Vacuum reduction for TT Stealths by thestealth
#1
02-17-2007, 05:24 PM
Vacuum reduction for TT Stealths by thestealth
This pertains to TT's only. All twin turbo's have a plethora of vacuum lines that are not only unsightly, but are potential sources for leaks.
Parts needed:
Boost Controller, manual or electronic.
Boost gauge
7' of 4mm vacuum line (for the boost controller)
8' of 4mm vacuum line (for boost gauge install, maybe less depending upon how you route the line)
8 small hose clamps. I reused some of the spring clamps from the stock systems I eliminated.
10 1/8" vacuum caps.
before:
I eliminated all but what was required.
note: This will disable the emissions equipment on your car.
First off, remove the battery, Y-pipe, MAS, intercooler hose to driver side intercooler and the intake lines running to the air inlet side of the turbos, this is a good time to check your turbos for shaft play. This opens up the area to make the job much easier.Cut all the vacuum lines at the solenoid pack on the fire wall. Also cut or remove the lines on top of the throttle body. Remove the solenoid bracket and the hose "tree" on the throttle body. Sorry, I didn't take pictures at this stage as my hands were dirty. There is a hardline that runs from the charcoal cannister under your antifreeze over flow to the rear of the engine, stopping near the EGR solenoid. It can be removed as it goes nowhere and does nothing once you have removed the vacuum lines. There is a couple of bolts holding it on, the hardest to reach is on the back of the engine, you have to feel your way through removing it. It takes a little effort to remove the hard lines, be careful not to snag any wires when removing it.
On the back of the throttle body is the EGR valve, I don't have block off plate, so I just capped the vacuum ports (I think the default position is closed, but I capped them anyway. There is also a small port on the back intake tract to the rear turbo that I capped off. The three ports on top of the throttle body get capped as well. I put a thin layer of RTV on the caps.There is also a couple ports on the charcoal cannister, plug them as well.
Now that everything is out of the way, it's time to run vacuum lines to the systems that need them. From the fuel pressure regulator (near then intake manifold under the 3 harness connector) install a T and route to the line on from the BOV and to the port right after the throttle body. Using 2' to 3' of vacuum line, run two equal lengths of line from each wastegate on the turbos, connected to a T, mine ended up near the thermostat housing. From that T, run a line to a MBC. There is a port on the rear of the intake, use this port for your boost gauge.Once the intake tract is reassembled, use the port on the back of the Y-pipe to run to your MBC. That should be it.
After:
Once again I want to note that this will affect emissions. Very likely causing you to fail if you live in an emissions testing state.
Side note: I will be removing the charcoal cannister, the clutch booster tank and the hardlines that run along the firewall in the near future. Even with a garage, it's been cold here and I haven't felt like crawling under the car.
DodgeStealth
Parts needed:
Boost Controller, manual or electronic.
Boost gauge
7' of 4mm vacuum line (for the boost controller)
8' of 4mm vacuum line (for boost gauge install, maybe less depending upon how you route the line)
8 small hose clamps. I reused some of the spring clamps from the stock systems I eliminated.
10 1/8" vacuum caps.
before:
I eliminated all but what was required.
note: This will disable the emissions equipment on your car.
First off, remove the battery, Y-pipe, MAS, intercooler hose to driver side intercooler and the intake lines running to the air inlet side of the turbos, this is a good time to check your turbos for shaft play. This opens up the area to make the job much easier.Cut all the vacuum lines at the solenoid pack on the fire wall. Also cut or remove the lines on top of the throttle body. Remove the solenoid bracket and the hose "tree" on the throttle body. Sorry, I didn't take pictures at this stage as my hands were dirty. There is a hardline that runs from the charcoal cannister under your antifreeze over flow to the rear of the engine, stopping near the EGR solenoid. It can be removed as it goes nowhere and does nothing once you have removed the vacuum lines. There is a couple of bolts holding it on, the hardest to reach is on the back of the engine, you have to feel your way through removing it. It takes a little effort to remove the hard lines, be careful not to snag any wires when removing it.
On the back of the throttle body is the EGR valve, I don't have block off plate, so I just capped the vacuum ports (I think the default position is closed, but I capped them anyway. There is also a small port on the back intake tract to the rear turbo that I capped off. The three ports on top of the throttle body get capped as well. I put a thin layer of RTV on the caps.There is also a couple ports on the charcoal cannister, plug them as well.
Now that everything is out of the way, it's time to run vacuum lines to the systems that need them. From the fuel pressure regulator (near then intake manifold under the 3 harness connector) install a T and route to the line on from the BOV and to the port right after the throttle body. Using 2' to 3' of vacuum line, run two equal lengths of line from each wastegate on the turbos, connected to a T, mine ended up near the thermostat housing. From that T, run a line to a MBC. There is a port on the rear of the intake, use this port for your boost gauge.Once the intake tract is reassembled, use the port on the back of the Y-pipe to run to your MBC. That should be it.
After:
Once again I want to note that this will affect emissions. Very likely causing you to fail if you live in an emissions testing state.
Side note: I will be removing the charcoal cannister, the clutch booster tank and the hardlines that run along the firewall in the near future. Even with a garage, it's been cold here and I haven't felt like crawling under the car.
DodgeStealth