No it isn't. You will have to remove the caliper and then the rotor. You will then see the hub assembly. Do NOT hammer out the stud since you will damage the bearing. You can rent from Autozone a special tool to press out the stud, or you can use a large clamp (like a wood working clamp) with a spacer on the back side to clear the stud as it comes out. Put a nut on the end of the stud if you can and turn the clamp so that the stud pushes out the back side. If the stud is broken off flush, you will need to put a bolt or something between it and the clamp. When you install the new stud, place it through the hub, add a washer and pull it in with the lug nut untill it is seated. You may elect to go to a tire shop and have them do it for you since they break wheel studs every day when changing tires. Good Luck!!

 

All,
After I installed my brake pads, I noticed a small plastic package with little metal pieces in it. The instructions said 'Caliper Abutment Clips - Do Not Discard'. I don't think that these pieces are critical to the brake pads as the ones I removed did not have them - I may be wrong [&:]. Anybody know what these are? What are they used for? Do I need to install them? The instructions that came with it are very difficult to understand. The diagram is horrid.
Anyway,
Any light somebody could shed on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-T

 

Hi, those clips that came with your front brake pads are for the caliper slides ( where the brake pad ears slide into the caliper. They should be replaced with every brake job and the are frequently missing due to breaking off. They are kind of tough to put in but you need to put some decent pressure on them to get them to lock into place. You are lucky that your pads came with them as most dont, and believe me they are about $12 for 4 of them thorugh the dealership. Good luck

 

you also might want to invest in a set of jack stands if you already haven't and a 4 way lug wrench sounds like you off to a good start also for future reference clean the slides and put some anti seize on them also when changing out a wheel stud I use a socket and a large C-clamp as all you have to do is press it out about 1/4 to 1/2 and depending on the studs to install the new one I use a larger nut (regular nut) and turn an old lug over so the cone is facing out and tighten it to pull it thru
as far a resurfacing the rotor if the are still reasonably true with no grooves I hit them with a sander to remove the glaze but lately Ifound it cheaper to replace the rotors rather than have them turned as it was cheaper to buy new than pay to have them turned while I am at you might want to invest in a torque wrench to torque the lugs down properly and should recheck them after 50 miles or so even a cheap one is actually pretty accurate

here's an interesting fact actually you can tighten lugs tighter with a lug wrench than an impact when I worked at a lab tech I actually tested this and figured the impact would tighten them tighter