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Originally Posted by dmclamb
(Post 2589577)
Gabriel51,
Thanks for the step by step. I did this today, and it worked like a charm. This saved me a chunk of change. I sure hope it lasts. :) Dan |
Mine is still working as well.
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Originally Posted by Gabriel51
(Post 2465259)
I just finished doing this 20 minutes ago;
I did not take any pictures because it is not necessary, 1. remove the door panel, it is hard to pull off but it will come and at this point let me add the idea of spraying the inserts with silicone because it goes back together easy and should you need to remove it, then it will be easier. Nothing more here! 2. remove the lock actuating rod that runs back to the lock mechanism at the rear of the door. just remove the forward end for now. (black clip) 3. Remove the rear latch assembly (three torque bit screws) accessed from the outside rear of the sliding door. * do not remove the lowest "fourth" screw. Ask me how I know! 4. Remove the foam plug (large); Slide the lock assembly out of the cavity and unsnap the cables from the retainers on the door frame as you come, unplug the wire when you have it out. You can see the items I'm writing about here with the door panel off, it's really simple. 5.Unsnap the other end of the lock rod (red connecter) from the lock unit, noting it's orientation and mark it. 6. Locate the screw on the latch assembly that holds the lock actuator and remove it. Now you have the lock assembly in your hand. 7. Take it to your bench and remove the the locking arm screw (again, noting it's orientation) and remove the arm. Remove the screws that hold the case together and inside you will see the motor, pry the motor out from the non drive end and remove the gear from the shaft. I used a vice to hold the motor while I pried the gear off with two screw drivers, being careful not to damage the teeth. I then lubed the shaft on the new motor (with anything) and pushed the gear on a little by hand and then inserted it in the vice and pushed the gear the rest of the way on by tightening the vice. The shaft runs completely through the motor so no worry about damaging the shaft, but don't over do it! Just until it stops! 8. Reverse the steps above, lubing the linkages, and make sure the foam plug does not assert to much pressure on the lock actuating rod. (this is important so lube it a little also). Time required 30 to 45 minutes, Cost about three bucks!!:icon_toast: Good luck... Hi, my driver side sliding door wouldn't lock and I am attempt to get it fix or replace it myself. i see your instructions are very detail, but want to confirm, is the motor that you replace? Has anyone has the pic of the motor? or know what i can find one? I am out at Detroit, tri-county area. thx, -jd |
Originally Posted by wanderboy
(Post 2635764)
Hi,
my driver side sliding door wouldn't lock and I am attempt to get it fix or replace it myself. i see your instructions are very detail, but want to confirm, is the motor that you replace? Has anyone has the pic of the motor? or know what i can find one? I am out at Detroit, tri-county area. thx, -jd http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-xx-Mabuchi...-/120782270758 http://www.activesurplus.com/images/paste11.jpg |
order placed, thanks for the info gents. now maybe the missiz will stop telling be that the door lock isn't working :)
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Caution -- That motor does not fit the 2006 GrandCaravan door lock.
The shaft has to extend from the other end (the end opposite the plastic shield). I just spent about and hour taking the door apart switching the gear and learned the hard way! BTW - pulling the gear can be a pain. In my case the shaft pulled out of the motor so I finally had to clamp the shaft in the vice to get the gear off. I asked the Ebay guy if he had motors with the shaft at the opposite end. |
Not enough power?
First of all, THANKS for the amazingly detailed responses. I'm not a 'car guy' but was able to follow the steps to dismantle and access the motor.
Twist to the problem: I think my motor works (I can make it turn with a simple link to a 9v battery) but its as if the motor isn't getting enough power to move the latch that operates the lock. Whenever I use the remote or the in-car lock button, the lock 'twitches' but won't complete the open or close action. Is it possible that the motor isn't getting enough power or would a replacement motor solve this problem. Thanks to anyone in advance and Happy Holidays! |
You need to replace the motor. The brushes are usually what goes bad in a small motor and it can work and then not work. Motors are cheap.
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When the driver side sliding door lock stopped working on our 2001, I first checked that the pulses were making it to the motor wiring connection to make sure it was the motor that was bad, and not a broken wire (the wiring assembly moves with the door as it opens and closes). The easiest and cheapest fix for me was to buy an aftermarket door lock actuator, bolt it to the door, connect it to the lock-rod, and splice the wires to the existing wires going to the original actuator. Total costs was $5.00 and about 45 minutes of work. It's been working fine since I did the work 12 months ago.
I had a picture of it, but can't find it now. If it will help someone out, I can pull the panel and take another shot of it. If you want to see what type of actuator I used, go to Amazon and search for 'door lock actuator', and look for the ones that are $4.98. I used the teal green one. It has a powerful kick, so the mounting has to be secure. |
06 powerstroke--you have a good heart and willing to go the distance. you were willing to take off door panel to take pics. I don't have bad one but notice a helpful person and had to acknowledge it.
i can hardly believe that a door lock actuator is only 5 bucks. i will have to look at the cite to see what that includes. i put one in a ford focus for brother n law summer time. i put the whole aparatus in which was 90 bucks. thanks for the good heart. |
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