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timing cover coolant leak - how hard to fix?

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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #31  
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beeworth65
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Default Reply To Cooling Leak On Dodge Grand Caravan 2000

I love the comfort and ride of my old Dodge Grand Caravan 2000. So it is with dismay and sorrow that I realize I might have to give her up due to a suspected event.

My white coolant container is dry and that means something is amiss.

I think the thermostat is functioning properly, yet my wife has complained of the heater not throwing out heat soon enough.

I don't have the patience to fix an expensive problem such as gasket removal et cetera even though I might theoretically have the ability, and I am not really willing to put out thousands of dollars...

Guess I'll go to my garage this morning put some green stuff or water in and start doing some minor detective work on loose fittings and garage floor evidence, if any.

Wish me luck and God's blessing.

beeworth65
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #32  
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Default Timing Cover coolant leak

I have a 1999 Dodge caravan 3.3L V-6 with a coolant leak right below the thermastat between the engine and the timing cover. Most likely a blown O-ring. Yes? Now how hard is it to fix and will there be a need to drain the oil as well as the coolant?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 02:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rbarrett408
I have a 1999 Dodge caravan 3.3L V-6 with a coolant leak right below the thermastat between the engine and the timing cover. Most likely a blown O-ring. Yes? Now how hard is it to fix and will there be a need to drain the oil as well as the coolant?
nobody got back to u about it? Did u find problem? I might have same.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2020 | 03:28 AM
  #34  
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Yes, please send them over. Thank you.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 01:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mfahey
This is from Alldata although the pictures don't come through using copy and paste.
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain cooling system.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Drain engine oil.
Remove right wheel and inner splash shield.
Remove oil pan.
Remove oil pick-up tube (Fig. 149).
Remove accessory. drive belt.
Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
Remove crankshaft vibration damper.
Remove radiator lower hose.
Remove heater hose from timing chain cover housing (Fig. 150) or water pump inlet tube (if engine oil cooler equipped) (Fig. 151).
Remove the right side engine mount.
Remove idler pulley from engine bracket (Fig. 152).
Remove the engine mount bracket (Fig. 152).
Remove cam sensor from timing chain cover (Fig. 152).
Remove the water pump for cover removal clearance.
Remove the bolt attaching the power steering pump support strut to the front cover (Fig. 153).
Remove the timing chain cover (Fig. 154).

INSTALLATION
Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Crankshaft oil seal must be removed to insure correct oil pump engagement. NOTE: DO NOT USE SEALER ON COVER GASKET
Position new gasket on timing cover (Fig. 154). Adhere new gasket to chain case cover, making sure that the lower edge of the gasket is flush to 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) passed the lower edge of the cover.
Rotate crankshaft so that the oil pump drive flats are in the vertical position.
Position oil pump inner rotor so the mating flats are in the same position as the crankshaft drive flats (Fig. 154). CAUTION: Make sure the oil pump Is engaged on the crankshaft correctly or severe damage may result.
Install timing cover (Fig. 154).
Install timing chain cover bolts. Tighten M8 bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) and M10 bolts to 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 155).
Install crankshaft front oil seal.
Install water pump and pulley.
Install crankshaft vibration damper.
Install engine mount bracket (Fig. 152) and tighten M10 to 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) , M8 bolt to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.) .
Install idler pulley on engine mount bracket (Fig. 152).
Install right side engine mount.
Install camshaft sensor.
Connect the heater return hose at rear of timing chain cover (Fig. 150) or at water pump inlet tube (if engine oil cooler equipped) (Fig. 151).
Connect the radiator lower hose.
Install A/C compressor.
Install accessory drive belt.
Install oil pump pick-up tube with new O-ring. Tighten attaching bolt to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) .
Install oil pan.
Install inner splash shield and right front wheel.
Fill crankcase with engine oil to proper level.
Fill cooling system.
Connect negative cable to battery.
I already performed everything in the very same order as described here on my own, I couldn't find anything on YouTube for this process with the motor in the vehicle( there's plenty of jeep engine timing cover replacement video's and the motors are similar). I originally was replacing the water pump and three of the bolts snapped off in the cover on the first turn even after spraying penetrating oil on them and leaving them overnight and spraying again the next day and leaving it again. I think they were rusted out because the engine cover is missing in the wheel well. I also question the idea of screwing steel bolts into aluminum but whatever.So tapping them out was impossible because there is sero space for tools, so I decided it was easier to pull the cover off a spare motor I and and replace it with the one in the vehicle. I'm now not so sure this was the best idea but it's too late for that. I'm at the point of re-installing the cover and getting the oil pump on the drive shaft and keeping the gasket in place is extremely challenging. Anybody have any suggestions on this matter ? I don't want to screw this up and destroy the oil pump or end up with a leak. I have been told NOT to use sealant on the gasket to hold it in place. Is this so ?
 
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