2011 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, just had the dealership replace the original motor which had bent pushrods with a used (not remanned but purdy) 57,000 mile 5.7 Hemi. The engine cover is not flat anymore, but shaped like the top of an intake manifold. 16 new spark plugs.

On-board computer starts out with oil pressure around 57-60 psi and it settles down to 35 when oil temp reaches about 180. Only put about 40 miles on it since the replacement, seems to run fine.

However, back at the ranch... wife's Honda needed a radiator replacement and that book calls for a burping procedure which entails a warm-up procedure at 1500 rpm, hooked up the bluetooth obd2 reader and set up some displays related to coolant temp, rpm, engine load, timing adjustment, intake temp and throttle %. Honda did fine, didn't expect exact rpm, but it stayed pretty close when holding accelerator in one spot.
remembered the dodge dealership was making me wait while the tech burped the coolant system on the newer hemi so decided to plug the obd2 into the ram when swapping positions in the garage at the ranch all in the name of science i guess.

So the hemi comes down to idle and it's going from 630-670 rpm instead of just holding 650. wasn't noticed by ear until had the doohicky hooked up and could match the numbers on the screen with the noise from the kitten.

Went to go hold at 1500 rpm and the thing is wonky with +/-200 rpm. the throttle position on the obd2 stays the same (i'd give numbers but don't have it on video playback, like 14.2% throttle holds steady) while the timing on the screen is bouncing around dancing along with the rpm

got the thing warm and coolant seems to top out temperature-wise at 194F, dropping down to 190 before coming back up and holding 194.

with the bad motor i noticed a tap when warm, so asked the mopar dealership to see what it was about, but not before topping it off with 89 octane to retard the timing (cuz it was in the owner's manual that 89 is ok and thought the tap might've been related to timing, uneducated decision but anyways) that was a little over 3 weeks ago and the thing sat at the dealership while the newer motor came to rest under the hood, about 40 miles and a day ago.

already called the dealership back earlier in the day when the oil pressure seemed high (the old motor was at about 54psi on startup). he said it was just calculations from the onboard computer and if i was concerned to bring it up there so they could put an analog guage in some orifice and figure it out, but it wasn't super danger zone and the pressure did come down to normal.

thought about calling the shop back again but they're not in the business of schooling the customer on these motors. they would just want it back in and likely charge more shop time and find more parts to replace and it could just be me being uneducated.

i'm a new mopar virgin and bought the ram used from a honda dealership with an extended nation-wide warranty (from a former dodge salesman lol), noticed the noise after a few days and thankfully got hooked up like mr taft coming out of the shower. since i'm new to these motors i don't know what to expect other than what i've heard from joe dirt.

i did notice when i bought it new that the fuel pump stayed on when the key was set to acc. reading through the chiltons mentioned the pump not working and that the tipm would need replaced even when the dealer would recommend a new pump. online i found the same answer but a website that offered remanned tipms for $400 and diagnostic wires to determine if the pump worked by jumping fuses in the box.

instead of the previous owner forking over the cash to replace the tipm, turns out he bought one of those $25 fused and gauged wire from some guy online and jumped it from the key-on cigarette lighter fuse over to the fuse that runs the fuel pump, probably called it good and traded it in at honda. he also kept my owner's manual from the glove box and the emergency jack and tire tool, and he didn't replace the brakes and rotors that are beyond machining. but he left an adult movie in the dvd player so can't complain. anyways, the dealership said they could wire an external relay in there for about $200 and that will be next on the list since the warranty repair wasn't free. i'm told it won't be dumping fuel into the cylinders since it's direct port injection and as long as i'm not hanging out at the drive-in listening to tunes, i won't kill the battery.

so, to make a long story complete, time for my question(s)

should i be able to hold a hemi at 1500 rpms like i would a vtec? or is this one of those heritage deals like a harley who is proud to be flawed by design? (i've heard that hemispherical heads were great until computer models found better ways to get horsies)

what would cause this?

is there a reset procedure i can do? i noticed my radio stations are still all there and i read somewhere that these computer motors try to remember their driver's habits

is there a way for me to tune the thing?

my imagination tells me that there are just too many engineers out there trying to micromanage these things to death and this jumpy rpm is just a result of 'i'm smart so now it's better'. i'm still stewing over the fact that we don't have accelerator cables any more and we use computers to fly by wire. i would think that if a cam sensor was off then the thing just wouldn't run and would also imagine a not-running result from a tipm issue. i was not getting the eco light coming on telling me it was cutting 4 cylinders while parked in the driveway, but i was getting an rpm variance and a fast-changing timing adjustment which was either leading or following it, even with the pedal steady and the throttle position staying still on the obd2

2011 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, just had the dealership replace the original motor which had bent pushrods with a used (not remanned but purdy) 57,000 mile 5.7 Hemi. The engine cover is not flat anymore, but shaped like the top of an intake manifold. 16 new spark plugs.

