Try disconnecting the vacuum line to your EGR first and plug it at the manifold. I've had mine disconnected for about 5 weeks now and have had no stalls whatsoever https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...n-slowing.html. Previously it was stalling 3-4 times a week. I suspect it wasn't closing properly or fast enough when transitioning to an idle. I just picked up a replacement and will install it before my e-test in March. Mind you, I must admit that the increased responsiveness is rather nice!

 

[quote=e h donahey;1970724]Hey folks:


I have read a bunch of posts and am not sure what a PCM is? That
PCM sounds like the culprit or possibly the batt connection? This is my daily driver and until last Saturday it has been a great 4 wheeled vehicle.

Can't necessarily help with the specific problem but PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module, otherwise known as your car's computer. Your not knowing that points to a common failure in internet communication. We want to get the information out so quickly that we assume the readers will understand the particular expression/jargon that is being used. Fortunately will usually find the answer quickly. I wa pretty sure I knew the meaning when I saw your post, but did a quick check to get the full explanation.

 

I posted months back on the same thread re: the cleaning of the TB as one of many methods to help prevent the issue of intermittent stalling.

The issue described just recently of 'micro stalling' is best diagnosed through engine codes, if and when the check engine light comes on. But to get it to this point is risky and potentially costly if the stalling is occurring yet the check engine light is not activated. Point here is, source and fix the issue before the chain and cascade of problems occur.

From the information provided, the story is a common one of the caravan stalling.
I would check the EGR, and get that replaced. Here in Canada, they are about 200 dollars (last time I checked) at the dealer. Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) is the way to do, in this case, MOPAR.

If the EGR is the issue. then replace completely. If you have the know how, you could clean it with TB cleaner and put back and re-test..... Also, I would suggest motovac'ing your car, and checking the engine air filter (replace if necessary). (DO NOT DO THIS USING MR LUBE's fuel injector cleaning service). Do motovac at a reputable shop.

I would also change the spark plugs after the motovac, using MOPAR spark plugs, and change the spark plug wires (wires, if required via a voltage test).

With that in mind, start using synthetic oils. I use MOBIL 1 5-W30, with -40 degree situations for winter start up (ie. killer on the engine and deposit build up). As a side point, even though I have one, I don't use the engine block heater since I am convinced MOBIL 1 will still flow freely in the coldest Canadian 2010 winter). Advantages are lower sludge, better flow, and less carbon build up by way of using the synthetic oil. This equates to less carbon crap with in and around your EGR, spark plugs, and overall, engine.

Bottom Line: replacement of the EGR is a joke all the way through. Easy DYI... although the dealer charges an arm and a leg.... if you can screw a bolt, you can put on the EGR.
Just my two cents.

 

Hey thanks for all the advice! I really only thought people would help with info not give some info and with hold other info..... So those that have genuinely helped I thank you once again.


I talked with my friend with the scanner and reported back your answers, he agreed clean the EGR first ($80 to replace). Change plugs/wires/airfilter just because it probably needs it and it can only help the engine run better.. To replace the PCM is $180, that is a last ditch effort if needed.

If you have some sort of problem with a person simply asking for help/guidance maybe YOU need to seek help! Pay it forward.
..

 

Started off with the intermittent stall issues like talked about here but has graduated to a no start problem. I have tested the starter and battery both are good. Someone said it could be a pcm rollover switch but idk where that could be. no check engine light. tried doing the trouble codes with ignition key cycle but no codes given. any ideas?

 

Welcome to DF
Do you know if you spark and fuel pressure?

 

well thats what im chasing right now. apparently the IPM is not giving power to the ignition relay switch which stops power to starter, fuel pump, and no spark... im currently chasing a short somewhere initially thought it was just the ignition switch but now im not 100% convinced thats the issue I think I have a short somewhere...

 

Two places that has been a problem is under the battery and the wire harness running along the rear cylinder head and power steering.

 

thanks I will look into that and get back with you with the results

 

there is the wire from the ignition switch i think its point #5 violet/blue wire that blows fuses when I try to do a continuity check on it... cant figure out why either...