<p class="Msonormal">I’m looking for opinions and suggestions.<span style="> </span>I have a ’03 Ram Quadcab pickup.<span style="> </span>I’m improving upon the inadequate stock
sound system…no bass, distortion, etc.<span style=">
</span>I’ll have to do the upgrade in stages due to budget constraints.<span style="> </span>Here’s the plan:<span style="> </span></p>


<p class="Msonormal">Stage 1: Upgrade existing door speakers.<span style="> </span>OEM has 6x9” in front and 6.5” in rear.<span style="> </span>I’m going 6.5" in both to balance the sound.</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Stage 2: Add 3.5” dash speakers.<span style="> </span></p>


<p class="Msonormal">Stage 3: Add sub and amp.<span style=">
</span>Plan on a 5-channel amp to run the sub and the door speakers.<span style="> </span>Plan to run the dash speakers off the head
unit.</p>




<p class="Msonormal">Stage 4:<span style="> </span>MAYBE
upgrade the head unit. <o></o></p>


<p class="Msonormal">The stock radio is reported to only provide 66 total watts –
so I’m running on 16.5 per channel right now.<span style=">
</span>I’d rather put money into the speakers and amp rather than a new head
unit.<span style="> </span>I do have a Sony CDX-4250 on
hand.<span style="> </span>Its rated at 19RMS/40Peak per
channel and it has 2 pair of preamp outs.<span style=">
</span>I don’t want to put money into a new head unit until the other stuff is
installed.<span style="> </span></p>


<p class="Msonormal"> <o></o></p>


<p class="Msonormal">Here’s what I plan to buy:</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Dash speakers:<span style=">
</span>Infinity Reference 3002cf, 3.5”</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Door Speakers:<span style=">
</span>Infinity Reference 6002si, 6.5”</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Sub enclosure: Q-customs Factory-fit, non-powered</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Sub:<span style="> </span>Infinity
Reference 1030w, 10”</p>


<p class="Msonormal">Amp:<span style="> </span>Alpine
5-channel MRV-F450 V12 </p>


<p class="Msonormal"> <o></o></p>


<p class="Msonormal">Should I swap the stock system for the Sony now?<img src=smileys/smiley4.gif border="0"></p>


<p class="Msonormal">Is there a comparable amp out there for less? – Paying for
the Alpine name is expensive.<img src=smileys/smiley19.gif border="0">

</p>
<p class="Msonormal">Any other ideas?

</p>

 

hay if you want to go the route of audiobahn i can get you a good deal

 

My personal 2 cents would be stay away from Infinity you will blow them even with a low watt stock system the destortion alone will take them out in no time.</P>


What I would look for is a good set of matched three way componets to set up the front stage (i.e. Boston Acustic Pro3 ways) these will cost more butyou will be much happier.Spend less money on the back doors as they are for fill only.</P>


As for a good 5 channel amp try and find a Phoenix Gold XS 6600 on Ebay. Good solid AMP tons of power simple hook up and LPL **** for quick bass adjustment when listening to different kinds of music. I have used Audiobahn in lots of Custom installs they make a really nice looking amp and great when putting them in show cars but I have not been impressed with there performance in competition and they seem to have problems with lasting.</P>


I tend to be an Audiophile and go to the extreme most of the time, but again my 2 cents.</P><edited><editID>JSkwarek</editID><editDate>37993.6499305556</editDate></edited>

 

Yeah, I think I'm off the Infinity kick. I'll look at the Boston
Acoustics and see if they answer the mail. I'm also thinking
about going with two amps. Originally I wanted a single 5-channel
to conserve space and make for a cleaner install. However, now
I'm thinking I may be able to still keep things clean and out of sight
- and possibly save a few bucks - if I get a reasonably priced
4-channel for the doors and then a single or 2-channel bridgeable amp
for the sub. It is starting to look as if I can get both for
cheaper than the 5-channel will be alone.



Thanks for the info. Further opinions and suggestions are still welcome.

