I know it sounds bad but you get charged what the labor book says no matter how long it takes to do. I still get 5 hours to do them even though they only take 30 minutes. I could swear I have documented this on another thread.

 

I've looked, they dont appear to come apart very easily. I'll work on the photo's. I do these quite regularly.

 

I know you have ;-) I was hoping for some fool proof instructions, I guess. But my fix is holding for now, but I imagine it'd be a lot clearer to me with a replacement motor in hand. But pics would be awesome someday.

Well, while today I'm the whiner saying "Oh god it's gotta be cheaper" I know you still get rooked on other jobs, so these kinda balance it out for ya.

Guessing this is in response to my bushing replacement idea. I'm guessing the motor's a sealed unit. I can dream, though.

As far as the motor, is that a twin 12v connection off the resistor module? My motor theory is poor, but I'm guessing that's how they get the motor to spin faster, by some super-tricky power trick to electromagnets or something... I always wanted to replace the motor in the semi I drove with one of these so it'd blow more.

Off to rework the trailer brake controller in my '94 Dodge diesel, since Mama will be happy enuf to know here AC works, though I suspect I wasted $90 at the dealer today because the readings I get off the resistor module are the same I had before replacement.

 

Hey All

As per this post, I found the only way to replace the blower motor without removing the dash is to snap the back tab as per the earlier instructions. There are still 3 tabs holding which is more than enough.

As for leaks? It's a non issue.

Be careful, but it works just fine. There is no other way.

Regards
Ed

 

I just need to have a motor in my hands to see. But I'm good now, not sure what caused the fan to stop, it sounded like it was bushings, but now it sounds fine. It never did cook the resistor module, though.