Hello,
Ok so a week ago my wifes van started stalling and only starting if using the pedal. code came back o2 sensor, changed that and it runs better but not normal. I have been told to change the map sensor, even tho the code for that has not come up. Anyone have any ideas ? should i change this map sensor oram i wasting more money?

Also any idea were its located took a brief overview and could not find it . I know somewhere on intake manifold or so im guessing.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

when it first starts have to manually warm it up...while running at a normal 2500 rpms , if I let off gas pedal completly rpms drop staright to zero and engine dies.

 

IAC need a cleaning or Throttle body need a cleaning?
possibly the TPS

do you have any codes?
Heres MAP althogh I'm not leaning towards this
http://

 

Help us out with a little more info. Hard starting when cold or hot? The fact that it starts when pumping the pedal is usually a dead giveaway for a bad coolant temp sensor--especially if it happens with cold engine. If the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it really is, it provides too lean a mixture for cold starting. Goosing the pedal provides more fuel.

However, if this happens when hot, I'd follow hemi4spd's advice and clean throttle body and IAC. Also, a leaking fuel injector would cause hard starting when hot and goosing the pedal would let more air in. So try a can of Seafoam or Chevron TEchron fuel injector cleaner.

MAPs are not a high failure rate item on this vehicle (as far as I know). Stalling when decelerating to an idle and hard start when hot can also be a stuck EGR valve.

 

It has been really cold here since this started.

i changed the oygen sensor today at 1 o clock, it ran a little better . i have driven it for over two hours since then in all kinds of traffic , stopping and going and it runs bettr than it ever did.

I also have a question about the rpms.
What is normal rpm while idleing in park ?

it is running around 8000 in park ..were before i changed o2 sensor it was bogging down to 5-5500

 

hope u mean 800RPM and 5-550RPM at idle?

 

Yes I am sorry 800 rpm and 5- 550 rpm is what I meant.



*Update *


I drove the wife to work this morning,

I had to play with the gas pedal to start it , once started it idled at 600 rpms.

Drove about 4 miles with it idleing down to about 480 to 500 rpms if i let off the gas almost bogging out at times , but seem to catch itself

after the four miles or so , it would stay idle at 800 to 1000 rpms when i let off the pedal fully, never bogging down.

 

Ok so I ran the codes... got code 55 only , which means no codes.


It seems to start running fine after I drive it for 20 minutes or so.

 

ok
first thing have its codes read with a more modern scanner as 2 digit codes are OBDI
you should be looking for a P-code

I'd like to see what the what the TPS and IAC are saying
and have you cleaned out the IAC ports?

 

Gonna put it on computer this eveining. I cannot locate the iac? also I was told that this is a recurring problem on the 3.3 and that it is the electric egr transducer. any thoughts hemi?

 

IAC is located on the throttle body its what the computer uses to control idle when the throttle valve is closed.
when you remove it dont try moving the pintle(tip) dont twist it dont push/pull on it. Just clean it and the hole it sits in
while your there clean out the throttle body(behind the butterfly)

heres the IAC and TPS on the TB
http://