do you need to have the cylinder keyed to match the other locks? or does putting the key in and turning like you say "set up" the tumblers?

 

Nope.

Putting your key in the lock and turning it sets your key to the handle key cylinder.

 

Adding a Mopar remote control lock to Smoothbassmans excellent post.

Got tired of waiting on autoanything and they flat out lied to me.
So.

You need the parts smoothbassman list if you want the lock. I wanted the failsafe of a key so I got the locking handle and the remote solenoid.

Dodge dealer took 2 days to get ALL the parts needed.
Here is what you need to add the Mopar remote.
Locking Rear Tailgate and Keyless Lock Actuator. $245.92 for the locking handle and the remote solonoid assembly. Parts guy said he gave me a discount. I am a regular.
You can buy the locking tailgate as explained by smoothbassman.
You can buy just the remote solonoid assembly to add to your handle, HAS TO BE A LOCKING HANDLE Assembly. Solonoid attaches to that long arm in the pictures. Not on the stock assembly.
Or you can buy both the locking handle and the remote at a discount.
Included
(2) 5/32" rivets, lots of tie wraps, short wiring harness, long wiring harness.
Actuator mounting braket, small bracket, solonoid, 4 screws, 2 wire crimps, 2 pieces of heat shrink tube
Tools.
It comes with 2 rivets so you need a small.. rivet tool.
Wire strippers
Crimpers
Phillips head driver.
#20 Torx bit
Drill and 5/32" bit.

and all the parts and tools described by Smoothbassman.
I bookmarked this post for this day. Thanks for this post.

The instructions in the kit are good for the meachnical part.
I will not explain that. Will tell you its fairly easy but much harder than just the lock.
Main Bracket mounts to the 2 bolts holding the lock in and one of the bolts/nuts holding the handle to the assembly. Have to hold the 3 parts in place and screw things together.
I propped up the solonoid so it would be level and not fighting me....see the pictures.

Wiring
Follow the rear lights loom.
The mopar solonoid unit wiring connects out in the engine bay using the main fuse panel. "TIPM"
Instructions tell you to locate and disconnect terminal C-5. Mine was marked "C". Easy to do!
Its the only brown terminal and it tells you its brown.
Tells you to splice into circuit P34 and P38. Gives you a diagram showing where these parts are on the terminal. DO NOT DO THIS...the instructions are wrong. Both in the fuse block and from the remote solonoid...wrong colors...wrong terminals.
Took me a while, here you go.
Red from solonoid - Tan with green stripe
Black from solonoid - Tan with white stripe.

Both in Brown terminal "C"....my truck anyhow. Production 11/08.

I should have taken pictures while I had the fuse block underneath exposed. Sarted getting dark. Sorry.
Open it, Remove the nut holding the red cable. Remove the cable from the threaded post.
Take out the (3) #20 torx screws, use a flat head screwdriver to release it from the battery mount assembly. Pull up. There is plenty of slack.

Wiring harness with/from the solonoid is one red and one black.

Some pics...yeeha, Altair showed me my error.... Now I can do an signature with my truck and you can admire it every time I post.

First picture shows orentation or that main bracket and how the solonoid is attched.
That second picture shows the two rivets that attach a little traingle shaped bracket. Can't really see the bracket but its there. The Solonoid attaches to that bracket you riveted in place after drilling the two 5/32" holes.
That wire loom is two part. One just longer than the gate so there is a connection by the spare tire...Up to you to make this easy or hard to get at for gate removal. Comes with nice clips made on the loom to secure the wire to the gate. Comes with lots of Zip Ties for the run to the engine bay.





The hardest part was those two little screws that hold the solonoid mount. Hard to get a tool on.
Figuring out the wires but I have a tool for that. that was just annoying.
Wired it backwards first...50/50 chance..of course it was going to be backwards.
Lock the door, unlock the gate. Unlock the door, lock the gate. Switch the wires as I mention above. If yours is different and does the backwards thing with those colors.
Switch them.

and the parts guy gave me a cylinder too. Locking handle comes with cylinder, tell you parts guy that. Set it with the key as explained.

I say again this remote solonoid will not work on the stock non locking handle. Must have the locking handle. In my head that was a must anyhow. Lock it with a key or the remote..unlock if dead or broken solonoid being the bigger deal.

As always, when dealing with electrics in an automobile. Disconnect the negative battery cable first.

My take.
If you like working on your cars; as I do; its easy and satisfying. The handiness of this is great and its just cool. Hit the fob "lock" and EVERYTHING locks.
If you are not machnically inclinded let the dealer do it and get the warranty...pay labor.
The LK170 is the cheaper route and I suppose it works on a regular handle. I am glad I spent the extra money and went all Mopar...and its done, and done right...not waiting on anythingauto.

