With the Blue Moog Problem solvers. Still rumbled, so I replaced the driver side sway bar link today-still rumbles! Feels like it's under my feet. Wifey lost patience with me, so I'm going to do passenger side link tomorrow but somehow I dont believe that's going to solve the problem either. Usual rumble audible at low speeds...Driver side link felt OK before I cut it off with the Sawzall :>
What am I missing? What else could it be? I figured I couldn't go wrong starting with these components based on what folks on the board have said plus experience with one of our past GC.

2007 GC SXT Spring Special 73,000K. We live in NC, drive mostly long highway miles on smooth southern roads. I'm stumped. TIA! Wifey loves the car but says it makes noise like an old car..

 

Welcome to DF
Here is a TSB, but i don't know if this is the sound you are looking for.
SUBJECT:
Squeak / Creak or Tick Sound During Vehicle Operation
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves inspecting a tapping plate cage in the left front frame rail and making
modifications as required.
MODELS:
2007 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2007 (RS) Caravan/Town & Country
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some customers may experience a Squeak, Creak, or a Tick sound while driving their
vehicle. The sound may be noticed coming from the drivers side and may be interpreted as
a suspension sound since it is typically heard while driving.
DIAGNOSIS:
Sit in the vehicle with engine running, gear shift in park and foot off the brake. Rotate the
steering wheel from a full right to full left turn to load the engine cradle. While rotating the
steering wheel to the right and left, listen for the sound. If a sound is heard while loading
the engine cradle, shut the engine off, get out of the vehicle, and reach over the left tire
and insert one finger into the frame opening that contains the tapping plate assembly
(directly inside rectangular opening). Feel for interference between the rear tab of
the cage and the vertical box section of the rail. An inspection mirror may be used
to visually confirm the interference. If interference is noted or the rear tab is tight to the box
section, perform the Repair Procedure.
NOTE: With the vehicle sitting still, the sound may be more of a Pop as compared to
squeak, tick or click.
Fig. 1 TAPPING PLATE ACCESS OPENING
1 - FORWARD
2 - RECTANGULAR ACCESS OPENING (LEFT TIRE REMOVED FOR CLARITY)
CONFIGURATION INSIDE RAIL (PHANTOM VIEW)
1 - REAR TAB OF TAPPING PLATE CAGE
2 - RECTANGULAR WINDOW OUTER RAIL FACE
3 - FORWARD
4 - FRONT TAB OF TAPPING PLATE CAGE
5 - TAPPING PLATE ASSEMBLY
6 - PHANTOM VIEW THROUGH INNER RAIL FACE
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Small Pry Bar
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the left tire.
2. Using an appropriately sized pry bar, slip the pry bar into the opening. Slip the end of
the pry bar into the clearance between the front tab of the cage and outer skin. Work
the pry bar rearward between the rear tab of the cage and outer skin. Carefully
bend the rear tab inward (away from skin) to provide a 1 to 2 mm clearance between
the tab and skin.
NOTE: Only bend the tab enough to provide clearance to the outer skin. REAR TAB MODIFICATION
1 - PRY BAR INSERTED BETWEEN FRONT TAB AND RAIL (PHANTOM VIEW)
2 - WORK PRY BAR REARWARD BETWEEN REAR TAB AND RAIL (PHANTOM VIEW)
3 - BEND REAR TAB INWARD 1 TO 2 MM
3. Install the left tire, lower the vehicle and verify the sound is eliminated.

 

Wow, thanks for the quick reply and the TSB research! That may be the solution to the other noise I've had which I never thought I'd get close to solving. That one happens if you go over a large speedbump (when there is lots of suspension travel). We have them all over our neighborhood. Happens on the left side only. I'll check this out.
The sound I started out trying to eliminate is (I think) the sway bar link/bushing clunk/rattle. I was familiar with it because I had this on our 02 GC and the dealer fixed it for about $450. That car took a beating in the mountains and they went at around 35k... Also, this seems like the right place to start based on what I have read on the forums.
The sound on this current 07 is very similar to that on the 02 when going over small uneven ripples at low speeds, so I figured I'd try the link/bushing fix myself. Kind of a low rattle. Got the bushings and driver side link done but still hear/feel it. I'll be doing the passenger side link this coming weekend. Then I'll know for sure, it could still be the pass side making the racket and resonating.
The replacement bushings are definitely not allowing the bar or the brackets to rattle. I noticed that, even after the bushings were pulled into place while I tightened the brackets, there was a nice amount of compression on the bushing-enough to pull a good amount of tension on that mounting tab and grab the bar well-nice and snug all around.

The link I replaced on the driver side looked ok and didn't feel like there was too much play in either joint, so I may be replacing parts that still have some life left. I gather from the many posts on this that they wouldn't have lasted much longer anyway, so I won't have any regrets, unless Dodge decided to put much improved links into the 07 and now I'm needlessly trashing them :>

History:
Front pads, rotors replaced at 37K with AdaptiveOne Pads and NAPA Premium rotors. Still have lots of material on those pads at 73K and rotors are in great shape.
Steering rack, pump, hoses at 41K
Goodyear Comfortread Touring tires at 60K. Rotate and rebalance every 10K.

Rear pads and rotors after this project I think-can't imagine they'll go more than 75K as they are starting to squeal a little, but we'll see...

 

Do you have any picture of that procedure? Thanks Master Tech

 

Sorry no pictures.