there are 3 wires to the MAP sensor, 1 is 5v, 1 is ground and one is signal return to the pcm. in all the PCM slots not one has anything to do with IAT. your picture is ONLY for the 2.4 engine as it does have an IAT but the 3.3 does not. your posted picture is not correct. the part is the MAP sensor, the intake temp sensor is located on the driver side of the intake near the head

 

@ sapporo, I believe you are correct. From what I was reading elsewhere the other day, the MAP sensor would be the best place to check. Maybe brettj2408 is on to something, just not explaining it right. I've been away all weekend, but plan on doing that tomorrow. You mention the intake temp sensor. Should we also check this, you think?

I found some other replies online, maybe someone can comment on them?


The 2nd recommednation: to remove, clean and check is the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve and replace if necessary.

That code is for a cam sensor, I believe it's at the front right side of the engine (easy), I can dig up color codes for the wires if you like. I would change the crankshaft sensor as well, just because they are such a common problem. It's at the left rear in the bellhousing (hard).

Thanks to all of those who posted responses to my Code 23 issue. The P-Code I found that was the "real" problem and reason for my SES light being on Was P-403 which referenced the EGR valve. I used my Digital multimeter to test the resistance and it measured an infinite number. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the resistance should be 40-80 ohms approx. FYI I measured the new one I bought and it measured 37 ohms. Anyway I installed the part and the light is no longer on and it passed emissions until Jan '09. The EGR looked bad inside where the valve normally moves and this was indeed the problem. I've heard the EGR is a common point of failure on the 3.3L and 3.3L engines. Anyway, problem solved. Thanks again for the posts. They were very useful in narrowing the possibilities and making my fix easier

 

code 32 with cel blink is egr related problem

i've never heard of the egr going bad but i see a lot of the transducer controler failing which numerous posts on here have addressed over and over and over and over and over again

 

Hooked vehicle up to scanner today and the only code that came back was P0403 (MIL code is 32). According to Haynes, this is an open or shorted condition detected in the EGR transducer solenoid circuit.

Noting that this is a code 32 and not 23, which my display says, makes me wonder if the code should be read from right to left and not left to right? Is this possible? We have established that code 23 should not apply to a 3.3L since the part does not exist. Any thoughts on that?

Also, I had to drive vehicle 10 miles to get to scanner. Driving on the highway, I noticed that I could get up to speed limit, then hesitation would set in. I tried shutting off vehicle and coasting in neutral until I dropped back down to about 40MPH and started up and sped up again with no problems. After about 10-15 seconds, EVERY TIME, hesitation would start up again. Also did this when I got into town. Like clockwork, no matter speed, gear, etc., it was always after the 10-15 after restarting. Like something kicked in after a certain delay. Just wanted to throw that out there.

 

I give up. I spent so much time and effort with your code "23" I can't even think straight anymore

get a new egr valve/transducer assembly then see what happens

 

agreed.

 

LMAO! I feel you there! Drove me nuts for 2 weeks. Thanks for all the help. Just curious what the original poster figured out.

 

Code 23 is a no vehicle speed signal. For the powertrain stored codes. This is the old hex code the dodge used way back when.

 

I'm not overly sure what to do. The engine continues to be hard to start and it stumbles badly when I accelerate. It runs fine in a steady state. The engine needs new plugs and it's entirely possible I may have jumped the gun by chasing this code first, rather than replacing the plugs first. , so that's first.
If the plugs don't fix the problem... I see a sensor in the intake manifold. I'll pull it and see if I can
1) identify it,
2) clean it if it looks excessively gummed up,
3) check for a short
4) check the voltage supply to it.

If that doesn't do it, I'll start looking into the speed sensors, although the speedometer seems to be working fine.

That's about all I know for now.

 

speed sensors, that's a great idea put them in since as you speed up it acts up. probably toss in a new idle control valve, oxygen sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor, map sensor, coolant sensor, plugs, wires, coil pack, egr valve and transducer just to be safe.

i personlly like to connect a scanner and see what readings the computer sees.