What you think, an Audiobahn A2300HCT for my subs (Audiobahn DUB1000 subs x2)
Specs on the amp:
# Number of Channels: 2
# RMS Power (4 ohms): 300 watts x 2 chan.
# RMS Power (2 ohms): 600 watts x 2 chan.
# RMS Power (1 ohm): 1200 watts x 2 chan.
# Bridged RMS Power: 2400 watts x 1 chan. (at 1 ohm)
# Peak Power Output: 4800 watts approx.
# Min. Impedance Unbridged: 1 ohm
# Min. Impedance Bridged: 1 ohm
# THD @ Rated RMS Power: N/A
# Speaker Level Inputs: No
# Amp Preamp Outputs: Yes
# Built-in Crossover: Yes - HP / LP / Sub
# High-Pass Crossover: 50 - 750 Hz
# Low-Pass Crossover: 30 - 120 Hz
# Subsonic Filter: 20 - 45 Hz
# Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100 dB
# Channel Separation: N/A
# Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
# Bass/Gain Remote: N/A
# Fan Cooled: Yes
# Fuse Rating: 40A x 4

Specs on the subs:
1200 watts peak power handling
600 watts RMS power handling
Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Woofer Cone
KM3 Coated for virtually no cone distortion
Can operate at 2 ohms or 8 ohms depending on wiring configuration
Multi-connect lug lock terminals
PHAT 2" Foam Surround
2.5" Dual 4 ohms Voice Coils
Efficiency: 91.1 dB
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 500Hz
Fs: 30.0 Hz
Qts: 0.41
Qes: 0.44
Qms: 5.30
Xmax: +/- 12mm
Vas: 0.80 cubic ft. (Not volume of box)
Woofer Magnet Displacement: 0.15 cubic ft.

 

Should work fine. Just run the subs completely in parallel and bridge the amp which will run a 1-ohm load bridged.

 

But the subs say can run at 2 or 8 ohm depending on wiring configuration. At 2ohm the amp is 2x600 RMS, and the subs are rated for 600watts, so I figured that was the best route to go. Didn't think pushing a one ohm load would be feasible?

 

Your running 2 subs though. So running (2) 2-ohm subs in parralel gives you a 1-ohm final load into 1 channel.

 

I've checked out quite a few wiring diagrams, could you give me a link to one that is an example of this set up? And a 1-ohm final load into one channel? But still using both channels of the amplifier, correct?

 

Here is a very crude drawing I made. Just basically connect all the positives together, and all the negatives together. Then bridge the amp. It should show the proper terminals right on the amp to bridge it. They may not be configured exactly like this picture. Some are configured +- -+ instead of +- +-. Just look right on the amp or in the manual.

 

Audiobahn makes some good stuff...should be more than enough bass at 1 ohm

 

Yeah, I agree. the amp retails for almost $1000, it will be more than enough for my subs. The things I'm most worried about is proper airspace for my box. The subs have a huge magnet so I'm gonna have to use spacer rings to even get them to sit in the box and raise my back seat to get them to fit under the backseat. But I think regardless it's gonna be a badass sounding setup. Is there anywhere specifically in the sub specs where it sets an airspace minimum suggestion for the sub enclosure?

 

Fs: 30.0 Hz
Qts: 0.41
Qes: 0.44
Qms: 5.30
Xmax: +/- 12mm
Vas: 0.80 cubic ft. (Not volume of box)
Woofer Magnet Displacement: 0.15 cubic ft.

All of this determines how the sub will act in a particular enclosure.In the manual it should give you a recomendation. Or contact the manufacturer and they should be able to give you a recomended volume.

You can also download a free program called WinISD. From here: http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

You can simulate different enclosure volumes and see how the sub will perform in each one. It's a fun program to mess around with.

 

Thank you sir, you have been very helpful. I will have to tinker with that program!
And I'll upload new pics once I get the headunit and amp and get the install done!