Tizzy1 and others DIY information
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Post #37 - what a great writeup! I just registered on this forum so I could tell you that! Every step was precisely what I needed to do to remove the cowl on my 2002 Dodge GC - I am replacing the O2 sensor and I couldn't have done it without this! Thank you!
Amateur
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 47
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Draining the fuel tank.
This applies to 3.3 L engines. May apply to 3.0 and 3.8 as well, but since I don't have one, am not sure. Used the procedures outlined here on a 2002 model. Whether it works on others, I am not sure, but expect so on similar model years (although which pin position to apply power to in step 6 may differ).
As I learned the hard way recently, you cannot get a siphon hose into the tank as it is screened off. So, in an effort to return useful knowledge to the community, I wanted to convey a way to drain the tank without siphoning. This will only work if the pump is at least marginally working, but will take awhile and can drain the battery down if you have a lot of fuel to move or the pump is very weak:
1. Remove fuel pressure relief valve cover.
2. Using an appropriate tool - hemostats in my case - remove the schrader valve from fuel pressure relief valve housing.
3. Attach appropriate hose to fuel pressure relief valve housing and secure with clamp - CAREFUL not to crush the valve housing or threads.
4. Run line to another vehicle's tank or appropriately sized fuel container (placed on ground).
5. Remove fuel pump relay from IPM (fuse box in engine compartment).
6. Run a wire from positive battery terminal to pin receiver 86 of fuel pump relay position in IPM and watch fuel pump out! No need to have the key on as this bypasses the entire system and applies 12v directly to the pump.
7. Reinstall schrader valve, making sure it is seated correctly and snug. Reinstall fuel pump relay. Once up and running again, check for leaks with cap off - don't want fuel leaking into a hot, electrically active engine compartment!
Although I have not confirmed it, I suspect it may be possible to use these procedures with a substituted (step 3) pump-operated siphon - either manual or drill driven - to drain a tank with a completely dead fuel pump. If so, steps 5 and 6 would be unnecessary.
As I learned the hard way recently, you cannot get a siphon hose into the tank as it is screened off. So, in an effort to return useful knowledge to the community, I wanted to convey a way to drain the tank without siphoning. This will only work if the pump is at least marginally working, but will take awhile and can drain the battery down if you have a lot of fuel to move or the pump is very weak:
1. Remove fuel pressure relief valve cover.
2. Using an appropriate tool - hemostats in my case - remove the schrader valve from fuel pressure relief valve housing.
3. Attach appropriate hose to fuel pressure relief valve housing and secure with clamp - CAREFUL not to crush the valve housing or threads.
4. Run line to another vehicle's tank or appropriately sized fuel container (placed on ground).
5. Remove fuel pump relay from IPM (fuse box in engine compartment).
6. Run a wire from positive battery terminal to pin receiver 86 of fuel pump relay position in IPM and watch fuel pump out! No need to have the key on as this bypasses the entire system and applies 12v directly to the pump.
7. Reinstall schrader valve, making sure it is seated correctly and snug. Reinstall fuel pump relay. Once up and running again, check for leaks with cap off - don't want fuel leaking into a hot, electrically active engine compartment!
Although I have not confirmed it, I suspect it may be possible to use these procedures with a substituted (step 3) pump-operated siphon - either manual or drill driven - to drain a tank with a completely dead fuel pump. If so, steps 5 and 6 would be unnecessary.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Thanks for the writeup. I can see how draining the tank might be a problem given the screen, but isn't using the fuel pump to drain it a long slow process, and mightn't it risk burning out the pump to operate it continuously for so long? I wonder how they do it at professional shops - or if there perhaps is a plug on the bottom of the tank for this purpose?
Amateur
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Thanks for the writeup. I can see how draining the tank might be a problem given the screen, but isn't using the fuel pump to drain it a long slow process, and mightn't it risk burning out the pump to operate it continuously for so long? I wonder how they do it at professional shops - or if there perhaps is a plug on the bottom of the tank for this purpose?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
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As far as I know, there are no drains on these tanks - at least not model year 2002 and similar. As for burning out the pump, I don't think that is likely since once the vehicle is started the pump should be constantly running. I am not 100% on that, but I believe that passive "suction" instead of active pumping would be insufficient to maintain fuel pressure to a running engine: thus, the pump would be constantly active until the vehicle is shut off.
I use to work at took two people use a shop vac. On the fill with your hands around it to make a seal and pull the fuel line from the tank. The fuel stays in the tank till you turn off the vac ^_^
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2013
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05 Dodge Caravan No Driver Heat
Hello,
We have no heat on the driver side. Yes, heat on the passenger and in the rear. We know the the rear heat is separate. But when it is really cold it does not feel like any heat at all while driving. The driver front is blowing cold air.
We checked the hoses they are both extremely hot. We did the A/C Heater Control Calibration and it failed. Is there anything way to get a diagram as to how to look to see if the damper door is operating? We were able to use our local library website for autos but it is now limited. Or other website with diagrams. Thanks any thoughts or considerations would be appreciated.
E.D.
We have no heat on the driver side. Yes, heat on the passenger and in the rear. We know the the rear heat is separate. But when it is really cold it does not feel like any heat at all while driving. The driver front is blowing cold air.
We checked the hoses they are both extremely hot. We did the A/C Heater Control Calibration and it failed. Is there anything way to get a diagram as to how to look to see if the damper door is operating? We were able to use our local library website for autos but it is now limited. Or other website with diagrams. Thanks any thoughts or considerations would be appreciated.
E.D.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
