Needing some help!
#11
01-11-2018, 12:50 PM
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An oil/filter debate can be a long deep hole really fast, LOl! ....
I had been running Mobil for awhile but I quit using it. I was finding that the Mobil was always clean on the dipstick. I really didn't like that. Even towards the end of my oil change intervals the dipstick level would drop, yet the oil still showed remarkably clean. The engine would get a noisy valve train and start burning oil, a prime indicator that it is time to change it, but sampling would show nice fairly clean oil. To me an oil that stays clean/amber isn't doing its very important secondary job of cleaning, disolving, and suspending contaminants. A clean run gives me the impression of like trying to wash the grease off you hands with water and no soap. The water stays nice and clean but your hands are still dirty, no matter how long your rinse or rub. I am not saying to not use Mobil. Just saying that I didn't like it and went to something else. "Others' mileage may vary."
The want is for long life out of the oil and filter, however I also really want to see the oil get progressively dirtier over runtime, that is one of the windows into knowing what is going on in there. To the point, I quit changing oil on odometer mileage a long time ago. I go by how the engine is behaving and the color of the oil. If the engine is getting noisy and ticketty, change oil. If it starts to burn oil excessively, change oil. If all seems good but the oil is getting dark to black, change oil. The result is some oil changes happen at 2000 miles, and others at 6000+ miles. It just depends on the driving conditions and what the engine is telling me.
As for what oil to choose, there is a high risk of this thread going down that hole and turning into a "Hey look!, Another oil thread!". To package wrap the answer to your seemingly simple question: Run the spec oil weight for your engine from your manual. Stick with a top well established name brand oil that is readily available in your area. Do some research on each of the options and pick one. Run it for a few oil change cycles and see what you get. You can change to a different product at any time, no harm done. You will eventually land on one that your engine likes based on overall oil performance between cycles, and one that you like based on your wallet. (nb: the most expensive is not necessarily the best, neither is simply defaulting to synthetics).
I had been running Mobil for awhile but I quit using it. I was finding that the Mobil was always clean on the dipstick. I really didn't like that. Even towards the end of my oil change intervals the dipstick level would drop, yet the oil still showed remarkably clean. The engine would get a noisy valve train and start burning oil, a prime indicator that it is time to change it, but sampling would show nice fairly clean oil. To me an oil that stays clean/amber isn't doing its very important secondary job of cleaning, disolving, and suspending contaminants. A clean run gives me the impression of like trying to wash the grease off you hands with water and no soap. The water stays nice and clean but your hands are still dirty, no matter how long your rinse or rub. I am not saying to not use Mobil. Just saying that I didn't like it and went to something else. "Others' mileage may vary."
The want is for long life out of the oil and filter, however I also really want to see the oil get progressively dirtier over runtime, that is one of the windows into knowing what is going on in there. To the point, I quit changing oil on odometer mileage a long time ago. I go by how the engine is behaving and the color of the oil. If the engine is getting noisy and ticketty, change oil. If it starts to burn oil excessively, change oil. If all seems good but the oil is getting dark to black, change oil. The result is some oil changes happen at 2000 miles, and others at 6000+ miles. It just depends on the driving conditions and what the engine is telling me.
As for what oil to choose, there is a high risk of this thread going down that hole and turning into a "Hey look!, Another oil thread!". To package wrap the answer to your seemingly simple question: Run the spec oil weight for your engine from your manual. Stick with a top well established name brand oil that is readily available in your area. Do some research on each of the options and pick one. Run it for a few oil change cycles and see what you get. You can change to a different product at any time, no harm done. You will eventually land on one that your engine likes based on overall oil performance between cycles, and one that you like based on your wallet. (nb: the most expensive is not necessarily the best, neither is simply defaulting to synthetics).
#12
01-11-2018, 01:12 PM
A poorly functioning PCV system can easily account for 1/2 to 2 quarts in an oil change cycle. At 2 1/2 quarts in a 1000 miles, hmmmmmmm, there may be some more issues. The thing is each one of them cumulative. Pick them off and address them one by one, consumption will go down bit by bit. Good luck, let us know how things progress :TU:
#13
01-11-2018, 05:47 PM
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A poorly functioning PCV system can easily account for 1/2 to 2 quarts in an oil change cycle. At 2 1/2 quarts in a 1000 miles, hmmmmmmm, there may be some more issues. The thing is each one of them cumulative. Pick them off and address them one by one, consumption will go down bit by bit. Good luck, let us know how things progress :TU: