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I think you hit upon the key issue. We've been experiencing the ongoing issue of the dead Instrument Cluster. Previously, we'd been using the work-around of whacking the side of the center console just near the AC controls. After reading in this forum and on about half-a-dozen others on the same topics, there seemed to be a trend of poor connectivity of a ground theme running. Also last time I'd dug in to it I had checked & and re-soldered the mount point on the main cluster. There were no apparent cold joints and I was dreading having to tear down to the main cluster to get to it. Since it seemed sensitive to the climate control center, I spent a bit more time exploring today. There were no visible cold joints there either PLUS there was some kind of gummy substance all over the PC board. Not sure if it was intended to deaden vibration or protect or what...but it was put there at manufacture. It would make it challenging to re-solder those joints. Upon further examination, I noticed some questionable discolorations on the control board. Originally Posted by thaddy1978
...wouldn't be a good thing to happen for those who drink coffee on their way to work!!
Low and behold there were at least two pins were clearly heating up--and heating a lot. Also, there was some kind of build up on the connection side too--almost like oxidation or a glaze. Then I went back to the harness and WOW that plug had those same two pins clearly hot enough to melt and disfigure the shape of the plug to where those pins had shifted slightly from the intended position. THEN the pieces fit together. It was coffee! Coffee had spilled into the control panel and the creamy-sugary mix wicked it's way in and crystallized onto the connections--building up enough of a layer to cause the resistance of the connection to elevate to where temperatures would melt plastic. Eventually, it could not make contact. At least that is the story I'm sticking to. :-)
Polished the contacts with a nail file and pinched the plug connections and reassembled to where everything works just like it should now. Good call--spilling coffee was the key--due to lunging or not!
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My wife and I had the same issue. The dash would go dead whenever it felt like t... smack the dash and bam, it was back on. We recently moved from Kansas to Pennsylvania, and its been much wetter. Well now the dash has quit completely. Smacked it, the needles jumped, but still dead. Also the digital display in the dash, odometer, and gear display are digital, andvtge digital display on the ceiling. We smacked it again and the speedometer needle fell out! But still nothing else... help! Dodge tells me it. An approximate 1000$ fix...
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Help? Much easier if we had the model year.Originally Posted by ChipLinn
My wife and I had the same issue. The dash would go dead whenever it felt like t... smack the dash and bam, it was back on. We recently moved from Kansas to Pennsylvania, and its been much wetter. Well now the dash has quit completely. Smacked it, the needles jumped, but still dead. Also the digital display in the dash, odometer, and gear display are digital, andvtge digital display on the ceiling. We smacked it again and the speedometer needle fell out! But still nothing else... help! Dodge tells me it. An approximate 1000$ fix...
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As the forum says. 99 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN.Originally Posted by Cougar41
Help? Much easier if we had the model year.
Record Breaker
ChipTurner - Stating a model year in a subject line 4 years ago sure doesn't mean we can take it for granted ChipLinn also has a 99GC. Anyone can post regarding any model year van as long as it pertains to the original problem posted by the original poster meaning an inoperative instrument cluster. That's why the regulars here and on any forum need to confirm the owners model year if the person posting hasn't included it in their post as they should. That, plus in ChipLinn's circumstance, the model year makes a huge difference. The problem and fix is very common to 3rd generation vans, not 4th or 5th gen vans.
ChipLinn - As I said, you have a very common problem and luckily there is a very common fix that was eluded to throughout this thread. Oh and hey, it's free. This video makes it clear:
While you have it out access the face of the speedo and push the needle back on. To test it hold both trip ***** in on the cluster then turn the key to on (not start). The cluster will start a test cycle within seconds. The speedo will cycle to 4 readings 20, 60, 100 mph and back to zero. If it's off reset the needle. Good luck.
ChipLinn - As I said, you have a very common problem and luckily there is a very common fix that was eluded to throughout this thread. Oh and hey, it's free. This video makes it clear:
While you have it out access the face of the speedo and push the needle back on. To test it hold both trip ***** in on the cluster then turn the key to on (not start). The cluster will start a test cycle within seconds. The speedo will cycle to 4 readings 20, 60, 100 mph and back to zero. If it's off reset the needle. Good luck.