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ESP BAS light on 2010 1500

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Old 03-04-2019, 08:12 AM
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Default ESP BAS light on 2010 1500

I swapped out the front calipers on my Dodge yesterday and bled the brakes. Now the brake light that is usually on when your e-brake is engaged is on, ESP BAS in the center and the light showing the traction control is off is lit. Did I mess up bleeding my brakes and just need to redo it? I have plenty of petal and its stopping great. Better than it has in a while, probably due to all new components on the front. Also there is a bit too much fluid in the reservoir at the moment, as every guide I saw said to fill it up before bleeding so that I don't run it dry.

Thanks!!!
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 09:44 AM
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Did you bleed the rears as well? I would suspect the proportioning valve is out of joint, and just needs reset. (bleed the rears.)
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 09:57 AM
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Could be a few things.

Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:20 AM
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I did not bleed the rears, I will try this and see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TrueDogman
Could be a few things.

Did you disturb the wheel speed sensors ? Are they properly connected?
Could be air still in front brake system?
There is a valve and switch that senses hydraulic pressure differential between front and back brakes. When you bled front brakes this valve and switch sensed different pressures and activated your light and faults. Usually once bleeding is finished pressure equalizes and the valve and switch return to normal and the fault lights go off. Sometimes driving a very short distance to get the electronics working will clear the faults.
Try stomping on the brake pedal quickly and firmly. This may persuade the valve and switch to return to a normal position if its a tad stuck.
If not try bleeding the brakes again and ensure you have no leaks. If you have any small leak the light will never go off
I'll try all of this, I have been checking as well as I can for leaks since I finished and haven't seen any, but to really be sure I need to lift the truck and remove the tire. I was so worn out as I am WAY out of shape, from this little bit of work yesterday I haven't done that yet.

Thanks!!
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 09:02 PM
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The ABS primes itself at startup. As soon as you turn the truck on, the ABS goes through electrical tests and then pumps the system and checks to make sure there is enough hydraulic pressure in the brake line. Sounds like you may have induced air into the system. There is no need to bleed bakes if you didn't loose any fluid.
 



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