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Warped Rotors at 15,000 miles!

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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 09:36 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gunnysack2
Had an 02 warped in 6000 mi . They turned them, and was even worse! Once warped the are shot in my opinion.They can put a dial caliper on them to see how far there out.
Years ago you could get your rotors turned and they would be good for another while but I don't think they treat the metal like they used to so they basically just scrape off the heat treated surface and you are left with softer metal underneath.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #22  
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I had my rotors cut when the brakes were done, front and back. No issue with softer metal or anything. Used upgraded pads and the truck stops great with no pulsating, never had any to begin with. I will say that I've had the brakes overheat a few of times going down some really steep grades in the California Eastern Sierras and in the Colorado Rockies. I could smell them and feel them fading and got no warping. Part of the key is to let them cool down before parking the truck. In my opinion, the Ram could use bigger rotors up front.

Also, when getting the slotted/drilled rotors, don't cheap out. Get the best you can afford. You will find the prices all over the place. The cheap ones will crack.
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 07:19 AM
  #23  
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All my cars and trucks have made it to near 100k before I needed brakes. My 09' Ram seized up at 30k. Total new brake job. These brakes are undersized for these trucks. My Honda Pilot has bigger rotors than these trucks.
 
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Old May 27, 2014 | 08:03 AM
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Mine is at 102K, on its second set of pads. Rotors are starting to look like they should be swapped out, pretty good lip on the edge of them. I'll put back on Mopar rotors since the original ones wore so well.


I'm really wondering what is going on with some of your brakes if you are destroying them at 30K.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:45 AM
  #25  
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My rear rotors warped at 10K miles and Mopar said that the warranty does cover front rotors, but not rear. I now have 60K and the vibration is worse so time to change. I normally used OEM pads and rotors, but I had such a bad experience with the junk OEM rotors..... I am going to use aftermarket. I need some recommendations from those of you that have changed them out.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Bill
My rear rotors warped at 10K miles and Mopar said that the warranty does cover front rotors, but not rear. I now have 60K and the vibration is worse so time to change. I normally used OEM pads and rotors, but I had such a bad experience with the junk OEM rotors..... I am going to use aftermarket. I need some recommendations from those of you that have changed them out.


FWIW, I bought some raybestos pro rotors since I couldn't get the Mopar ones quick enough for a decent price. Haven't used them yet. Rears will get replaced eventually but are still OK (pads are original)


That being said since I got 103K on my factory rotors, I'm not sure that the Mopar rotors are necessarily the issue.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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The rotors were my problem. The dealer said they had several sets with issues, but Dodge would not cover the rears because many are over heated by drivers not releasing the parking brake. I told them that I had never used my parking brake, but they still would not cover it. I don't feel like rewarding them financially by buying more of the same junk. I never had any brake issues with my 95 or 02 Rams and I had over 100K on each. These rotors warped in only a few thousand miles and they were never over heated.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #28  
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I'm about to pull the trigger on brakes all around. Powerstop Extreme Truck and Tow - Drilled and slotted rotors and looks like decent pads. Anyone have any experience or luck with these? Under $400 for the complete kit.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 07:07 PM
  #29  
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Subscribed. I am not in need of pads or rotors yet but want to upgrade from the stockers. Interested in the powerstop set you are talking about Mat.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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I never have used, nor will I ever use, drilled or slotted rotors. Zero benefit and negative attributes as well. They use to drill rotors to allow gasses to escape that built up between pad and rotor. With modern materials, that is no longer needed. Many race cars don't even run them anymore. Brakes work due to friction. If you decrease surface area by drilling/slotting, you are decreasing braking. Brakes also need to dissipate heat. Mass dissipates heat, drilling removes that mass, therefore less cooling. Lastly, drilling a cast item weakens it, making it prone to failure.
 
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