 

<SPAN class=bold>bensonjv yea I used to like Infinity but have not been happy with there quality in years. You are right about getting two amps instead of one being a bit cheaper plus you have tons more options out there. There is plenty of room for an amp under each seat you will just have to move you jack which is stored under the passanger seat (well it is in my 2002 Ram Quad Cab anyway). Let me know if you need any help with anything, I can get you cost on PG but right now last years lines are being retired so EBay has better pricing.</SPAN>

 

I need help with fitting speakers. On a whim I pulled the stock
speakers to see exactly what was in there, space available for
upgrades, etc. Interestingly, the rear speakers measure closer to
a 5 1/4" than a 6 1/2". Can anyone shed light on that?
According to Crutchfield's database I have 6x9's in the front and 6
1/2's in the back. I do acknowledge that there are some extended
screw tabs on the stock rear speakers - so maybe 6 1/2's really do fit
back there. But I need a second opinion because when I tried a
6x9 upgrade I found it did not fit. The back of the speaker frame
did not fit into the door hole. Is that a common problem?
I'm wondering if I'll have the same fit problem in the back as the
front if I try to put 6 1/2's back there. If a speaker is
designated as shallow mount, does that mean the speaker will be both
narrower as well as flatter? I thought I was good to go with the
speaker sizes and was ok with buying online. Now I'm apprehensive
since there is no way to know if things will really fit.



Ideas?

 

my sister just bought a 04 dodge ram quad cab and the speakers in the back look to be 5-1/4 instead of the usual 6-1/2. I dont really know though. just buy the 6-1/2s and if they dont fit send them back and get the 5-1/4s.

 

So are infinity speakers JUNK or what? Replaced 2 of them in my daytona, 2 in my caravan, and now one in my Dakota. Friend's ram blew 2, friends intrepid blew one. WTF? It is not like these are some cheap speakers and we hooked them up to too much amp. It is a factory setup and they blow up all the time.
I am approaching a similar setup in my Dakota now. I am going to start at the other end. The low end. The plan for now is to add an amp and a sub under the back seat. Have not worked that out yet, but would like to put 2-10's under there. I don't want to shake the neighborhood I just want some low end kick. I was going to install that and then take some lows out of the factory speakers with a highpass on each. That should get me some low for now and keep the factory speakers from distorting. Perhaps even from blowing out. then see how much money the wife lets me spend on the rest. I actually like the head unit as I would like to to look stock when i am done.
Sound like a plan?

 

I used to run MBquart 4X6 coax dash, 6 1/2 componets door, and 4X10 coax in a S-10 wayyyyyyyyyy back when. I have found that bass is the killer of speakers most times. I always put "bass-blocker" caps inline of the speakers. A friend wanted the same but could not afford the $$$ to reproduce my system. We went the kmart/walmart jensen/audiovox way with his system. I was throughly impressed with the sound. For the average non-competing driver, as long as you protect the speakers, most name brand speakers will do fine. I have seen bostons, alpines, inifinity, mb quart, kicker and many other speakers blown because were trying to put full range audio on small speakers. Even when they were powered by the published RMS power. The most fun is watching stock speakers blow up playing metallica's ONE on the kick drum part hahaha.

 

Just remember that an underpowered amp is far more dangerous to a speaker than an over powered amp.

When your puny little factory head unit tries to reproduce a large signal and can't it clips the waveform of the music signal and that's equivalent to DC into the speaker coil. Then the little speaker coil fries and you're left with a molten mass of dead speaker.

If the amp is over powered you will hear the speaker over-travel and sound like crap looooong before the signal becomes so pwerful that it explodes the voice coil.

No matter what the manufacturer's claims are, if it does not have a proper switching power supply (and most head units don't) then it can't make more than 12 watts. Guess what happens when you try to drive an inefficient car speaker that's rated for 50 or 80 watts? It can't get the volume level you want so you crank it up higher until the signal clips and poof....