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Help with parking brake cable that connects to the release handle
#1
07-17-2009, 01:00 PM
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Help with parking brake cable that connects to the release handle
I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan.
When i push the parking brake pedal it does not click/lock and hold the parking brake. When I pull the parking brake release lever it was very slack.
I removed the underpanel and noticed that the parking brake release cable was not attached to anything...well it is attached to the handle, but the cable is only 1 foot long and was not attached to anything.
Where does that cable connect to and will that make the parking brake work at that point?
When pushing the parking brake pedal i feel resistance, but it does not lock down.
Any help is appreciated.
When i push the parking brake pedal it does not click/lock and hold the parking brake. When I pull the parking brake release lever it was very slack.
I removed the underpanel and noticed that the parking brake release cable was not attached to anything...well it is attached to the handle, but the cable is only 1 foot long and was not attached to anything.
Where does that cable connect to and will that make the parking brake work at that point?
When pushing the parking brake pedal i feel resistance, but it does not lock down.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
07-18-2009, 04:00 PM
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Location: Poquoson, VA
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#3
06-11-2012, 11:41 PM
Brake Release Cable Disconnected 1998 Caravan
On my 1998 Dodge Caravan, while doing the instrument cluster solder repair to get dash gauges working, the Parking Brake Release Cable Disconnected. This is how to get it reconnected.
The parking brake release handle has a short 10" cable that connects to a small channeled stamp pressed sheat metal lever approximately 2 1/2" long. The handle release end of the cable is attached to a mating part to the handle and is attached well so shouldn't separate. This cable end has a metal conmector similar to a bicycle cable but wider. The other end of the cable has a metal connector that is cylindracle and runs parallel to the wire. This connector has a shiny black rubber sheath that slides on over the end connector, it can come off so be careful you may find it on the floor below it is about the size of the exposed lead end of a 22 caliber long rifle bullet or like a gel viamin capsule. This piece may be crucial to avoid the cable flopping out of the channelled lever when you are installing the cable as it provides some resistance as you just push this into the bottom channeled part of the lever then bring the cable up so the wire is
directed into a thin slot on the top of the lever. But there are a few points that you will need to do before you get to this point.
First when you put the cable through with the handle release inserted through the plastic under-panel the cable needs to be routed so it is as far to the left side sheet metal and a couple other wires or cables that are in this vicinity. I didn't use a light and didn't actually get a clear view of things when I got it right but previosly I had gotten a good look at the cable mounting grommet support and somewhat of a view of the lever. Once you have located the sheet metal mounting bracket on the left side about an inch above and to the left and a bit back toward door opening, in relation to the lever, you will see where the rubber collar grommet on the end of outside of cable mounts. You have the cable routed correctly when you can direct the plastic outer cable and push it easily into the metal
grommet mount. At this point the rubber sheathed end will be allighned with the channeled lever release arm. So next push the rubber sheathed end of the cable into the channel of the bottom of the lever. Then bring the cable upward so that the wire goes into the thin slot on the top of the lever. Once you have it in it will stay in place likely because of the snug fit of the rubber sheathed cable end. Now back to the cable you need to push it back into the open side of the metal grommet mount and working with the handle end of canble, move it slightly so the rubber collar at the end of outside of cable slides onto the metal mount in the collars center groove. When you have it alighned right and you push the collar into place you will feel a snap when it correctly seats.
Now the last hurdle is to get the handle end of the cable seated properly with the handle through the plastic under-panel. I put the panel somewhat into it's place and put the screw half way in on the passenger side of the panel so it stays close to where it needs to be but allows some movement panel at handle side.
Pull the cable grabbing it with a small needle nose. Pull it out, hold it out with other hand thumb and finger sliding needle nose up and holding wire cable extended (released position... doesn't take a lot of force to pull the wire cable out). Now I bent the cable end into a "C" position so the end will slide into the hole and having cable up to accomplish this. When it is correctly in place slowly let loose of the cable with needle nose and the wire will retract into position. Now you can carefully put the plastic panel in place and secure it with it's 5 screws. Test the release with brake on and if working properly which it should be you did the job successfully.
Also if you should ever have a cable break with parking break activated, you now know where the release lever is underneath so you will know how to release the brake by reaching up and using your fingers to raise the lever.
On my 1998 Dodge Caravan, while doing the instrument cluster solder repair to get dash gauges working, the Parking Brake Release Cable Disconnected. This is how to get it reconnected.
The parking brake release handle has a short 10" cable that connects to a small channeled stamp pressed sheat metal lever approximately 2 1/2" long. The handle release end of the cable is attached to a mating part to the handle and is attached well so shouldn't separate. This cable end has a metal conmector similar to a bicycle cable but wider. The other end of the cable has a metal connector that is cylindracle and runs parallel to the wire. This connector has a shiny black rubber sheath that slides on over the end connector, it can come off so be careful you may find it on the floor below it is about the size of the exposed lead end of a 22 caliber long rifle bullet or like a gel viamin capsule. This piece may be crucial to avoid the cable flopping out of the channelled lever when you are installing the cable as it provides some resistance as you just push this into the bottom channeled part of the lever then bring the cable up so the wire is
directed into a thin slot on the top of the lever. But there are a few points that you will need to do before you get to this point.
First when you put the cable through with the handle release inserted through the plastic under-panel the cable needs to be routed so it is as far to the left side sheet metal and a couple other wires or cables that are in this vicinity. I didn't use a light and didn't actually get a clear view of things when I got it right but previosly I had gotten a good look at the cable mounting grommet support and somewhat of a view of the lever. Once you have located the sheet metal mounting bracket on the left side about an inch above and to the left and a bit back toward door opening, in relation to the lever, you will see where the rubber collar grommet on the end of outside of cable mounts. You have the cable routed correctly when you can direct the plastic outer cable and push it easily into the metal
grommet mount. At this point the rubber sheathed end will be allighned with the channeled lever release arm. So next push the rubber sheathed end of the cable into the channel of the bottom of the lever. Then bring the cable upward so that the wire goes into the thin slot on the top of the lever. Once you have it in it will stay in place likely because of the snug fit of the rubber sheathed cable end. Now back to the cable you need to push it back into the open side of the metal grommet mount and working with the handle end of canble, move it slightly so the rubber collar at the end of outside of cable slides onto the metal mount in the collars center groove. When you have it alighned right and you push the collar into place you will feel a snap when it correctly seats.
Now the last hurdle is to get the handle end of the cable seated properly with the handle through the plastic under-panel. I put the panel somewhat into it's place and put the screw half way in on the passenger side of the panel so it stays close to where it needs to be but allows some movement panel at handle side.
Pull the cable grabbing it with a small needle nose. Pull it out, hold it out with other hand thumb and finger sliding needle nose up and holding wire cable extended (released position... doesn't take a lot of force to pull the wire cable out). Now I bent the cable end into a "C" position so the end will slide into the hole and having cable up to accomplish this. When it is correctly in place slowly let loose of the cable with needle nose and the wire will retract into position. Now you can carefully put the plastic panel in place and secure it with it's 5 screws. Test the release with brake on and if working properly which it should be you did the job successfully.
Also if you should ever have a cable break with parking break activated, you now know where the release lever is underneath so you will know how to release the brake by reaching up and using your fingers to raise the lever.
