the 20+ hours of darkness in the winter up here. HIDs are a godsend. Thanks for the info.

 

Its no different then for a dual. The only thing is you just have one less ballast and bulb, because of this you need to go with either a bi-zenon bulb (dual HID with a movable bulb) or a HID/halogen high. Vs the quad lamp where you have 2 ballasts and bulbs. When the factory plug sends the voltage to the headlights, it sends it on two contacts. The factory plus has three contacts, left one is low, center is ground, right is high beam. For me one ballast is run from the left side and one for the right. You will be running almost the same way except you run on lows, when you switch to the highs, it will either turn on the halogen or move the bulb back bringing the beam up.
I don't know how much I would want to mess with the old kit, you have to remember that this is all controlled by the computer now, so if you start messing with caps and resistors, you have that risk of smoking something, by altering that its now your fault and nothing to do with the HID manufacture. IMO.

I hear you on the whole dark thing, not as much as you do there in alaska, but even here in alberta its dark till 7am and gets dark again by pretty much 5 so HIDs are good...