Pin 1 and Pin 8 are 14 gauge, all the rest are 20 gauge.

 

I am dealing with the same issue with the lock being stuck in the locked position. How do I get it released so that I can inspect the wires?

FYI, I have not reviewed the video if the info is in there...

 

Can anyone help?

 

That was a great video. I will show it to my husband. There's just one problem - our door is locked (the sliding door behind the front passenger seat) permanently it seems - nothing we do will unlock it - so how do you get the door off to do this work on it? Just a few days ago the other sliding door starting acting up too - so soon we won't be able to use the back doors at all!

 

This is a picture of the latch and lock motor assembly. Not the greatest picture but will do. When the lock motor really grenades, it will not work power or manually. You will have to remove the door panel with the door closed (not too difficult) and then follow the lock rod to the latch (#3 in the picture). Disconnect the rod if you like but you need to grab the lever that it attaches to and rotate it to unlock the door, then you should be able to open it and remove the latch from the door.

 

Hello,

I had the same problems as mentioned above. I removed the door panel from the drivers side sliding door, removed the actuator and replaced.

My problem now is the door is stuck in the closed position and wont open. I press the button on the door to release the door mechaninsm, but nothing.

I unlock the door manually and have disconnected the actuator, but still nothing.

Does the door open manually even though there is no power to that actuator?

I cant see anything else that would have dislodged in the door to not allow it to open.

When I took the door apart, the door was working even with the actuaot out.

Thoughts?

 

Hi all!
Same issue with stuck sliding door lock. Couple questions please: 1) Has anyone fixed it back to functional? If so how hard and what parts are needed. 2) It would seem this is covered in the 5 yr warranty? Thoughts?
Thanks, Dave

 

I had the sliding door stuck in the locked position on the driver's side a year ago and had it repaired under an "extended warranty". They replaced the latch assembly at about $334 parts cost (5093405AC).

I now have the passenger side doing the same thing, but the warranty has expired. I am hoping it's just the motor took a crap but I would imagine if that was the case that the lock could be moved manually. However that is not the case so unless the motor really grenaded and bound itself up I suspect it is the latch assembly as well.

 

I have a 2004 DGC 3.8L that to date have not had an issue with the door lock being stuck. The issue I now have is that the driver power door will only open about 1 foot and stop. Thru much research it is the wires on the door flex loom that get damaged. I will be replacing that when it warms up. So if the power wire that moves the door could get damaged from the flexing then so could the power wire for the door lock. Just throwing that out there if you have no power at the door lock. There are many UTUBE video's for door lock replacements. Good luck with the repair.

 

I have the Same problem on my 2004 - I can not pull up the door lock **** - it is stuck in the down position and as STUPID AS IT SEEMS ! - It is a catch 22 situation ! -You need to open the sliding door first !! - in order that you can remove the door panel to get access to the Locking mechanisms - - - But the door is locked & will not Open - so I can not get the interior door panel off and that's pretty STUPID - !!! - Can anyone help with tis proble ??