Cheers Blue
Thanks again for this post Smoothbassman. Hope you do not mind me adding a remote to it.

 

All great info. I was originally unaware of the 12/08 build date as far as tailgate locks. I plan on putting a topper on mine soon so the lock is a must.

Thanks for the info.

 

Very helpful. Thank you!

One question about the Link x2 required -- in another thread I've been following in researching this, P/N 68049237AA was posted. Can you comment on that part vs the one you've suggested above?

 

That rod part number does show up as a different part on different forums.

Shoud have written things down as I removed them from their box. Assumed my invoice would help me write this post. Assumed wrong and that is why there are no part numbers in my post

4589709-AB cyl lock .....DO NOT NEED THIS $59.40 I will get $$ back.
68044904-AB Handle TA ....Handle with lock cyclinder $59.14
68044867-AB Handle DO ...control unit. $40.30
82211668-AB Lock tail.... 2 part wiring loom, solonoid, rivets, large and small brackets, screws, rivits, heat shrink, crimps. $106.00

68049240-AA Link Tail ..... I assume this is the rods $9.20 and this matches smoothbassmans post you quoted

This whole assembly can be bought as a package. Locking handle and
romote solonoid package.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...ailgate-2.html
I did not get that.
At first I was just going to get the locking handle....here is my story.

I ordered the locking handle and expected my Pace Edwards to outrun that..."overnight" from autoanything....

Autoanthing had told me they shipped my Pace Edwards LK170, a week after placing the order. Watched it sit pending for a week and called. Girl told me it shipped that day and would be here before it showed up in their system and sent me an e-mail. OK
Waited 2 days..... called again. Did not ship that day but would ship today again. OK. Later that day I got an email saying it would not ship for two weeks. NOT OK.
Cancelled that order. Screw autoanything. I do not like being lied to, and they did it twice.

Went to Dodge to get my locking handle that was in, and they had the Mopar remote package in stock....so, the rest of the story you see in pictures.

I would just confirm with your parts guy the rods, they are different for the locking handle. I assume that is the part number I listed but I have read different.
By elimination on my invoice 68049240-AA has to be the rods but ask to be sure.
I just can't quite say, yep, thats the part no after seeing other numbers on line...on forums. Cannot confirm on any of the Mopar parts online sites...99% sure but...

all those part cost are list. I did not pay that much. DeWayne gave me a discount.

Cheers
Blue

 

blue20250,

If I already have the locking tail gate from the factory, is this the only part I need, 82211668-AB Lock tail.... 2 part wiring loom, solonoid, rivets, large and small brackets, screws, rivits, heat shrink, crimps. $106.00?

 

Yes, that is the part you need to make it a remote that works with the doors. You just need that black plastic lever on the control.
I actually paid $ 84.80, up to your parts guy I guess. List $106.00

Follow my wiring. The instructions are wrong in the kit....for my truck anyhow. Might be right for yours past the 12/09 build.
I have no idea. Do know the wires from the slonoid are red and black
not W/P and BK/DB....in the kit I got.

I used a 12vdc sensor tool and a friend to find the right wires in mine.
Had her unlock and lock the doors until I isolated the correct wires after testing proved the instructions were wrong. I did not crimp or solder until I tested.

I did not cut my wires, just removed a 1/4" or so of insulation....twisted the solonoid wires around that bare copper so I did not make a mess of those wires for the test. Had a feeling...did not match Pace Edwards wire colors PDF. Looked everywhere for a schematic..dealer was closed.

Sorry, Yep, just part 82211668-AB for the remote kit. Everything you need is in that if you have a locking handle already.
and your dealer can get that overnight...really overnight.

 

That's pretty damn cool, thanks for the write up and info. I plan to do this in the near future.

 

Yours and Smoothbassman's information is very helpful and much appreciated.

I would just like to further clarify P/N's before I work all this out on my dad's truck (I'm 30, btw and just trying to help out the old guy! -- not a kid working on daddy's truck)

1. In this post by Smoothbassman -- https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1531751-post18.html -- he lists 3 possible handle part numbers. The SECOND number being the one for a locking tailgate only and not locking WITH camera, however in the pictures I see no hole for a camera yet he references the THIRD part number. I would like the locking handle without camera -- please verify P/N.

2. Same with the Control Unit, either P/N 55112386AA or 68044867AA are listed in that post as being used for a locking tailgate or locking tailgate with camera. Again he uses the latter, but I don't see a rearview camera in his photos or write-up. ??

3. Now, if I want to make the tailgate work with remote, do I ADD the kit you mentioned -- 82211668-AB -- or do I order a different P/N all together that is all-inclusive of the locking handle, link rods, control unit and remote wiring, rivets, solenoid, etc.?

Thanks again.