I did a search but didnt seem to find an answer I need. The truck was driven last night, everything was fine, no issues, just like any other day. Heres the issue, wife wanted to take the truck to work this morning but she couldnt get either of the key FOBS to unlock the truck (oh boy...) so I opened it up manually, first thing I noticed was no dome light. I tried to start it but NOTHING, no solenoid click, no dash lights, NOTHING. I then went to take the key out of the ignition but couldnt. So I disconnected the NEG cable for about a minute and reconnected it. As soon as the cable touched the post an odd clicking coming from up near the radiator on the drivers side, like a relay switching on and off began repeatedly and the flashers came on. I tried to start it and again, other than the described symptoms above, nothing happened other than my key being stuck in the ignition again. So I disconnected the NEG cable again, this time I left it off for a few hours. I went out hours later and attempted to reconnect the NEG cable, but as soon as I touched the post, the horn went off and flashers came on. So I left the cable off but was able to get my key out of the ignition(I had left it in there while the battery was disconnected).

The truck is 3 years old(duh) so I guess it is possibly due for a battery, but the truck has been running great up until this morning, and if the battery just all the sudden died, how can the alarm be working? If the battery was just weak, wouldnt the horn sound like its about to die too? Im confused and I have a feeling that whatever is wrong with it isnt covered under the glorious 2009 lifetime powertrain warrantee. I REEEEEALLLLLY dont want to have it towed to any of the stealerships around here

 

Sounds like maybe something was left on or ? Sounds like a battery issue.
Battery is not POWERTRAIN. A alternator is not power train.. Most last longer then the warranty. Charge the battery on a 2 amp change and look for any accessories left on.

 

Fasst,

What radio do you have? Do you use the UConnect system? Was someone using the UConnect system the night before the car would not start?

I could only find one TSB on a battery drain issue. See below.

NUMBER: 08-001-11 REV. A
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: March 05, 2011

SUBJECT:
RER, REW, REP Radio Software Enhancements
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves upgrading the software on the RER, REW, or REP Radio.
MODELS:
2010 - 2011 (DJ) 2500 Pickup
2010 - 2011 (D2) 3500 Pickup
**2009** - 2011 (DS) 1500 Pickup
**2009** - 2011 (MK) Compass / Patriot
**2009** - 2011 (PM) Caliber
**2008** - 2011 (WK) Grand Cherokee
**2008** - 2011 (KK) Liberty
**2007** -2011 (JK) Wrangler
**2007** - 2011 (JS) Avenger / Sebring
**2007** - 2011 (KA) Nitro
**2008** - 2010 (LC) Challenger
**2008** - 2010 (LE) 300
**2008** - 2010 (XH) Commander
**2008** - 2010 (WH) Grand Cherokee
NUMBER: 08-001-11 REV. A
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: March 05, 2011
**2008** - 2010 (RT) Caravan / Town & Country
**2008** - 2010 (LX) 300 / Charger
**2008** - 2010 (ND) Dakota
**2008** - 2009 (XK) Commander
**2008 - 2009 (HB) Durango**
**2008 - 2009 (HG) Aspen**
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built with an AM/FM/CD/DVD/HDD/MP3 W/
NAV Radio (sales code RER) or an MW/FM CD MP3 NAV Radio - EURO (sales
code REW) or an AM/FM CD MP3 NAV Radio - ROW (sales code REP).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
· The radio may lock up when a U-Connect call ends, this may cause battery drain.
· Intermittent no sound from audio system.
· Repeated **“Updating Channels”** message when in satellite radio mode.
· **iPhone4 (4.2.1) losing Bluetooth connection intermittently and not displaying
accurate caller ID information when using UConnect**

 

If it is the orginal battery, that is where I would start. Just short of three years mine went dead. Was fine the night before, next morning tried to start the truck and got a clicking from the starter, wipers swept, etc. New batter fixed it all.

 

It does have the u-connect system however, it was not in use the night before. Im going to take the battery to get it tested while im at work and go from there. Maybe its dead enought to make the truck go crazy but not dead enough to run certain functions. I appreciate the help guys ill keep you all posted.

 

Batteries are so easy to test, with in reason, on your own. Honk your horn, is it loud or weak?? If loud your battery is powerful enough to light up lights and operate your remote locks, your issue is elsewhere.

If your battery terminals are tight and the battery seems OK I would check the main fuse box under the hood.

 

Little update, took the battery to Autojoke and it tested out good, so what that means is its a bad battery lol. Went to o'reilleys and picked up a fresh battery. So far so good, its only sat for about 5 hours at a time so far, but the real test is if it holds a charge overnight, I think im in the clear. I hate these new vehicles. Any little problem I panic because I have no idea where to start. Im honestly tempted to dump it and get an old Chevy and get off the new truck hamster wheel. Anyway simple solution to a simple problem, disguised as a big problem

 

Agreed on older truck. I miss my old '91 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban. 12mpg but paid for.

 

A battery with one dead cell will still test good. I think it takes 2 dead cells on the 65-2 series batteries before the Current drain of the starter puts stress on it not allowing it to start, and before their testers show it's bad.

I had to replace my battery exactly at the 3yr mark! It would go dead within 1 week of sitting. I still have the battery on my shelf and use it for emergency lighting back-up for power outage in my garage. I havent charged it and it still reads 12v 1 yr of sitting on my shelf, BUT if I put significant current drain on it to jump start my car(tried it) the battery goes dead INSTANTLY! I've ran a 55w foglight that i mounted to the battery for my back-up light cource and have run that light several times and yet the battery remains around 12v. It's the loading that kills it.

I noticed my battery take 3weeks to die, then 2 weeks and then 1 week. I suspect multiple cells have died and wont hold a charge. It only take 1 cell out of 6 in a battery to show 12v. If you have 3 good cells you have 400CCA rather than 800CCA...etc

 

My 2003 Dodge 3500 with Cummins has the original batterys! The 1998 Dodge 1500 I had bfore the 2009 the battery went 7 years.