My ancient Pontiac Grand Am is on its last gasp. I'd hoped to keep repairing it indefinitely but the problems are mounting and my mechanic pretty much gave up on the current issue so...

I need a versatile (SUV or 5-door or crossover) $5,000 car that will last me as long as possible while I clock around 60 easy highway miles per week - just grocery runs to town and back, etc. The Caliber Mainstreet caught my eye as 2010 models with ~125K miles seem to be going for $5,000 around here and that seems to be a really good price for any 2010 model with under 180K miles. On the other hand, I could pick up an older import (Nissan/Honda/Toyota) for similar money but with much higher mileage, like maybe a 2005 Honda CR-V with 180-200K miles.

Any thoughts on which would be the best move?

 

Buying a used car is always a crapshoot. Have whatever you decide to get thoroughly checked out by a qualified mechanic. Check the maintenance history, etc.

 

Thanks, but my question was really more "would you buy a newer, lower-mileage Caliber over an older, higher-mileage import with a better record of reliability?"

 

The Caliber is the replacement for the P platform cars. The (P Low) Neon and the (P Tall) PT Cruiser were both solid little cars. I've seen people happy with their Caliber and I've seen people who couldn't get rid of them fast enough. As an Olde Pharte myself, I know about comfort both riding and getting in and out. The Caliber is easier to get in and out of than the Neon. The PT Cruiser is very easy entry and exit and is HUGE inside. Something to consider on any of the three would be when the timing belt and water pump was last replaced. I rebuilt a PT Cruiser and it was a great driver. I found it had a recent belt so the car was rock solid. I've never driven the Caliber but the two older cars handle great. Although my Cruiser had most of the front end replaced.

Something I learned the hard way is the lower radiator support. I don't know about the Caliber, although I hope it was redesigned, but the PT Cruiser is VERY susceptible to damage from parking blocks. Mine was twisted like a pretzel. I pulled 10 or so in the bone yard before I found a straight one.

Have someone who is mechanically inclined go with you to look at the car. See if there are maintenance records. Don't be afraid to spend the money for a history check. I looked at a car that had a clean history but I bought a different history report. The one the dealer showed me was clean with no crashes. The one I bought showed that the drivers door, right front fender and hood were the only factory body parts left. It spent a month in the body shop and was traded in the next day. The chassis harmonics didn't feel right and that was why. So, don't be afraid to walk away if it doesn't feel right.

 

@ol' grouch - Very helpful info, thanks much. I owned a secondhand PT Cruiser for a few years and loved it, but that car used every last bit of the extended warranty I bought for it, and I won't be able to afford a warranty for the car I'm looking for now. Another concern you alerted me to is the timing belt. That's an expensive repair that will stress my finances if/when I need to replace it, and now I'm thinking about looking for something with a timing chain, like a late-2000's GM product (maybe with a bit more ground clearance, too).

Thanks again!

 

GM is bad about using the consumer as part of the quality control process. My sister bought one of the first Vegas to hit the road. At 30,000 miles it got 100 miles to a quart of oil. The GF is on her second Equinox and it's served her fairly well. The first one had issues. A tip, never buy the first couple of model years after a redesign. The 2010 and 2011 Equinox's were problematic but her 2015 is a good solid car.

If you look at other brands, Toyota and Honda have good reputations, but they aren't in the class they used to be. Toyota's and Honda's use timing belts although in recent years some have gone over to chains. Mazda is coming on strong but if you get one of those, get one after Ford sold their interest in Mazda. They are getting to have better quality than Toyota of Honda. To be fair, I do own a Mazda. I know what the ad campaign meant when it went "Zoom Zoom".

If I were in your position, I'd look for a "Granny" car. An older vehicle that someone is selling because they quit driving. I've had several over the years and while they have....interesting....mechanical needs, with a little work they became great cars. I had a 2003 Grand Marquis that all the locks had rusted solid as he owner never used them. It also had a perfect impression of a trailer hitch on the front bumper. The owner drove until a week before he passed away at 98. Another one was a 1984 Mark VII Lincoln. Driven by a little old lady who took good car of it, she just couldn't see the passenger side of the garage door.

 

I wish I knew how to find a granny car! My current vehicle is a '99 Pontiac Grand Am that I bought in 2013 with 55K miles on it. The lady was in her 90's and was done driving and you're right about the odd problems. Mechanically, the car was pretty sound, but age and the elements had taken a toll on the plastics and adhesives.

I went out and looked at a couple of nearby car lots today and, big surprise, $5,000 cars are crap. That 2010 Caliber is looking better just by its age and condition, and I'm also starting to think less about brand reliability and more about just finding something at my price that's not depressing as hell to drive around in.

 

I very rarely go to a car lot. I generally buy from individuals. You can see how the car was taken care of. If there car parts laying in the front yard and a couple on blocks, keep on going. If it's a neatly maintained house and the car is in a garage with tools neatly stored (unlike mine) that's a good place to look. With the current chip shortage, ALL cars are getting expensive. The pandemic didn't cause it but the shortage of containers made it worse. The chip shortage goes back to security concerns in the 2017-2018 period.

Look for a 1996 or newer car. Those are OBD II and are fairly easy to diagnose. I'm right on the edge of the rust belt so I look for cars just south of me. I sold a pickup recently that the new owner drove nearly 200 miles to get a solid, truck with little rust. He then drove it home. What all is wrong with your current car? If the engine or transmission is about to go south, yeah, it may be time to get something newer. If it just rattles and needs suspension and brake work, well, it may be time to fix it up and drive a bit more.

 

consider a lease with so few miles. ? Depends on your budget.

 

Sorry for dropping the ball on this conversation, I took your advice and stopped looking at car lots (too much junk, too many auction cars, too depressing) and started watching Craigslist. Folks out my way apparently love selling cars but don't love cleaning up after themselves, and after every promising lead turned out to be sold already (and the ad NOT deleted... grrr....), I set up a saved search and got a bit more proactive and almost immediately lucked into this fully-loaded, one-senior-owner, 2008 Town & Country with 104,000 miles on the clock and a perfect Carfax for $5,400, owned by a dapper Asian gentleman a little older than me (so, maybe 70?) who looked like he'd just stepped off the country club's 18th hole and who even knocked $400 off the price to match my budget. The car is absolutely cherry, almost like brand new! I found it Monday evening and bought it Tuesday morning!

So... search over! Thanks so much for your counsel and encouragement, you really helped me out!