i need a wire diagram!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
RE: i need a wire diagram!!!
Well I was kinda. I have a line out converter that I had from my system in my old car. I just got my Dakota and wanted to put my system in it. I was planning on keeping my stock radio, that’s how I had it in my ford. Is this $10 part a line converter?
Professional
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From:
RE: i need a wire diagram!!!
ORIGINAL: 356MAGNUM
wiring I hope you arent plaining on hacking into the stock wiring. For about $10 you can get a plugin adapter to wire to the aftermarket head units's wiring.
wiring I hope you arent plaining on hacking into the stock wiring. For about $10 you can get a plugin adapter to wire to the aftermarket head units's wiring.
How/where do i wire the sub into the stock HU wire harness??? i want to add one or two, but I have NO idea where to plug it into
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From:
RE: i need a wire diagram!!!
Ryan
The line out convert is to convert speaker level to RCA to use on an amp. Many amps now days have speaker lever inputs that are used instead of the RCA. (dual input option, but not at the same time). The harness adapter I was talking about, is a plug that you wire to the aftermarket radio's wiring that you used to plug directly into the car's wiring harness. This way if you sell the car and take the radio out, you can simply unplug the aftermarker and plug in the stock radio.
The line out convert is to convert speaker level to RCA to use on an amp. Many amps now days have speaker lever inputs that are used instead of the RCA. (dual input option, but not at the same time). The harness adapter I was talking about, is a plug that you wire to the aftermarket radio's wiring that you used to plug directly into the car's wiring harness. This way if you sell the car and take the radio out, you can simply unplug the aftermarker and plug in the stock radio.
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From:
RE: i need a wire diagram!!!
Bob
Ok if you are using the stock headunit, you need either an amp with speaker level inputs (like I talked about in the above post) or get an "line level converter). To use the line level converter, you tap off of the wires coming off of the rear speakers. If I remember correctly, the wires with the stripes are the negative (-) leads. I have used these before with pretty good results radioshack wiretap. The picture is missleading. What this does is piggybacks onto an existing wire and electronically "taps" off of it.
Here is something that I would have remembered for the remote power lead of the amp. This is a fuse tap. And man its a PITA to get in. But works great. This is what I am using to power the fans and LED bar for the amp cover radishack fuse tap
Ok if you are using the stock headunit, you need either an amp with speaker level inputs (like I talked about in the above post) or get an "line level converter). To use the line level converter, you tap off of the wires coming off of the rear speakers. If I remember correctly, the wires with the stripes are the negative (-) leads. I have used these before with pretty good results radioshack wiretap. The picture is missleading. What this does is piggybacks onto an existing wire and electronically "taps" off of it.
Here is something that I would have remembered for the remote power lead of the amp. This is a fuse tap. And man its a PITA to get in. But works great. This is what I am using to power the fans and LED bar for the amp cover radishack fuse tap
Trending Topics
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From:
RE: i need a wire diagram!!!
Its not a bad idea to go that route, atleast you will have an warranty. I added a power wiring section to the website. The only thing I didnt take pics of was the fuse tap. In the rear fuse panel, block 18 is 3 pins to receive a fuse. The forward most pin is constant power, the middle is ground and the rearward pins is switched power. If you have the smokers group (car came with a cigarette lighter) then in block 18 in the rear fuse panel will have the fuse in the forward slots, if you dont have the smokers group then the fuse will be in the rearward slots.
The whole procedure is not that bad to do. If someone has zero experience in dealing with electronics I would not recommed anyone doing this alone. Would take about 2 hours at the most to do, if you are just adding a prefab box and amp. I would mount the amp on the box, this way for some reason you want to haul something big you can take it out realitively easily. Disconnect the 3 power cables(pos-red-constant 12vdc, neg-black-ground, and remote-blue-switched 12vdc) and either the speaker or RCA cables. You would of course have to have someway to prevent all the cables except for the ground lead from touching ground. The easiest way I have found is to take this stuff that you dip the ends of pliers in to give them a rubber grip, and dip the lead ends in it. Then you can peel it off and save them for later.
IF they are smart this is what they are going to do.
POWERAll power guage needs to be matched to the power of the amp, in most cases 8 gauge is good enough for a single amp.
1)Run a ground cable directly from the lug that is mounted to the body in the forward right area(looking from an open hatch) of the tire/battery well.
2)Run a fused line from the terminal on the fuse block has the lead going to the battery. The reason I would not recommend running the cable directly to the battery is that if you have to replace the battery it is easier not having to worry about wires hanging and shorting.
3)Run the remote power on lead from the amp to a fuse tap on block 18. Now the only draw back to this is the amp will still be powered reguardless if you have the radio on or not, because the key is controlling the on/off of the amp and not the radio. If you are using the stock radio this is the way it is going to have to be, if I am correct, because the stock radio does not have a remote turnon lead output.
Audio
4a) If using the builtin Speaker In connections on the amp, tap into the rear speakers then just run speaker wire to the amp and then run speaker wire to the sub box from the amp output.
4b)If using a line converter, tap into the rear speakers using speaker wire to the line converter. Run RCA cables from the line converter to the amp and then speaker wire to the sub box.
And that is all there is to it.
The whole procedure is not that bad to do. If someone has zero experience in dealing with electronics I would not recommed anyone doing this alone. Would take about 2 hours at the most to do, if you are just adding a prefab box and amp. I would mount the amp on the box, this way for some reason you want to haul something big you can take it out realitively easily. Disconnect the 3 power cables(pos-red-constant 12vdc, neg-black-ground, and remote-blue-switched 12vdc) and either the speaker or RCA cables. You would of course have to have someway to prevent all the cables except for the ground lead from touching ground. The easiest way I have found is to take this stuff that you dip the ends of pliers in to give them a rubber grip, and dip the lead ends in it. Then you can peel it off and save them for later.
IF they are smart this is what they are going to do.
POWERAll power guage needs to be matched to the power of the amp, in most cases 8 gauge is good enough for a single amp.
1)Run a ground cable directly from the lug that is mounted to the body in the forward right area(looking from an open hatch) of the tire/battery well.
2)Run a fused line from the terminal on the fuse block has the lead going to the battery. The reason I would not recommend running the cable directly to the battery is that if you have to replace the battery it is easier not having to worry about wires hanging and shorting.
3)Run the remote power on lead from the amp to a fuse tap on block 18. Now the only draw back to this is the amp will still be powered reguardless if you have the radio on or not, because the key is controlling the on/off of the amp and not the radio. If you are using the stock radio this is the way it is going to have to be, if I am correct, because the stock radio does not have a remote turnon lead output.
Audio
4a) If using the builtin Speaker In connections on the amp, tap into the rear speakers then just run speaker wire to the amp and then run speaker wire to the sub box from the amp output.
4b)If using a line converter, tap into the rear speakers using speaker wire to the line converter. Run RCA cables from the line converter to the amp and then speaker wire to the sub box.
And that is all there is to it.
