fuel injection
#11
i need to verify the year as i can't tell it is so hacked up that it is unreconizable exept that it still has the double headlight but i don't know when the stoped those for the other style. i did not mean to insault anyone i only said what i read, but the sticker on the underside of the hood says it was 3L so mabey the year is wrong,
#13
#14
I knew it. C is a 2.2 carburated engine. G is 1986. so there goes the credibility of your v-6 engine change to carburated 2.2 hack job story.
the 3L under the hood, ever think that maybe the hood was replaced at some time in it's life. I bet if you look at the emissions sticker and it says 3L, you'll probably find the year is 87-88-89-90. The only reason I got on your case it you insulted me with the 3.0 and 3.3 comment. This statement proved to me that you are not well educated in minivans.86 was the last year for the dual headlights. 87 was single light. composit on the regular vans and glass bulb for the cargo vans.
the 3L under the hood, ever think that maybe the hood was replaced at some time in it's life. I bet if you look at the emissions sticker and it says 3L, you'll probably find the year is 87-88-89-90. The only reason I got on your case it you insulted me with the 3.0 and 3.3 comment. This statement proved to me that you are not well educated in minivans.86 was the last year for the dual headlights. 87 was single light. composit on the regular vans and glass bulb for the cargo vans.
Last edited by 92dak5.24x4; 11-24-2009 at 06:13 PM.
#15
i appologize if i insulted you. i did not mean too. i can see where alot of parts have been changed. and no i did not know when they stoped making the double head lights. anyway i have decided to keep it carberated as i got it working much better now. however i need a wiring diagram fo it as half the wiring under the hood has been removed and my gages don't work properly like my tach don't operate and the oil pressure, nor water temp work. so any help would be much apriciated.
#16
Get a shop manual. then you'll have all that information. As for the headlights, you also didn't know when the 3.0 and the 3.3 came out either but you dis'd me for knowing the facts about this too. So in a matter of 6 hours you went from no fire to got it running pretty good? Wow,you're more mechanically inclined than I gave you credit for. Now if only you and that other guy could actually spell.
Back when these carburated vans came out, the original carb was junk from the get-go. Replacing it with a Weber DGV carb made a world of difference and increased Hp.
Back when these carburated vans came out, the original carb was junk from the get-go. Replacing it with a Weber DGV carb made a world of difference and increased Hp.
Last edited by 92dak5.24x4; 11-24-2009 at 10:32 PM.
#17
i have the haynes manual but it does not contain any of the wiring i need to fix. as the wiring is why it had no spark nothing is as it should be. and i can spell but i am usually in a hurry when typing as i don't have a lot of time. as for the carb it is not the original for the engine it is still a holy but it is the better one.
#18
How do you know the carb isn't original? HOLLEY is the type of carb on there from the factory. The van carbs were better than the car versions from the start as the van's did not have the electronic control on the power valve. The factory Holley carb is actually a Weber design. But they are so detuned to meet emissions. as for shop manual, My Haynes manual has the wiring diagrams in chapter12 including all the wiring diagrams for under the hood. So how did you fix the wiring so it had spark? Sounds like you don't even need a manual since you said you got it running better now.
#19
actually the more i look into it the more it seems that it is the stander one for the engine. but a good clean up got it working much better. as for the diagrams in the manual it does not show me the the wiring for all the sensors and such, which is the only reason i need them as the coolant temp don't work nor the oil pressure. as for the spark yes i got it working but the wiring for it is incorrect as they don't look right. and have been cut and rewired. and i can't make heads or tails of the wires due to the fact many have been removed all together.
#20
Seems everytime I call you on the weird statements, you change your story. I looked at my Haynes manual in chapter 12 and to me it's crystal clear to the wiring for the sensors and such. I even found, in this book, how to test the oil pressure and coolant temp guages. I'm going to stop posting, the flip-flops you make on every post when I catch your untruths has me believing your just playing games. I doubt anyone can be of any assistance to this screwed up, cobbled mess.