On-board computer starts out with oil pressure around 57-60 psi and it settles down to 35 when oil temp reaches about 180. Only put about 40 miles on it since the replacement, seems to run fine.

However, back at the ranch... wife's Honda needed a radiator replacement and that book calls for a burping procedure which entails a warm-up procedure at 1500 rpm, hooked up the bluetooth obd2 reader and set up some displays related to coolant temp, rpm, engine load, timing adjustment, intake temp and throttle %. Honda did fine, didn't expect exact rpm, but it stayed pretty close when holding accelerator in one spot.
remembered the dodge dealership was making me wait while the tech burped the coolant system on the newer hemi so decided to plug the obd2 into the ram when swapping positions in the garage at the ranch all in the name of science i guess.

So the hemi comes down to idle and it's going from 630-670 rpm instead of just holding 650. wasn't noticed by ear until had the doohicky hooked up and could match the numbers on the screen with the noise from the kitten.

Went to go hold at 1500 rpm and the thing is wonky with +/-200 rpm. the throttle position on the obd2 stays the same (i'd give numbers but don't have it on video playback, like 14.2% throttle holds steady) while the timing on the screen is bouncing around dancing along with the rpm

got the thing warm and coolant seems to top out temperature-wise at 194F, dropping down to 190 before coming back up and holding 194.

with the bad motor i noticed a tap when warm, so asked the mopar dealership to see what it was about, but not before topping it off with 89 octane to retard the timing (cuz it was in the owner's manual that 89 is ok and thought the tap might've been related to timing, uneducated decision but anyways) that was a little over 3 weeks ago and the thing sat at the dealership while the newer motor came to rest under the hood, about 40 miles and a day ago.

already called the dealership back earlier in the day when the oil pressure seemed high (the old motor was at about 54psi on startup). he said it was just calculations from the onboard computer and if i was concerned to bring it up there so they could put an analog guage in some orifice and figure it out, but it wasn't super danger zone and the pressure did come down to normal.

thought about calling the shop back again but they're not in the business of schooling the customer on these motors. they would just want it back in and likely charge more shop time and find more parts to replace and it could just be me being uneducated.

i'm a new mopar virgin and bought the ram used from a honda dealership with an extended nation-wide warranty (from a former dodge salesman lol), noticed the noise after a few days and thankfully got hooked up like mr taft coming out of the shower. since i'm new to these motors i don't know what to expect other than what i've heard from joe dirt.

i did notice when i bought it new that the fuel pump stayed on when the key was set to acc. reading through the chiltons mentioned the pump not working and that the tipm would need replaced even when the dealer would recommend a new pump. online i found the same answer but a website that offered remanned tipms for $400 and diagnostic wires to determine if the pump worked by jumping fuses in the box.

instead of the previous owner forking over the cash to replace the tipm, turns out he bought one of those $25 fused and gauged wire from some guy online and jumped it from the key-on cigarette lighter fuse over to the fuse that runs the fuel pump, probably called it good and traded it in at honda. he also kept my owner's manual from the glove box and the emergency jack and tire tool, and he didn't replace the brakes and rotors that are beyond machining. but he left an adult movie in the dvd player so can't complain. anyways, the dealership said they could wire an external relay in there for about $200 and that will be next on the list since the warranty repair wasn't free. i'm told it won't be dumping fuel into the cylinders since it's direct port injection and as long as i'm not hanging out at the drive-in watching movies, i won't kill the battery.

so, to make a long story complete, time for my question(s)

should i be able to hold a hemi at 1500 rpms like i would a vtec? or is this one of those heritage deals like a harley who is proud to be flawed by design? (i've heard that hemispherical heads were great until computer models found better head designs to get horsies)

what would cause this? am i trying a touchy rpm range?

is there a reset procedure i can do? i noticed my radio stations are still all there and i read somewhere that these computer motors try to remember their driver's habits

is there a way for me to tune the thing?

my imagination tells me that there are just too many engineers out there trying to micromanage these things to death and this jumpy rpm is just a result of 'i'm smart so now it's better'. i'm still stewing over the fact that we don't have accelerator cables any more and we use computers to fly by wire. don't act like there's no difference because there is definitely lag when it comes to computerizing a mechanical part. but i don't expect an engineer to understand that...

i would think that if a cam sensor was off then the thing just wouldn't run and would also imagine a not-running result from a tipm issue. i was not getting the eco light coming on telling me it was cutting 4 cylinders while parked in the driveway, but i was getting an rpm variance and a fast-changing timing adjustment which was either leading or following it, even with the pedal steady and the throttle position staying still on the obd2