amp ??
Yes as long as the sub is seeing 3/4 of its rated rms it will be doing close to its optimal performance....now as stated you can run more power and get more performance, but we wont worry about that. Are you gona use the high level inputs or get a loc?
high level inputs. i spent some time and looked over the wiring diagram from theheitruckclub.com and wrote down all the wires and color and poloarity. i have everything set just waiting on the sub and box.
the high level input was recomended earlier...is it better than a loc or just different?
when setting the hpf and lpf frequency Hz am i trying to get a certain range within the specs of the speakers? say the components are listed at 35Hz to 25 KHz. and my amp says 50Hz to 200hz. would i shoot in the dark clooser to 200Hz until its a sound i like?
the high level input was recomended earlier...is it better than a loc or just different?
when setting the hpf and lpf frequency Hz am i trying to get a certain range within the specs of the speakers? say the components are listed at 35Hz to 25 KHz. and my amp says 50Hz to 200hz. would i shoot in the dark clooser to 200Hz until its a sound i like?
High inputs are better imo.....
Low pass=generally used for a sub, limits what frequencies a sub will play up to...
High pass=generally used for speakers, limits what frequencies a speaker will play down to....
What are you running speaker wise??
Low pass=generally used for a sub, limits what frequencies a sub will play up to...
High pass=generally used for speakers, limits what frequencies a speaker will play down to....
What are you running speaker wise??
ive got swiss audio sak 525 on the front doors and the tweeter is set to +3 gain for right now. ive left the rear speakers stock and will replace them sometime after the new year. i understand the purpose of the frequceny adjustments i am just curious as to how high i might want to set the door speakers and how low to set the sub. or is it one of those things that you just tinker with until if sounds good to you?
again THANK YOU so much for all the feed back![sm=partyparty.gif]
again THANK YOU so much for all the feed back![sm=partyparty.gif]
ORIGINAL: rtkota5point9
E-bay is a great place for deals, but you never know what you'll get. I think the Pioneer TS-W306C is a great 4-ohm single VC sub that's under $100 retail. It's in the $70-$80 range We've had some stupid people go home with these and immediatly mess with gains and beat the crap out of em and they still last. Plus they sound really decent. They make a DVC version as well. Definatly where it's at for the money!
E-bay is a great place for deals, but you never know what you'll get. I think the Pioneer TS-W306C is a great 4-ohm single VC sub that's under $100 retail. It's in the $70-$80 range We've had some stupid people go home with these and immediatly mess with gains and beat the crap out of em and they still last. Plus they sound really decent. They make a DVC version as well. Definatly where it's at for the money!
ORIGINAL: habeba86
First let me start off by saying you are probably seeing cheaper brands that have their peak power ratings all over the product info. You ALWAYS need to look at rms ratings of the product...wether its an amp,speakers,subs...you need rms ratings not peak. Now that that is out of the way let me get into the other stuff.
You ask about having a subs that can handle more power than an amp puts out and if there is a limit.....Its really the other way around. You can run more power to a sub or speaker than its rated, to a limit....Lets think of it like a vehicle. The sub is the chassis of the vehicle and the amp is the engine. You dont want a huge massive chassis(sub) with a tiny engine(amp). It will be slow and not perform like the chassis(sub) is build to do and the engine(amp) will have to work alot harder to try to get that heavy chassis(sub) moving. You want to match the two as close as possible. BUUUT you can put a bigger engine in the chassis as long as your "smart" with how you drive(listen) and have eveything set up. If you get greedy and start mashing the gas everywhere the chassis(sub) wont be able to keep up with the engines(amps) performace and you will probably wreck or break something.....or blow up the sub or speaker. There is many many many many things the effect the power handlings of speakers jst like cars have many other things the effect the performance of the car.......I hope the didnt confused you lol. Its pretty simple to get the concept, but when you get into it, it is incredibly complicated.
ORIGINAL: deanj287
sounds right up my alley for now!
im under the impression that you want a sub that can handle more than your amp can put out....is there ever a limit to how much more power the sub can handle compared to the amp? ex. 200wat amp and 1000 watt sub
if a sub has more power handleing abilites gona sound as good/hit as hard as one that handles closer to the amps out put?
your guys kick *** with the advice! really really Appreciate the help!
sounds right up my alley for now!
im under the impression that you want a sub that can handle more than your amp can put out....is there ever a limit to how much more power the sub can handle compared to the amp? ex. 200wat amp and 1000 watt sub
if a sub has more power handleing abilites gona sound as good/hit as hard as one that handles closer to the amps out put?
your guys kick *** with the advice! really really Appreciate the help!
You ask about having a subs that can handle more power than an amp puts out and if there is a limit.....Its really the other way around. You can run more power to a sub or speaker than its rated, to a limit....Lets think of it like a vehicle. The sub is the chassis of the vehicle and the amp is the engine. You dont want a huge massive chassis(sub) with a tiny engine(amp). It will be slow and not perform like the chassis(sub) is build to do and the engine(amp) will have to work alot harder to try to get that heavy chassis(sub) moving. You want to match the two as close as possible. BUUUT you can put a bigger engine in the chassis as long as your "smart" with how you drive(listen) and have eveything set up. If you get greedy and start mashing the gas everywhere the chassis(sub) wont be able to keep up with the engines(amps) performace and you will probably wreck or break something.....or blow up the sub or speaker. There is many many many many things the effect the power handlings of speakers jst like cars have many other things the effect the performance of the car.......I hope the didnt confused you lol. Its pretty simple to get the concept, but when you get into it, it is incredibly complicated.
Habeba all over it like white on rice
Peak power is something you should never go by.....like Habby said, RMS is where its at....To go with what your asking....I honestly suggest that you run the sub on one amp....and if you really want the bump in your normal speakers, that you look into a 150-300w small amp to hook up to your other speakers. This way, you get maximum power to the sub, and you can rely on direct power from an amp for your car audio instead of the wattage the headunit puts out.
ORIGINAL: deanj287
ive got swiss audio sak 525 on the front doors and the tweeter is set to +3 gain for right now. ive left the rear speakers stock and will replace them sometime after the new year. i understand the purpose of the frequceny adjustments i am just curious as to how high i might want to set the door speakers and how low to set the sub. or is it one of those things that you just tinker with until if sounds good to you?
again THANK YOU so much for all the feed back![sm=partyparty.gif]
ive got swiss audio sak 525 on the front doors and the tweeter is set to +3 gain for right now. ive left the rear speakers stock and will replace them sometime after the new year. i understand the purpose of the frequceny adjustments i am just curious as to how high i might want to set the door speakers and how low to set the sub. or is it one of those things that you just tinker with until if sounds good to you?
again THANK YOU so much for all the feed back![sm=partyparty.gif]
ORIGINAL: deanj287
crystal clear! really good job on the anology!
i get what your saying and i just ordered an alpine swe 1242. rms is posted at 250 per alpine and peak is 750. it will never see that high with my current set up and 200 rms is what i will be pushing according to the amp specs. i figre if i take it easy on the input sensitivity for the sub i should have no worries. also what would you recomend the max for the input sens. be for the stock head unit? the amp says 5 min. and .02 max
crystal clear! really good job on the anology!

i get what your saying and i just ordered an alpine swe 1242. rms is posted at 250 per alpine and peak is 750. it will never see that high with my current set up and 200 rms is what i will be pushing according to the amp specs. i figre if i take it easy on the input sensitivity for the sub i should have no worries. also what would you recomend the max for the input sens. be for the stock head unit? the amp says 5 min. and .02 max




