need help, installing amp + sub, using factory stereo deck
#1
10-03-2011, 01:42 AM
need help, installing amp + sub, using factory stereo deck
i just picked up a loaded up 2004 300m with the navigation unit. i friggin love it. its got the 6 disc changer, i love that too! i dont want to replace either. but i still want more bass. im lookin to get somewhat of a mild set up, maybe just one 10 inch and no more than 500 watts for an amp. i've spent about as much time as i'll ever want to using google, and so far i've come up with this
Scosche's LOC80 line output converter
from what it looks like, im geussing i need to splice the wires from the 6x9's in the back and then the rca's right into the plugs to the amp and vwala! sounds to damn easy to me, i dont wanna blow my amp or nothing. any expert advice is always greatly appreciated, thanks much!
Scosche's LOC80 line output converter
from what it looks like, im geussing i need to splice the wires from the 6x9's in the back and then the rca's right into the plugs to the amp and vwala! sounds to damn easy to me, i dont wanna blow my amp or nothing. any expert advice is always greatly appreciated, thanks much!
#2
12-04-2011, 06:40 AM
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Well, due to the helpful transparent case, we can see this is a transformer-coupled Line Output Converter ("LOC"). It is exactly what you want for integrating a factory deck at the speaker outputs to an aftermarket power amplifier.
Because it's transformer-coupled, it will present a nice load to your OEM deck and unless grossly mis-wired, should not harm it whatsoever. Also, because it's transformer-coupled, it cannot pass DC so it will not pass a ground loop via the RCA cables.
I have one possible issue, but it may just be you're unfamiliar with the terminology. You say "splice the wires from the 6x9's". What you will be doing is cutting the wires to your 6x9's and connecting them to the 4 wires on the line output converter. "Splice" implies you wire the LOC and the speakers together. That won't work.
You then connect the LOC's two RCA outs to your sub amp.
If you fear the loss of the rear door speakers, you can get an inexpensive amp ... doesn't have to be much power ... and hook that up to the rear door speakers. Some sub amps will have RCA outputs, you could connect the second amp to those. If the amp you choose doesn't, then you can just use RCA splitters at the LOC output.
However, the rear speakers are not really contributing significantly to the sound quality ... it's quite possible they're detracting from it. They won't be as high quality as the fronts in any factory car setup, and it's probably loud enough without them plus a sub.
You could always try it that way, and if you miss them, hook up a small amp to them at any time.
So, the setup will look like this:
Factory Deck ---> Front Speakers
Factory Deck ---> [Rear Speaker wires] ---> LOC ---> Sub amp ---> Sub speaker(s)
Alternately:
Factory Deck ---> Front Speakers
Factory Deck ---> [Rear Speaker wires] ---> LOC
LOC ---> Sub amp ---> Sub speaker(s)
LOC ---> Rear amp ---> Rear Door speakers
You should (sorry) Google for your deck's wiring diagram. You want to look for the trigger wire, sometimes called the antenna remote wire (for power antennas). What it will do is send a signal on that wire when the deck is turned on. Your amp(s) will have a connector for that wire. They will use that signal to turn on when the deck turns on, and off when the deck is off.
Without that trigger connected, the amp(s) will be live all the time, possibly leading to battery drain if the truck isn't run for a while.
Absolutely positively fuse the power wire to the amp(s) you're adding. Put the fuse at the point you get +12V for your amps, whether that's inside the cab or at the battery.
Because it's transformer-coupled, it will present a nice load to your OEM deck and unless grossly mis-wired, should not harm it whatsoever. Also, because it's transformer-coupled, it cannot pass DC so it will not pass a ground loop via the RCA cables.
I have one possible issue, but it may just be you're unfamiliar with the terminology. You say "splice the wires from the 6x9's". What you will be doing is cutting the wires to your 6x9's and connecting them to the 4 wires on the line output converter. "Splice" implies you wire the LOC and the speakers together. That won't work.
You then connect the LOC's two RCA outs to your sub amp.
If you fear the loss of the rear door speakers, you can get an inexpensive amp ... doesn't have to be much power ... and hook that up to the rear door speakers. Some sub amps will have RCA outputs, you could connect the second amp to those. If the amp you choose doesn't, then you can just use RCA splitters at the LOC output.
However, the rear speakers are not really contributing significantly to the sound quality ... it's quite possible they're detracting from it. They won't be as high quality as the fronts in any factory car setup, and it's probably loud enough without them plus a sub.
You could always try it that way, and if you miss them, hook up a small amp to them at any time.
So, the setup will look like this:
Factory Deck ---> Front Speakers
Factory Deck ---> [Rear Speaker wires] ---> LOC ---> Sub amp ---> Sub speaker(s)
Alternately:
Factory Deck ---> Front Speakers
Factory Deck ---> [Rear Speaker wires] ---> LOC
LOC ---> Sub amp ---> Sub speaker(s)
LOC ---> Rear amp ---> Rear Door speakers
You should (sorry) Google for your deck's wiring diagram. You want to look for the trigger wire, sometimes called the antenna remote wire (for power antennas). What it will do is send a signal on that wire when the deck is turned on. Your amp(s) will have a connector for that wire. They will use that signal to turn on when the deck turns on, and off when the deck is off.
Without that trigger connected, the amp(s) will be live all the time, possibly leading to battery drain if the truck isn't run for a while.
Absolutely positively fuse the power wire to the amp(s) you're adding. Put the fuse at the point you get +12V for your amps, whether that's inside the cab or at the battery.
#3
12-09-2011, 01:10 AM
