From my previous post, I replaced my fuel pump solved the hard starting and losing fuel in the fuel rail..... now a new problem, after installing the new fuel pump and reinstalling the tank. When I
put the negative battery cable back on the pump continued to run with the key out of the ignition.... now I assume that that is what caused my other fuel pump not to work correctly slowly burning it up.
So now I am disconnecting the negative cable when stopped so to stop the pump from running. Could it be a relay or ignition switch ?

Thanks
Jeff

 

Please include the year, model, and engine in this post (most of us don't want to have to look for your previous post). I'd be inclined to think the issue might be with the TIPM, but knowing the vehicle details to look at a wiring diagram would help determine if that's likely or not.

-Rod

 

HI SHO Rod, sorry for the over site. It's a 2011 ram 1500 SLT with the 4.7. I had a problem with this before and replaced the fuel pump about 5 years ago only to find out it was the TIPM so I had dodge dealer replace that.
It seems now that the new fuel pump is always running even with the key out.

Thanks
Jeff

 

If you're wanting to diagnose this, the first thing I'd do is see if you have voltage across fuse M25 (20A) in the TIPM when the key is Off. If so, then you need to determine if the TIPM is getting signal to activate the fuel pump relay or if the issue is the fuel pump relay within the TIPM. Still with the key off, check for battery voltage across fuse M33 (10A) in the TIPM. That fuse should only have power when the key is in Run or Start. If you have power on this fuse with the key Off, post back with that result as it will take some interesting diagnosis.

Assuming you don't have power across fuse M33 with the key Off, then check for power and ground at wire A40 in the C1 connector to the TIPM. This could be a bit tricky to measure, but this is the trigger from the PCM to activate the fuel pump relay. Unfortunately, I cannot really tell from the wiring diagram if this should be power or ground to trigger the relay. Standard convention would suggest this signal will be pulled to ground to activate the relay, but I'm not 100% positive on that. I may have to do some more digging to see if I can get confirmation on that.

-Rod

 

I looked at the diagram for my 2014 Ram 1500 and it appears to be very similar to the 2011 diagram. The PCM trigger to the fuel pump relay in the 2014 is a ground signal to activate the relay.

-Rod

 

could the relay have fused together in the on position? may need fuel pump relay mod?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sl...Pv5XM78Y_fD9de

 

Exactly my thoughts, his fuel pump is nearing its end of life and drawing excessive amps which caused the relay contacts to fuse together.

 

Hi SHO Rod, thanks for the info. There is power at the M25 fuse with key off on the relay side. Fuse M33 only has power with the Key on.
I did not have a chance to check the wire at A40 in the C1 connector. I will have to locate it first.
Thanks for your help
Jeff

 

Thanks Robert Jones and dakootie, I will have to look in to the work around. The recall didn't cover my vehicle sadly enough I had to have my TIPM replaced about 5 years ago, It cracked underneath right at the fuse for the fuel pump...... It acted like the fuel pump went bad and I replace it but same problem then dodge dealer first told me the fuel pump was bad I told them no just replaced it 3 days ago they checked again and found the TIPM cracked, it was out of warranty by about 4000 miles so they would not cover it or help with reduced cost. Truck was only 2 1/2 yrs old.at the time.
Thanks for your help !
Jeff

 

So far your diagnosis is looking like a stuck fuel pump relay, but confirming whether or not you have ground at A40 with the key off will further help confirm that's the case. You could also check pin 23 on connector C130 if you happen to know where that is, or pin C37 on connector C3 at the PCM if either of those connections are easier to get to.

-Rod