X 3 on older vehicles!

Had a '91 1500 GMC Sierra, lots of issues from the get go, but nothing complex that couldn't be handled in my garage. Thank heavens gas was cheaper then, my truck pulled 9 mpg, lol!

 

x4 on older vehicles as well....

Remember when everything was so simple?!? For example...voltage regulator would go out, you could buy one for $50 (roughly)...now the manufactures put the VR in the alternator so when that goes bad you have to replace the whole thing for a couple hundred...simple things like this are so damn annoying.

 

I still have the original battery in my 04 SRT. It may be the first battery I replace before it is dead. I worry about it everytime I push the button.

 

UPDATE #2: Well, went to use the truck last night, DEAD as a doornail. There goes $140 bucks on a new battery from O'rielleys. I swapped in the factory battery to get it to the stealership. Its gonna be $105 dollars at least for the diagnostic. I noticed that the stealership I go to has all new service writers so hopefully, some improved service is going on there. I hope that the bad reviews from myself and others made an impact. Anyway, Im already looking at old trucks. Im just going to dump the truck off at the Carmax if they offer me anything over 22k for it. I was doing some thinking, since Ive had the truck, I have probably spent over $2K in repairs and service(tune ups, fixes not including wear items and oil changes) in the 30 months ive had it. I ran my 92 GMC for over 5 years, my step brother ran it for another 4 after me, I think combined we didnt put that much into repairs and service, I think we only took it to someone else for work maybe 3 times total, one of them was $900 to have the manual trans rebuilt. The whole point of having a newer vehicle and payments is the trade off of having a vehicle that theoretically, is reliable and you shouldn't have to put money into. Im so done being on this hamster wheel. My wife wants me to trade it in for a Sierra Denali, I told her why? so I can be paying even larger payments and be in the same boat I am in now for 2 years? No thanks, Im going back to basics, screw this lol

 

Next time, go to Harbor Freight tools and buy one of these multimeters

http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html

They are good for up to 20 Amps. Set it up to read amps and connect between the battery + and the cable to see what kind of current draw you have while the truck is off. When you first hook it up, the draw is higher as the computers and all of the self diagnostics happen. After a minute or two, you will see the current draw settle. If you have high current draw, more than 1 amp, pull fuses one at a time until the current drops. It's fairly easy to do. Another thing about buying the new battery, you can take it back - besides, yours did test good. Good luck

 

UPDATE #3: Stealership called me around 4 (that was a first, they have never called me, I had always had to call them numerous times for any tidbit of info) They found one of the power seat modules was not turning off and was drawing 2 amps after the truck had been shut off, so they reset it, cost me 62 dollars, I guess they waived the $105 dollar diagnostic fee. Well see tomorrow AM if that fixed it

 

Thanks for the update. That's why the powerseat modules should be ignition activated, but I can see the reasoning behind why they aren't. Push the auto-memory before you get in and your short wife isn't forcing your knees to the steering wheel before you can put the key in and change seat settings....lol

 

hahahaha! BINGO! They got that part right