So I've got a 2008 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi Sport. As of now I have two JL HD Amps, a 900/1 for the sub and a 600/4 for the speakers. Now I want to add in another 600/4 amplifier, but I wanted to know if I should upgrade anything else in the car to make sure I don't screw up the car. I've got a power cell battery in there now, and I've heard I might need to look into getting a higher output alternator. Is that true? Are there other components I would need to upgrade or look into? I just don't want my car to implode...

Thanks for the help.

 

Not likely. The battery will make up for any short-coming in the alternator, which, BTW is 136ah. Very unlikely you'll out-run it.

 

I would buy a compositor for the system an it will take some wear off alternator and battery and it also helps smooth the bass out

Just have to find a place for the compositor, I bought one but haven't put it in yet, haven't figured out where to place it

 

A capacitor like Ellis said would do the job. If I understand how they work, they store energy till the system needs is. Kind of like a mini battery.

 

That is correct, they hold power and then when the amp needs a burst of power it comes from the capacitor rather then pulling it from the battery, usually they say you don't need them unless you are running more than 1400watts but it also doesn't hurt to have one

 

A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to: 1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator 2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery 3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 2 AWG wire.

Seems like usefull information i found online. I don't really agree with the upgrade alternator though.

 

Ok so your running a 900 watt amp for subs and a 600 watt amp for your speakers correct?

 

I went with a Maniac Electric Motors 160 amp for my truck, which I ordered and installed at the same time I did the flexalites. It was my first alternator swap and only took me an hour to complete:

 

The 600/4 is a Class D and very efficient amp. I've never heard of JL audio making a 900/1 amp, they have always been 1000/1 or 750/1 for the HD series.

I have a 450/4 class AB that draws as much current as your 600/4 and a JBL Crown amp that draws 400watts more than your JL sub amp.
All-in-all, I am drawing about 35A more than you right now IF your sub amp is a Class-D(probably so)
I added a 600w RF amp that was continous output, not Max rated along with my other 2 amps and my electrical system wasn't even bothered. Now, I do have a Batcap 300, which is essentially a capacitor, but isn't and is actually a gel battery. It's rated at 300CA, charges like a battery and discharges at the same rate as a capacitor. Batteries don't discharge as fast as a cap does. So, with my 35A above you right now and the 50A added for the additional 3rd amp, that puts me 85A of draw over you without issue. That doesn't mean there wont be long term effect by over working the alternator...
I've had the Batcap 300 for 6years and it's still kickin.

Now, if I disconnect the Batcap from my system, the lights still don't dim, but the bass isn't as sharp or as quick. That is the only thing I noticed.

I think you'll be fine. Unless your one of those that plays nothing but Bass cd's to gain attention, then you'll eventually cook your alternator by over working it asap.

If you upgrade to a higher Amperage alternator, you'll need to beefen up your leads that go from the alternator to your fuse box and upgrade your battery ground wire as well. Without those upgrades, the current produced by the new alternator is restricted by the stock wiring and will heat it up and could melt it over time.
Also, HO alternators actually produce LESS Amperage at idle than most OEM Stock alternators do. It's not until ~1200rpms+ they begin the higher output.