For Chris B

More frustrated chrysler owners...???? Hmmmmmmm, maybe you can help THIS guy out chris...????
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...-1500-ram.html

 

Hey guys, I know I'm a bit late to this thread, but hoping you can help me with a few questions.

I just bought my 2010 Ram SLT Big Horn 4x4 a couple of months ago and there's now about 78k on it. I also have a whistling sound but it sounds more like its coming from the B-pillar vs the A, but I haven't exactly pinpointed it yet. Anyway, I was wondering what does "rrt" and "tbs" stand for? Is there a way to check to see if the work has been done without taking it to the dealer? (I also haven't had the best dealer experience, but I'm not too interested in getting into that.) Does the work have to be done at the dealer you purchased the truck?

Also, a little off topic, but does anyone here have an annoying little rattle coming from their window/locks control panel? Mine drives me nuts so thinking about getting some sound dampening material installed...

Well thanks for the help in advance! Love my truck otherwise!

 

Sean,

RRT stands for rapid response transmittal and TSB stands for technical service bulletin. Both are covered under warranty. After the warranty is up it is not covered. Sometimes they may turn into a recall at a later date. If that is the case then any costs that you have to pay out of pocket to perform the repair will be reimbursed by sending in your repair receipts after the recall has become official. In order for something to be covered under warranty the work must be done at a Chrysler dealer but does not have to be done at the dealership from which you purchased the vehicle.

If your truck is a club cab the TSB below may help to identify the noise you are hearing. See below.

NUMBER: 23-024-10
GROUP: Body
DATE: November 13, 2010

THIS SERVICE BULLETIN IS ALSO BEING RELEASED AS RAPID RESPONSE
TRANSMITTAL 10-074. ALL APPLICABLE SOLD AND UN-SOLD VIN's HAVE BEEN
LOADED. TO VERIFY THAT THIS SERVICE ACTION IS APPLICABLE TO THE
VEHICLE, USE VIP OR PERFORM A VIN SEARCH IN TECHCONNECT. ALL REPAIRS
ARE REIMBURSABLE WITHIN THE PROVISIONS OF WARRANTY.
SUBJECT:
Windnoise And/Or Rattle From The Rear Door Glass
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves inspecting the rear door glass for rocking from left to right and if
necessary replace the glass clip.
MODELS:
2010 DS RAM 1500 Pickup
NOTE: This bulletin applies to sales code (5ZKS) Club Cab Only vehicles built before
June 09, 2010 (MDH0609XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a windnoise and/or rattle from the rear door glass.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the symptom/condition is experienced proceed to the repair procedure.

 

I've been very pleased with the courtesy and level of service provided by my Dodge dealership. Truck has been great, and any issues I've had have been resolved. Much better dealership experience than I had with Ford or BMW.

 

So what kind of foam and where in the pillar is it placed? Mine sounds like it is from the passenger side in strong head winds and cross winds.

 

I have a 2012 Ram pickup and had a bad wind noise from the A pillar it will go away when you turn on the a/c recirculate button on or off and found the problem. the heater box is warped so 1 of the door will not closed all the way close. Ontario Dodge fixed it and the noise is gone now.

 

I have a 2014 noticed the same thing sounds like it is coming from the front window but hard to pinpoint . Pissed off you spend a small fortune on a truck that does this

 

Ram brand speaks of all this quality, but yet they`re STILL plagued with alot of the same issues that were there in the 2009`s. They need to be told that their pixie dust isnt working.

I agree with you clarke, it ****`s me to no end for what we spend to purchase these vehicles today, and "stupid" quality problems STILL persist.

 

"Quality Control" (or sometimes a lack thereof) also has to extend to the suppliers. What I believe may be happening is the door seals are of a marginal quality to begin with, and are simply wearing out prematurely.

The (Ram) trucks don't have this problem when new, and I do not recall reading of this same issue in the Ford, Tundra, GMC/Chevy forums, so I'm a bit inclined to look at the supplier of these seals as the root cause.

After experiencing the same problem and having the dealer replace the entire door seal (driver's side only) it's fixed, though I notice now that I have to use a bit more force in closing the door.

As an aside, today's prices are what steers me toward the 18~24 month-old, low-mileage lease returns that often wind up at at the grey market resellers like CarMAX.